Not really - she's an interesting case! She got her license in Edmonton, bought a 1981 440LTD for $1000, and bought her riding gear from St Vincent de Paul. It could actually be riding gear from the 60's! She has matching tassles on the handlebars, I'm not sure if they came with the bike or are farkles she added. I suspect they came with the bike, not sure her budget would extend to extra tassles... Then she left Edmonton, bound for Panama, without ever having ridden on a highway before. For a little girl she's pretty ballsy...terrysig said:
Escape from DC
- Thread starter dcstrom
- Start date
I agree!
horrible borders
Holy harrowing border crossings Batman! Two today... El Salvador/Honduras and Honduras/Nicaragua. Temps were 100F all day, but I remained cool... well actually I was sweating like a pig in the Klim while trying to figure out confusing border posts. Multiple offices, a stamp here, some copies there, back here, then a stamp on the copy, then go get a copy of the stamped copy, a tiny weeny ticket from this guy to give to another guy on the way out... on an on. I caved and got one of the "helpers" again. I should know better, last time they stung me for $45. I thought, having learned from that experience, it wouldn't happen again... I was wrong!
I think I figured out their MO though. At first I tell them to go away but they ignore me and just keep following. They wait until I'm standing there scratching my head at the confusing array of offices and shops and kids... then they point me in the right direction. What am I supposed to do, not go? So I do that step and he points me to the next one. In today's case he picked up a mistake by a girl at the vehicle import desk, so he did actually save me some time. But the game is to build trust in the early parts of the process, so that you're more likely to go along with the scam later.
This time the scam was a $35 "road tax" for Honduras - they took me to a nondescript office to pay where a guy "entered the number of my import document" into the computer so that "they would know at the other end that I'd paid". I told them it was BS but they insisted and in the end I just wanted to get out of there.
So I got screwed again. I did better on the Nicaragua side, except - I had to pay my first official bribe of the trip. The guy at the last gate before entering Nicaragua picked up that my registration was expired. Whatttt!!! But he was right, it expired in January. WHY would South Dakota only give me three months registration? And why hadn't I (or anyone else) noticed it before? So the guy pulls me aside to a quiet spot and in a low voice lays out what kind of trouble I could be in with no valid registration. I didn't get all of what he was saying but I DID get "20 dollars". I knocked him down to $15 but then I didn't have change so just gave him the $20. F*ck me, now I have to figure out how to get an "original" copy of new registration papers down here... I'm thinking a color scan and color printout will probably be passable, till I can get the real one mailed somewhere.
Holy harrowing border crossings Batman! Two today... El Salvador/Honduras and Honduras/Nicaragua. Temps were 100F all day, but I remained cool... well actually I was sweating like a pig in the Klim while trying to figure out confusing border posts. Multiple offices, a stamp here, some copies there, back here, then a stamp on the copy, then go get a copy of the stamped copy, a tiny weeny ticket from this guy to give to another guy on the way out... on an on. I caved and got one of the "helpers" again. I should know better, last time they stung me for $45. I thought, having learned from that experience, it wouldn't happen again... I was wrong!
I think I figured out their MO though. At first I tell them to go away but they ignore me and just keep following. They wait until I'm standing there scratching my head at the confusing array of offices and shops and kids... then they point me in the right direction. What am I supposed to do, not go? So I do that step and he points me to the next one. In today's case he picked up a mistake by a girl at the vehicle import desk, so he did actually save me some time. But the game is to build trust in the early parts of the process, so that you're more likely to go along with the scam later.
This time the scam was a $35 "road tax" for Honduras - they took me to a nondescript office to pay where a guy "entered the number of my import document" into the computer so that "they would know at the other end that I'd paid". I told them it was BS but they insisted and in the end I just wanted to get out of there.
So I got screwed again. I did better on the Nicaragua side, except - I had to pay my first official bribe of the trip. The guy at the last gate before entering Nicaragua picked up that my registration was expired. Whatttt!!! But he was right, it expired in January. WHY would South Dakota only give me three months registration? And why hadn't I (or anyone else) noticed it before? So the guy pulls me aside to a quiet spot and in a low voice lays out what kind of trouble I could be in with no valid registration. I didn't get all of what he was saying but I DID get "20 dollars". I knocked him down to $15 but then I didn't have change so just gave him the $20. F*ck me, now I have to figure out how to get an "original" copy of new registration papers down here... I'm thinking a color scan and color printout will probably be passable, till I can get the real one mailed somewhere.
Re: horrible borders
While the mordida is expected in a lot of the world, it sure is a pain in the ass guessing game.
Of course, in the US with an expired tag you would be walking now. Period.
So is there somebody you know in South Dakota? Or a forum member? Somebody who could walk the paper thru DMV and FedEx to you?
While the mordida is expected in a lot of the world, it sure is a pain in the ass guessing game.
Of course, in the US with an expired tag you would be walking now. Period.
So is there somebody you know in South Dakota? Or a forum member? Somebody who could walk the paper thru DMV and FedEx to you?
dcstrom said:
I have been in contact with Altrider and they are taking care of me.dcstrom said:
Thanks again for the photo that lead me to inspect my rack.
Yes I emailed Jeremy too and he offered to send me a replacement for my cracked part. Not necessary, I'd already had 2lbs of extra alloy welded into mine! Besides, shipping it down here would cost silly money.simmons1 said:
They have a 2nd generation luggage rack now and it seems that they will replace parts for anyone with a 1st gen rack that has problems. Good guys.
http://www.altrider.com/altrider-luggage-rack-for-yamaha-super-tenere-xt1200z/pcid/625-14
If I was doing it over again - looking for a rack which 99% of the time would be carrying a topbox - I think I would get a steel one. I considered the H&B steel rack, built like a tank and weighed a ton, but probably would survive the apocalypse. The big advantage of the Altrider, apart from less wieght, is that it has much more surface area - better for carrying soft luggage. Which I'm not doing...
Maybe... but they don't have a thing for me! It's interesting, I have kind of an awkward relationship with my fellow travelers. When staying in hostels, most of the travelers are young backpackers, and since I'm not really part of their peer group (being 30 years older and riding a motorcycle sets me apart), I feel almost invisible sometimes. Pity, I think it would be interesting to talk to some of the kids (if not drunk or stoned) and maybe they could even learn something from me? But it doesn't happen very often. I find the locals MUCH friendlier.NittanyXT said:
NittanyXT
New Member
I know what you mean, Trevor, I have that problem with my son!
Re: horrible borders
bribe going into Nicaragua
I tried to get two years sot that I wouldn't have to go through this song and dance again in the near future, but the maximum is one year at a time.
Yes, here's how the bribe went down. I bet the guy didn't know I was going to make him famous! I was an idiot for not knowing my registration had expired, but he could have said "look, you are going to have a problem with this" and I would have tipped him for letting me know. Maybe not $20, but still... I'd already been though the process and I don't think it's actually his job to go back and check the original docs, just to make sure I haven't missed any part of the process. But if he checks docs, he occasionally comes up with an error like mine, and can extract a fee.Checkswrecks said:
bribe going into Nicaragua
Yes! The lovely Terri at my mailing service is half a block from the court house, and she renewed the registration today, and sent via UPS to Managua. I'll collect on Monday or Tuesday. It's annoying - a) that I didn't realise I only had 3 months registration, and b) that South Dakota (or Madison at least) only gives you 3 months by default. I guess it might have something to do with having a large population of people living hand-to-mouth? In DC you get a year by default, 6 months if you ask for it. But it's such a small amount of money, $31 for the year, that even quite poor people wouldn't bother with breaking it into quarterly payments - would they?
I tried to get two years sot that I wouldn't have to go through this song and dance again in the near future, but the maximum is one year at a time.
Dirt_Dad
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Some learning experiences you just don't want. I'm getting the impression the primary purpose of the border crossing is to enrich the border employees. I'm guessing you are not safe to skip them?
Skip them? Good way to land in deep shit I would think. I'd considered using less busy crossings but that can be even worse... check out what happened to this guy.Dirt_Dad said:
I think I know how to handle them from now on. Well, until next time I'm confronted with confusing and conflicting information! These two borders were expensive, but on the other hand I got through both, and across Honduras (about 70 miles) in 5 hours. It would have taken probably another couple of hours without the "helpers" so it was worth the money (to a certain extent). I just wish the "road tax" I'd paid actually went into the roads. Many, many deep potholes in the highway as you cross Honduras. You are constantly weaving between them, while watching for swerving cars and trucks as they try to dodge them too.
Brainrotting: Episode 9 - Border Corruption Honduras BMW F650 GS adventure motorcycles overland
Dirt_Dad
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
That looks miserable. I'm glad you're able to get through it and keep motoring.dcstrom said:
RogerJ
Waypoint Wanderer
Hey Trevor, don't feel so bad. The last time I crossed into Honduras (a year ago exactly) it took 3 hours to get in, and 3 hours to get out again. The aprox. $35 is the going rate for a Temporary Import Permit. You weren't "hosed" anymore than anybody else if that helps. It is one of the most infamous borders in CA. After I cleared the border a policeman stopped me to re-check the papers and they had one digit on my licence plate wrong on the paperwork. Rather than make me go back and get it right he just let me go on. Luck of the draw on any given day. The hitch was that after clearing the policeman the oncoming lane was jammed with parked tractor tailers waiting for the border and my lane was suddenly taken up by a high-balling semi bearing down at speed on us taking 100% of my lane. Had to jump the bike (wife and I) off the road and deep into the ditch at about 40 kph. Kept it upright and somehow even got it back up onto the road the same way. Welcome to the adventure. Ride safe and have fun.dcstrom said:
Chris-KH2PM
New Member
Trevor, I've been following your ride report for a couple of days now, reading when I have free time. Finally caught up to the most current post!
I've been to many of the cities and countries you're traveling though. I'm a pilot, so I only get to see the airport and the town where the hotel
is in when we stay overnight. Flying in and out of Mexico, Central and South America (as far down as Lima and Sao Paulo in the past) seeing it
from the air, very sparse at times with such awesome expanses of uninhabited jungles. I've often looked down at isolated small villages with
red dirt paths leading to and fro, wondering what life must be like traveling and exploring it all. Curvy dirt roads along deep
valleys, or along a rocky creek, to the next small village. I don't particularly like the big cities with their corruption and crime, and the smog,
which is were me mainly end up on crew rest layovers.
Have a safe journey, and keep up with the awesome pics and video!
I've been to many of the cities and countries you're traveling though. I'm a pilot, so I only get to see the airport and the town where the hotel
is in when we stay overnight. Flying in and out of Mexico, Central and South America (as far down as Lima and Sao Paulo in the past) seeing it
from the air, very sparse at times with such awesome expanses of uninhabited jungles. I've often looked down at isolated small villages with
red dirt paths leading to and fro, wondering what life must be like traveling and exploring it all. Curvy dirt roads along deep
valleys, or along a rocky creek, to the next small village. I don't particularly like the big cities with their corruption and crime, and the smog,
which is were me mainly end up on crew rest layovers.
Have a safe journey, and keep up with the awesome pics and video!
Chris-KH2PM
New Member
Trevor is mobile again! I see his SPOT tracker is active..headed for Managua.
Yep thanks Chris, actually had TWO trips to Managua, one on Sunday while passing through on the way to Granada, and one on Tuesday when I went to pick up my new registration docs from UPS. I was dreading Managua after the bad things I'd heard about traffic there... Sunday was OK, but I thought that was because it was Sunday. But Tuesday was also fine... although I had some trouble finding UPS, since it wasn't where their web site said it was!Chris-KH2PM said:
I've been pleasantly surprised by traffic in all the major Central American cities I've been to - Guatemala City, San Salavador, and Managua. Had no issues with any of them really. OK I got stuck in a market street in the old part of San Salvador, with fruit and vegetable stalls spilling onto the street, a million people and a dozen big smokey buses... but the rest of town was really a modern city, completely overrun by US fast food outlets...
I think I found the key to getting on with the young backpackers... They don't seem to think a solo motorcycle trip is that cool, but... if you kick their arses at drinking games, you're a hero!dcstrom said:
Major respect, man. Yeah, that's right, I still got it. I went volcano boarding (pics to come) with a group in Leon, Nicaragua the other day, and when we got back to the hostel there was a BBQ and some drinking. The hostel had a thing where they would give away t-shirts if you could down 4 shots of chilli-spiked rum, and not throw up for 50 seconds. By this time I'd already had a few mojitos and some regular rum, so joined in the "fun". Some of the kids had tried it and thrown up (nice - luckily I didn't see that), but I managed to throw four shots down, and hold them down. Holy shit they were hot! This was rum from a bottle that was stuffed full of chillies - and some in the shots as well. I spilled some on my hand and it was still burning an hour later, even after flushing it with water. Hate to think what it did to my stomach. But it was worth it, I was a hero to the kids after that.NittanyXT, maybe you should challenge your son?
(just make sure you beat him - maybe you need some practice first?)
Chris-KH2PM
New Member
It's been awhile, but I've flown into San Jose, Costa Rica. Our layover hotel is the Crowne Plaza Corobici. Probably quite upscale for
the area. Haven't been downtown in some time though.
I've also flown into Tocumen, Panama. Hotel is not far from the canal zone, in the high-rise district. I could almost see the canals
but too many tall buildings in the way. Next time I'll get down to see the canals up close.
Flown in and out of Liberia, Costa Rica, Bogata, Caracas, Port of Spain Trinidad, Belize, Guayaquil, Quito, Lima Peru..trying to think where else down in SA.
Spent some quality time seeing the sights in Port of Spain. My flight crew and I all paid a local taxi driver to be our tour guide. Hit
the good local restaurants, beaches and a local dance club later that night.
Would enjoy longer stays but when we layover on crew rest we don't get much time to explore.
the area. Haven't been downtown in some time though.
I've also flown into Tocumen, Panama. Hotel is not far from the canal zone, in the high-rise district. I could almost see the canals
but too many tall buildings in the way. Next time I'll get down to see the canals up close.
Flown in and out of Liberia, Costa Rica, Bogata, Caracas, Port of Spain Trinidad, Belize, Guayaquil, Quito, Lima Peru..trying to think where else down in SA.
Spent some quality time seeing the sights in Port of Spain. My flight crew and I all paid a local taxi driver to be our tour guide. Hit
the good local restaurants, beaches and a local dance club later that night.
Would enjoy longer stays but when we layover on crew rest we don't get much time to explore.
More border crossings
A couple of days in a grotty hostel in Granada and I was ready to continue south - after picking up new registration docs from UPS Managua. I'm legal now! By the time I got to the border it was 1pm and a hundred degrees. I was having second thoughts about doing the crossing, standing around in that heat for a few hours really didn't seem to be a good idea. I was looking for somewhere to stay the nigh on the villages on the way down, but nothing appealed to me. There was a turnoff to the beach 20 miles back, and some signs for hotels, so I thought screw it, let's take a punt on that rather than cross the border today.
Turned out to be a good decision - San Juan de Sur is a pleasant beach town with $1 beers and nice beachfront restaurants. Plenty of accommodation meant I came up with a place with a quiet, clean, private room with a comfortable bed, for $8. Just what I needed to catch up on some sleep after 2 nights in a noisy hostel in Granada.
This morning I was up early and down to the border. Still an ordeal, but at least not too hot. I got to the Costa Rica side and at first was pleasantly surprised by what looked like a semblance of order. It was not to be however and ended up taking 3 hours to get though. No screwups or bribes this time anyway.
Time for lunch - stopped at a Burger King (I've been eating at fast food places a bit, mainly cos they have wifi) in Liberia, about 50 miles from the border... first thing I noticed was that prices were about double from what I'd been used to seeing through the rest of Central America. I may not be staying long.
Then headed to the mountains to escape the heat - down to a much more pleasant 80 degrees up here. I'm at Monteverde, and found a nice dirt road coming in (or it found me!) It was a little rough, a little loose, pretty windy, but without too many gotchas was just right for giving the Super Tenere some berries. This bike still amazes me the way it can stay so composed when pushing on dirt, fully loaded. Perfecto!
Trevor
A couple of days in a grotty hostel in Granada and I was ready to continue south - after picking up new registration docs from UPS Managua. I'm legal now! By the time I got to the border it was 1pm and a hundred degrees. I was having second thoughts about doing the crossing, standing around in that heat for a few hours really didn't seem to be a good idea. I was looking for somewhere to stay the nigh on the villages on the way down, but nothing appealed to me. There was a turnoff to the beach 20 miles back, and some signs for hotels, so I thought screw it, let's take a punt on that rather than cross the border today.
Turned out to be a good decision - San Juan de Sur is a pleasant beach town with $1 beers and nice beachfront restaurants. Plenty of accommodation meant I came up with a place with a quiet, clean, private room with a comfortable bed, for $8. Just what I needed to catch up on some sleep after 2 nights in a noisy hostel in Granada.
This morning I was up early and down to the border. Still an ordeal, but at least not too hot. I got to the Costa Rica side and at first was pleasantly surprised by what looked like a semblance of order. It was not to be however and ended up taking 3 hours to get though. No screwups or bribes this time anyway.
Time for lunch - stopped at a Burger King (I've been eating at fast food places a bit, mainly cos they have wifi) in Liberia, about 50 miles from the border... first thing I noticed was that prices were about double from what I'd been used to seeing through the rest of Central America. I may not be staying long.
Then headed to the mountains to escape the heat - down to a much more pleasant 80 degrees up here. I'm at Monteverde, and found a nice dirt road coming in (or it found me!) It was a little rough, a little loose, pretty windy, but without too many gotchas was just right for giving the Super Tenere some berries. This bike still amazes me the way it can stay so composed when pushing on dirt, fully loaded. Perfecto!
Trevor
Chris-KH2PM
New Member
Glad to see your choice in the Super Tenere is working out for you! I'm watching your trip with interest as I anticipate the XT1200Z to end up being the new standard by which all DualSports are judged by in the future. ::022:: Plus you're passing though many places I've been to or flown over.
As for finding respect from the youngsters, how did that turn out the next day? Myself, I recall a few times in years past wishing I'd not gone to such extremes with the hard liquor! Ha! The aftereffects have a much longer lasting impression than the fun I had the night before! But it's all good, glad you're having fun and living your dream!
Ride safe and keep up with the awesome pics. Particularly of those sunsets! WOW. Love it.
As for finding respect from the youngsters, how did that turn out the next day? Myself, I recall a few times in years past wishing I'd not gone to such extremes with the hard liquor! Ha! The aftereffects have a much longer lasting impression than the fun I had the night before! But it's all good, glad you're having fun and living your dream!
Ride safe and keep up with the awesome pics. Particularly of those sunsets! WOW. Love it.