Feeler guage valve check

[Hendrixwannnabe1]

Hi there,

With my bike now off the road for over 2 months now because of the unbleedable front brakes, have made some improvement but still soft on the first few lever pumps then hardens up, i decided to check the valve clearances and TB sync as i dont know if it was ever done before.
2010 Super10 with 59000km.

I have disassembled to the point of being able to check the valve clearances and been following youtube tuts and service manual step by step.

My 2 questions are, how accurate do ya need to align the "T" up to do the checks?? Its quite tricky to know if it is pointing directly up for cylinder 2 and trying to judge if its level for cylinder 1 is just as tricky. Depending on what angle ya look at it will change how appears inside the hole. Is there any other secondary marks i can look for to confirm i am in the correct spot??

Second question is, how do i know what resistance in the feeler guage should i be aiming for? I can fit a couple different sizes into the gap, they all have varying levels of resistance to entering the gap and then moving the feeler back and forward gives varying degrees of resistance.
Is it suppose to be hard to push guage into gap or should it slide in easy??

My feelers go up in 0.025mm increments so i cant really get it exact.

My numbers so far have my intakes all on the limit for to tight and the exhusts are all to tight for sure. Assuming i measured them correct. Haha.

Any tips for what sort of feel i should be aiming for on the guages is much appreciated.

Cheers.
Dave.

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[whisperquiet]

This is a good tutorial.

Yamah Super Tenere Valve check, and adjustment, c/w top tip update

Well, I tore into it tonight. I was going to wait, but after reading, and re-reading the Yamaha manual, I decided to go and do it. I’ll get this out of the way first. This is a flat out ign…

thetenerist.wordpress.com

 

[Hendrixwannnabe1]

This is a good tutorial.

Yamah Super Tenere Valve check, and adjustment, c/w top tip update

Well, I tore into it tonight. I was going to wait, but after reading, and re-reading the Yamaha manual, I decided to go and do it. I’ll get this out of the way first. This is a flat out ign…

thetenerist.wordpress.com

In this writeup he talks about using a screwdriver in the plughole to help find TDC. But doesnt really explain what he is looking for. Do you know what he is actually doing there at all??

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[whisperquiet]

He puts the screwdriver in the spark plug hole of the left cylinder and watches it rise to the highest point which will be top dead center……I.e., the piston will be at the top of the stroke. It can then be confirmed by the crank timing marks.

 

[holligl]

Hi there,

With my bike now off the road for over 2 months now because of the unbleedable front brakes, have made some improvement but still soft on the first few lever pumps then hardens up...

My 2 questions are, how accurate do ya need to align the "T" up to do the checks?? Its quite tricky to know if it is pointing directly up for cylinder 2 and trying to judge if its level for cylinder 1 is just as tricky. Depending on what angle ya look at it will change how appears inside the hole...

Second question is, how do i know what resistance in the feeler guage should i be aiming for? I can fit a couple different sizes into the gap, they all have varying levels of resistance to entering the gap and then moving the feeler back and forward gives varying degrees of resistance...

For your first issue you might consider rebuilding the master cylinder, replacing the seals.

First question. When I did mine I removed the whole clutch cover, rather than just the hole plug. Many get by without replacing the gasket. It is much easier to see the alignment marks and turn the crank. Precision of the alignment probably not that critical given the crank rotates twice for one rotation of the cams.

Second question, just recognize you can force the valves open with the feeler gauge. You are trying to feel the gap without that additional resistance. You might upgrade your feeler gauge for greater precision.

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[WJBertrand]

Look for a set of Go/No Go gauges in 0.001” increments. Very handy and speeds up the work. For example if you have a 0.009”-0.011” feeler gauge and the thinner part fits easily/loosely but the thicker part does not, or requires force to insert, boom!, you know you’re at 0.010” without having to recheck with another gauge.


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[Hendrixwannnabe1]

Yes i think a set of smaller increment guages would be good. Anyone know where i can get some. Live in Australia. I have a set from supercheap but as stated the jump between each one makes it impossible to get accurate measurement. And combining two doesnt help as the measurments dont work out.?

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[Hendrixwannnabe1]

He puts the screwdriver in the spark plug hole of the left cylinder and watches it rise to the highest point which will be top dead center……I.e., the piston will be at the top of the stroke. It can then be confirmed by the crank timing marks.

Cool just what i was after. Now i can at least be sure im in the right spot.

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