Does your bike really go into neutral when you pull the clutch?

[zimmerdj]

no mater how I adjust it when coming to a stop pulling my clutch in my bike still moves forward with a good bit of momentum. is this normal?

 

[carrot]

sounds dangerous try bleeding the clutch cylinder .

 

[hANNAbONE]

NO..NOT NORMAL

 

[Karson]

no mater how I adjust it when coming to a stop pulling my clutch in my bike still moves forward with a good bit of momentum. is this normal?

like others said, not normal. is there any backstory here like mileage, warranty, etc...?

 

[cbrunsw]

Not normal and it doesn't go into neutral. Try pushing it around on a level surface with it off with the clutch pulled in and in gear and try again in neutral. Should be easier in neutral but not impossible in gear with the clutch pulled. My 2 cents.

 

[zimmerdj]

the bike has about 30,000 miles on it, no warranty work. let me be clearer though, it goes into neutral at the gear lever but when coming to a stop and downshifting if I put it in first and have the clutch pulled all of the way in it still moves forward. once I stop the bike it stays stopped there isn't enough power to move it from a stop.
what is the procedure for clutch bleeding? don't think I've ever had to do that on a bike. thanks

 

[mcbrien]

I have noticed this condition when bike is first started . I always push the hand lever all the way forward
then pump the clutch a couple of times before starting . No issues with this procedure .

 

[Tippo]

At 30,000 miles you are over due for a change of clutch and brake fluid. It's not a difficult procedure but if you do not have a service manual take it to a pro and watch carefully so you can do it yourself next time.
Jeff

 

[zimmerdj]

I've owned many bikes (with many miles) but I've never changed the clutch fluid in a single one. I have the service manual and I'll check the procedure. I wonder if this is why I've seen the dip in mpg?

thanks for the help y'all

 

[Ron_Luning]

Something similar developed on my bike around 8k miles. The procedure of pumping the lever as mentioned in a another post may work, but that means you have some air in the line so it is not a good solution long-term. I have bled brakes and clutches before, but this bike wouldn't clear the air no matter how what I did (Mityvac, hand bleed, etc.). The fix for me was to apply a bit of pressure on the lever while quickly cracking open and closing the banjo bolt up by the master cylinder. Be careful and lay out something to protect your bike because fluid will shoot out. That was the trapped air for me, but it may not be for you.
I haven't had to yet, but it sounds like you are due for a fluid replacement
When that time comes for me, I plan on changing the fluid from the bottom up. Meaning inject new fluid using a syringe with a tube hooked to it at the slave cylinder, and extract old fluid using a different syringe At the master cylinder until it is all new fluid. That will hopefully minimize the chances of introducing air by accident.

 

[terryth]

A little drag is entirely normal for a constant mesh transmission multiplate clutch ran in oil, simply due to the design. Any time the transmission is not in actual neutral, a lot more of the gears and clutch parts are still moving. Sounds like it's not getting fully disengaged due to air in the line or some other issue with the master or slave cylinder. Could possibly be a warped or damaged clutch plate also