Custom made sub fuel tank

[Checkswrecks]

Understand. Just trying to help you not re-invent the wheel.
Yamaha makes a lot of quad ATVs, so maybe one of those will work for you.

 

[Baggs]

Hi All

Aluminium sheets have arrived so i will be able to start making up templates and building the tank , i was wanting to know how many of you are running an after market rear shock and have the remote pre load adjuster mounted to the sub frame ? on a good note i rode my vintage harley with a vintage car club to a private vintage car museum while i was holidaying back in victoria , while i was there i got chatting to the owner who was stressing because one of the cars which was a 1910 french built car ( i can't remember the model) but his daughter wanted to use it as the wedding car . the problem he had was the original starter motor / generator in one wasnt working so he had a truck starter motor modified to go where the original one went . the only problem was that the starter is a direct mount to the front of the crank. this made it 1 to 1 ratio which is too much for load straight up for the starter to turn the motor over it would just melt the battery leads. so i suggested a planetary gear set , he said yes the original starter motor had a planetary gear set in the front of it . we went to one of his other shed put the original starter on the bench and turned it over to see what its ratio was but it turned 1 to 1 to cut a long story short the one way clutch and planetary gear set had been installed incorrectly in the original starter once it was correctly installed it turned over at a 12 to 1 ratio and would now start the car . i then started to mention the tank i was making for my s10 which turned out this man owns a plastics moulding company specialising in custom made fuel tanks . He said if i can produce a working aluminum fuel tank that is successful and has enough interest he will use it to make a plastic mold and produce plastic ones.

so pressure is on i have to come up with a good design that will be functional for most of us

Cheers Sam

 

[Dogdaze]

Now you're cooking with gas............ get it? Gas, oh never mind, was not very good anyway.

 

[Berg_Donk]

Here's my Ohlins:

 

[Glenn C]

Hi All

Aluminium sheets have arrived so i will be able to start making up templates and building the tank , i was wanting to know how many of you are running an after market rear shock and have the remote pre load adjuster mounted to the sub frame ? on a good note i rode my vintage harley with a vintage car club to a private vintage car museum while i was holidaying back in victoria , while i was there i got chatting to the owner who was stressing because one of the cars which was a 1910 french built car ( i can't remember the model) but his daughter wanted to use it as the wedding car . the problem he had was the original starter motor / generator in one wasnt working so he had a truck starter motor modified to go where the original one went . the only problem was that the starter is a direct mount to the front of the crank. this made it 1 to 1 ratio which is too much for load straight up for the starter to turn the motor over it would just melt the battery leads. so i suggested a planetary gear set , he said yes the original starter motor had a planetary gear set in the front of it . we went to one of his other shed put the original starter on the bench and turned it over to see what its ratio was but it turned 1 to 1 to cut a long story short the one way clutch and planetary gear set had been installed incorrectly in the original starter once it was correctly installed it turned over at a 12 to 1 ratio and would now start the car . i then started to mention the tank i was making for my s10 which turned out this man owns a plastics moulding company specialising in custom made fuel tanks . He said if i can produce a working aluminum fuel tank that is successful and has enough interest he will use it to make a plastic mold and produce plastic ones.

so pressure is on i have to come up with a good design that will be functional for most of us

Cheers Sam

::008:: ::008:: ::012::

 

[Checkswrecks]

Look at this other thread for other potentially interested:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=14856.msg244192#msg244192

 

[Baggs]

Hi Berg Donk

thanks for the pic of the ohlins rear suspension setup. i see it's mounted on the outside edge of the sub frame which is good this means i don't have to worry about it interfering with the tank


also thanks checkswrecks for the link



Baggs

 

[Baggs]

well where on the rear suspension topic i'm trying to work out clearances from rear wheel to bottom of tank so i can work out how low i can sit tank in sub frame . for me i have plenty of space as i fitted a 25mm raising link and have aftermarket rear shock with adjustable rear shock length .

my question is are most people running standard height so i should design the tank to suit that clearance height or are the majority of people lowering their rear suspension


Cheers Baggs

 

[Dogdaze]

I would imagine most people are running stock, a few lower and a few higher, those that are running lower, are they also running lower seats, if not that could be an area of compromise and switch 'lowering point'?
If you cater for the majority you should be ok, unless you end up making a 'slimline' version aswell with less capacity to cater to those with lowered suspension, just a thought.

 

[Berg_Donk]

I recommend to aim for stock height. My Ohlins is longer than stock for <> 22 mm more ride height, but compresses to about the same position as stock for more travel. It may even compress a couple of mm more than stock.

 

[hoak]

Cool projects both, really looking forward to seeing how this comes out and is priced! You might want to use heavy plastic as your protection vs steel; it's much lighter, will absorb rather then transmit energy, can be much more flexible as far as fabricating and mounting solutions, cost, and there won't be any dielectric issues you'll have to deal with that aren't a particularly good thing in general, or as part of a fuel cell or nacelle in particular.

::008::

 

[Baggs]

been spending a bit of time on the fuel tank have got a pretty good shape that fits the sub frame snug still needs a lot of work to get it looking nice and neat but at least the shape of how it will look is coming along

sorry about the photo quality only had my phone on me , i'm back on shift at work for the next 10 days so any more progress on the tank will have to wait.


Cheers Baggs

 

[Dogdaze]

Looks good ::008:: One question (for now) the square hump at the rear, it that the fill location, if not how will that space be of use that high up? Or is it just to allow better fitment of the tank. It may be obvious but so excuse the dummy question.

 

[Baggs]

that will be the fill location i will fit a yamaha fuel cap the same style as main tank . that square hump fits under the genuine plastic luggage rack. when i fit the fuel cap, the cap will be flush with the top of the luggage rack . which will allow you to still have a pillion seat if required . my thought were its a sub tank so you won't be filling it up every stop , i only have a single swag with 2 straps on that part of the rack and if it the pillion seat is fitted there is a location for a allen key under the rider's seat and use it to undo the 2 pillion seat bolts , i haven't been able to come up with a better solution that allows you to maximize fuel space and still utilize most of the standard bike features

cheers Baggs

 

[Dogdaze]

So just had a look at the bike and would the rear fender and brake light have to be eliminated? or some kind of bracket to re-attach the unit?

 

[Baggs]

the brake light will all bolt on and wiring as standard the rear brake fluid reservoir and line will have to be relocated ( i've got a cut out in the tank on the rhs side behind the rear shock i planning on fitting the brake reservoir there , i'm also mounting the abs unit in the top of the tank as it will be bolted to the tank from its factory bolt holes. the plastic guard that fills the bottom of the wheel arch and under the seat and supports the abs module will be removed and left out but all the original mounting brackets for seats and panels will remain. the bottom of the tank will fill the wheel arch. i will make a plastic plate to protect underside of tank from rocks and debris


cheers Baggs

 

[Baggs]

on my next break i will fit the mounting brackets and tank to the sub frame and in the bike with pics so it is easier to see how it fits it is very tight

cheers Baggs

 

[True Grip]

Very Impressive Baggs!

 

[Baggs]

i've been doing some thinking on the fuel delivery system and i want to use as little components as possible to save on space and money. most new efi fuel pumps have a built in check valve to stop the fuel returning back . does anyone know if the genuine yamaha one has this feature ?

this will save me time so i don't have to pull the one out of my fuel tank .

also wanting to know if anyone one knows what other model yamahas used the same fuel gauge sender unit as i don't want to buy a new one as i will be experimenting with fitment possibilities and may damage it

Cheers Baggs

 

[Berg_Donk]

I have had a 660 pump out swapping a tank and struggled a bit. In my internet research I determined that it was more or less the same as an R1 that had the same issue, a barb that stopped the assembly from coming out. Which sort of suggets that Yamaha use a standard assembly, but I can't say what the S10 has, but would speculate that its the same.

Nice workmanship BTW