Engine Warning Light- Gen2 2017-on bikes

[Watty100]

..and OBD2 fault code readers.
I recently had the engine light come on for the second time in 2 weeks and figured that this seemed to happen too easily on these bikes, especially as a trip to the dealer seemed to be the only fix. A search of this site told me how to get it fixed but only by following links to other forums.

So I thought I'd put the fix in one place on here to hopefully assist anyone else searching for a solution.
The solution is simple, get a fault code reader. The one I bought was recommended on the Tracer/FJR forum so here it is:
https://www.auteltech.com/Code Readers&Code Scanners/358.jhtml Bought off ebay for under £30.

You also need an adapter to fit the Yamaha 4 pin OBD2 port, this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-MT09-MT10-XSR900-R1-R6-TRACER900-Diagnostic-Plug-UK-Seller/173869594999?hash=item287b6f7977:g:3O0AAOSw241YiIg6 Yes I know it doesn't specify the S10, trust me, it fits.

On opening the box when the Autel unit arrived, I found a CD, put the app on my PC, downloaded the latest software to the unit taking all of 5 minutes and went out to the garage.

The port sits next to the battery, plugged in the unit and within 2 minutes, fault codes read and cleared and best of all, engine warning light gone out. Result!

I'm sure other brands of code reader will work just as well. I also plugged it into the 3 cars here and it linked with all of them no problems.
(and just in case you're worried I'm killing my bike by ignoring faults, the warning light was triggered by the back-wheel-moving, front-wheel-stationary scenario, like I said, its too easy to trigger this problem on this bike, fortunately its easy to fix)

 

[SHUMBA]

..and OBD2 fault code readers.
I recently had the engine light come on for the second time in 2 weeks and figured that this seemed to happen too easily on these bikes, especially as a trip to the dealer seemed to be the only fix. A search of this site told me how to get it fixed but only by following links to other forums.

So I thought I'd put the fix in one place on here to hopefully assist anyone else searching for a solution.
The solution is simple, get a fault code reader. The one I bought was recommended on the Tracer/FJR forum so here it is:
https://www.auteltech.com/Code Readers&Code Scanners/358.jhtml Bought off ebay for under £30.

You also need an adapter to fit the Yamaha 4 pin OBD2 port, this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-MT09-MT10-XSR900-R1-R6-TRACER900-Diagnostic-Plug-UK-Seller/173869594999?hash=item287b6f7977:g:3O0AAOSw241YiIg6 Yes I know it doesn't specify the S10, trust me, it fits.

On opening the box when the Autel unit arrived, I found a CD, put the app on my PC, downloaded the latest software to the unit taking all of 5 minutes and went out to the garage.

The port sits next to the battery, plugged in the unit and within 2 minutes, fault codes read and cleared and best of all, engine warning light gone out. Result!

I'm sure other brands of code reader will work just as well. I also plugged it into the 3 cars here and it linked with all of them no problems.
(and just in case you're worried I'm killing my bike by ignoring faults, the warning light was triggered by the back-wheel-moving, front-wheel-stationary scenario, like I said, its too easy to trigger this problem on this bike, fortunately its easy to fix)

Thanks, this is a good bit of information.
So, by giving the bike too much throttle on slippery surfaces or dirt roads causing the rear wheel to spin faster than the front wheel will this trigger a fault code??
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

 

[Bart]

Have been looking at getting one of these, great info and thanks for posting.

P.S. the adaptor does list our bike down the ebay page.

 

[airmed]

Can't you just get into the diagnostics page and clear it yourself without a reader?

 

[Watty100]

Can't you just get into the diagnostics page and clear it yourself without a reader?

No, not on the late-model bikes, 2017-on I believe. Plug in only.

 

[Watty100]

Thanks, this is a good bit of information.
So, by giving the bike too much throttle on slippery surfaces or dirt roads causing the rear wheel to spin faster than the front wheel will this trigger a fault code??
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

If only I were that good.... dyno run first time, spinning the rear while cleaning (ignition on) second time. You live and learn

 

[SHUMBA]

If only I were that good.... dyno run first time, spinning the rear while cleaning (ignition on) second time. You live and learn

So, if I see this light come on, I assume it will be OK to continue riding until my next trip to my service shop. Unless I stop, turn off the key, pause and then restart the bike. Would this do a reset? How about the lower button on the dash display, would this button reset the fault?
My shop is about an hour away from home.
Hope I never see this light.
SHUMBA



Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

 

[Don in Lodi]

So, the new bikes set a code when traction control hits? That seems strange.

 

[gv550]

No, they don't. Normal riding and spinning around in the mud will cause the TCS light to flash but no code or engine light. Prolonged rear wheel turning such as on a dyno or lubing the chain (oops, wrong bike) will set a code.

 

[SHUMBA]

No, they don't. Normal riding and spinning around in the mud will cause the TCS light to flash but no code or engine light. Prolonged rear wheel turning such as on a dyno or lubing the chain (oops, wrong bike) will set a code.

Ok, thanks for that gv550, howya'll doin??
SHUMBA

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[Jlq1969]

No, not on the late-model bikes, 2017-on I believe. Plug in only.

please, since you have an obd2 fault code reader, you could do a test for me. I already made it mounted on the center stand, I turned the wheel with gear geared and the light of the check turned on (I had to go to the technical ss to turn it off) I suppose on a slippery surface (mud), without spin the front wheel It will be something similar, but it is assumed that in this situation you have to disconnect the TCS. if you can do that test for me, to mount it in the center stand and spin the wheel in gear, but with the TCS OFF, it is a doubt that I am left from when I did it, but I could not check it again because I was going to have to go again to the technical ss or no, i don’t know ( My is 2018 ES). When I did it, it was to deactivate the ABS, while I was doing it, I was able to see that the lights of the abs and tcs were blinking and then the light of the check went on permanently. But I have that doubt of having disconnected the TCS

 

[pkelly20]

I have a 2017 ES. I’ve had it up on center stand and put it in gear before. My ABS light came on and stayed on. I just rode it and it went off by itself.


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[RonH]

I think the European models are different than the USA in how this all works. I looked for the adapter to hook up a code reader and noticed every offering on ebay was from England, then read stories on various forums of how you must go to the dealer to turn off the warning light once it's triggered, and again every person that complained of this was from Europe. Here in USA I believe the indicator goes off on it's own once the motorcycle regains normal inputs from whatever set off the error. I know on my 2017 I triggered the light by running the engine in gear on the centerstand spinning the rear wheel. The light went off within 100ft once I rode out the driveway.

 

[SHUMBA]

I think the European models are different than the USA in how this all works. I looked for the adapter to hook up a code reader and noticed every offering on ebay was from England, then read stories on various forums of how you must go to the dealer to turn off the warning light once it's triggered, and again every person that complained of this was from Europe. Here in USA I believe the indicator goes off on it's own once the motorcycle regains normal inputs from whatever set off the error. I know on my 2017 I triggered the light by running the engine in gear on the centerstand spinning the rear wheel. The light went off within 100ft once I rode out the driveway.

OK thanks to you RonH. That answers my earlier question about how to cancel the light.
At least I know you were not trying to oil your chain with the bike on the centre stand with the engine running.
A few riders couldn't count to ten after trying this.
SHUMBA

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[Cycledude]

Rode my previous 2013 out my snow covered driveway about 200 feet spinning all the way, one of the dash lights was flashing but that went back to normal once I got out on the clear road past my house.

Last month on my return home from a trip with my new 2018 Tenere my driveway hadn’t been plowed so I was spinning and actually got stuck before I made it to the garage, no warning lights came on.

 

[pooh and xtine]

If only we could load different fuel and ignition maps via OBD2, like I used to be able to do on my Aprilia Caponord using TuneECU....!

 

[Jlq1969]

the warning light was triggered by the back-wheel-moving, front-wheel-stationary scenario, like I said, its too easy to trigger this problem on this bike, fortunately its easy to fix)

Rode my previous 2013 out my snow covered driveway about 200 feet spinning all the way, one of the dash lights was flashing but that went back to normal once I got out on the clear road past my house.

Last month on my return home from a trip with my new 2018 Tenere my driveway hadn’t been plowed so I was spinning and actually got stuck before I made it to the garage, no warning lights came on.

When happened to me, look for answers in several forums, I found coincidences with the R1, but I did not see as normal, that in the S10, the light of the check was a problem. Mine was for curiosity, try to deactivate the ABS using the center stand, and discovered that in Gen2, the fault codes, could not be erased from the dash. But doubts came up, Cycledude, started to clarify some with his slipering in a 2018. He says he saw the lights blinking (tcs), but he did not turn on the light of the check ... so I think in a slip situation by mud or snow, the important thing is to enter that situation with the TCS OFF. The difference between that situation and mine, is that it was already circulating (so the light of the abs was off), and my situation was different, I rotated / spin the wheel in the center stand, but the light of the abs was on, because I did it immediately after the start, without moving it, so the ecu had not finished his autocheck , so had not turned off the abs light. I hope I have been able to convey my doubt in the correct way, so that those who need to deactivate the abs, do not turn on the light of the check permanently. I am sure without a doubt: TRY TO DISCONNECT ABS USING CENTER STAND, WITH ABS LIGHT ON, BECAUSE THE BIKE WAS NOT MOVED UNTIL, GENERATES FAULT CODE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGTH ON PERMANENTLY . The doubt I have: TRY TO DISCONNECT ABS,USING CENTER STAND, but with the ABS LIGTH OFF, and the TCS OFF, generate a fault code??? In 2018+

 

[Watty100]

According to the owners manual, in normal riding, if the rear wheel slides and triggers the TCS, the TCS light will flash but not cause the engine fault light to come on. It advises that if you get stuck in mud or snow, turn off the TCS.
It also says it will disable itself in the following conditions:
"Excessive rear wheel spinning"
"Popping a wheelie or stoppie"
"If either wheel is rotated with the ignition ON".......it goes on to say both TCS light and engine fault light will come on.
The manual then advises you to switch off the ignition for a few seconds, switch back on and the fault may have cleared, if not, go to your dealer for a reset.
So I presume if the wheelspin exceeds set parameters in the ECU, it registers a major fault and wants a trip to the dealer.
The manual also states the bike can still be ridden with the engine fault light showing. In my own case, I must have done 400 miles of spirited riding with no problems at all.
So it brings me back to my original point, the engine warning light seems a little too easy to trigger on these bikes.
Oh for the days of carburetors and the only electronics being the little black box providing the sparks!

 

[RonH]

I bought a cable off ebay and will report back my results in USA. I have a good Snap On and a Launch scanner. I won't go back to a dealer for anything. That is why I ride Japanese, not BMW.

 

[Nikolajsen]

When I got my S10, (2017 european model) I found a remote gravel parking lot.
And there I did a whole lot of spinning rear wheel, both on TCS 1, TCS2 and TCS off.
You know, to get to know your bike....and the TCS did of course flicker all the time, when in TCS 1 and 2.
And light up all the time, when TCS off.
There was never any fault codes....

When accelerate all the the S10 is capable off, the TCS will flicker, when the front lift, still no error code...
When accelerate all the S10 is capable off with TCS off, the front will go up, untill you shift to second, and then go a bit up again...no error codes.

But, I could imagine a situation where the rear is spinning for a long time, without the front is turning at all, thiis might give a error code.
If I have done the programming, I would have done the same.
Just like Watty100 describe