Cruise control fault

Sandford6016

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Hi, I've trawled the forum and tried most things, but my cruise control on my 2015 1200z is not working. I can get the orange light on, but when pressing 'set' is does nothing.

I've checked the brake pedal, clutch and brake lever switches, applied contact cleaner to the cruise control switch undersides but still no joy. The only thing I haven't done yet is checked the fuse. But would the orange light come on if the fuse had blown??

Now, the only thing that had changed on the bike since recently, however it did work straight afterwards, was that I've fitted the cyclops LED headlight bulb kit.

Any ideas before I ring the dealer to look at it under warranty?? Thanks!
 

fac191

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Hi dude, cant offer you any advice on the cruise control. However i would be interested in what you think of the Cyclops kit and where you got it from.
Thanks and good luck.
 

WJBertrand

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Does the brake light work when you pull the lever or press the pedal? A blown brake light fuse might not let the system engage?
 

Sandford6016

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fac191 said:
Hi dude, cant offer you any advice on the cruise control. However i would be interested in what you think of the Cyclops kit and where you got it from.
Thanks and good luck.
Cyclops kit is all good! Got it from Sport Touring Ltd online, £180 I think. Pretty easy to fit and looks good.
 

Sierra1

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Is it the weather conditions in the UK that seem to cause the electronic gremlins? It seems that they have more than their share of them. I would rather have five mechanical woes versus one electrical. :(
 

Checkswrecks

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You had me on the word "warranty." LOL Let us know what they find.
We've had a couple of people with a loose wheel sensor or broken sensor wire.
 

Squibb

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I know you have checked the rear brake pedal switch already, but so had I, yet mine would still not set (2014 ES/ZE) after a pedal adjustment.

The simple fact was that when the bike was on the stand, everything was OK - once I set off down the road, with the bike loaded, the rear brake light was flickering on as there wasn't quite enough slack. A quick adjustment to the switch & a check that it worked reliably soon had this sorted.

Just a thought, that might avoid you spending time delving deeper.

.................... KEN
 

Sandford6016

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Squibb said:
I know you have checked the rear brake pedal switch already, but so had I, yet mine would still not set (2014 ES/ZE) after a pedal adjustment.

The simple fact was that when the bike was on the stand, everything was OK - once I set off down the road, with the bike loaded, the rear brake light was flickering on as there wasn't quite enough slack. A quick adjustment to the switch & a check that it worked reliably soon had this sorted.

Just a thought, that might avoid you spending time delving deeper.

.................... KEN

Double checked that today.... nope.

Checked the fuse..... nope.

Looks like a phone call to the dealer on Monday morning!
 

Squibb

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Strange. Sadly it's beginning to sound like a dealer job, as you say. Hopefully the bike will offer up a fault code.

Just a few thoughts in the meantime. Was your latest check-up in the workshop, or on the road. Have you had a buddy follow you to check the brakelight scenario, to make absolutely sure it's not flickering on without your input? The clutch & front brakelight switches, behind the levers are both OK I think, presumably with no visible damage to their wiring.

Presumably the ABS system is fully operational, warning light on at start-up, extinguished at walking pace & actually works when called for on the road? Checks mentions the wires/sensor issue, which usually occurs after a wheel has been out for a tyre change, although can be caused by road debris. Are the sensors firmly in place, looking at clean windows in the reluctor rings? It may be worth pulling the sensors to check for dirt/damage to the face surface.

Otherwise, I'm afraid it's a deeper look into the whole system. I guess you could have disturbed a connector somewhere fitting the LEDs, but it seems unlikely as cruise was still operational afterwards.

Good luck with finding the gremlin. Keep us posted ......................... KEN
 

Gigitt

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Sounds like you have checked all the obvious things like light brake switches etc...

One thing you have not checked is the throttle.
You can cancel the cruise control by rolling the throttle forward or say into negative throttle. It is described in the owners manual. I had to look it up as I thought my bike was faulty. Every time I stood up my cruise always cut out - because i was rolled the throttle a bit negative.

so check it out... this is the last switch you can check if you have checked all the others.
 

Dogdaze

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Gigitt said:
Sounds like you have checked all the obvious things like light brake switches etc...

One thing you have not checked is the throttle.
You can cancel the cruise control by rolling the throttle forward or say into negative throttle. It is described in the owners manual. I had to look it up as I thought my bike was faulty. Every time I stood up my cruise always cut out - because i was rolled the throttle a bit negative.

so check it out... this is the last switch you can check if you have checked all the others.
OMG! That is the best news I've heard about the bike. Thanks for sharing I will try it out this week ::008::
 

Squibb

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Good thought Giigitt.

It's just possible he displaced the throttle cables somehow, when swopping out those headlight bulbs, leaving them tight & so stopping the green cruise SET light. Personally, I rarely use this feature - I usually pick up the throttle & give her a dab of front brake, which takes back manual control seemlessly.

Section 3-8 BP1 covers this aspect of deactivation incidentally.

Just one final thought, the side stand switch. It gets a hard life in the UK winter season & whilst it usually throws up stalling or hard start problems, it does have that close relationship with the clutch switch as a means of avoiding disasters, so might be worth checking out if all else fails. See 3-9 regarding auto deactivation scenarios. We don't appear to have a flashing orange cruise indicator here, nor is it switching out/throwing a code, so I sense it just has to be something simple.

Good luck with sorting this OP .................... KEN
 

Sandford6016

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Thanks guys, currently on a night shift so will check those throttle cables before I ride home just to be sure. Failing that, I'll call the dealer as soon as they open in the morning!
 

Sandford6016

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Throttle cables looked good, so called the dealer. First slot that have available is the 2nd of May!!! So bit of a wait until it is sorted sadly!
 

Squibb

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Have you been following the concurrent post, which may yield a solution? : -

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=21774.0;topicseen.

I assume, in checking the cables, you have plenty of slack on the closing cable.

Initially, most of us would have our money on this being a fault in the rear brakelight switch, either needing adjustment or sticking on after application of the brake. However those ABS sensors are worth checking for debris & clearance, along with clean windows in the reluctor rings - you don't mention how the ABS is behaving?

Good luck with the fix ...................... KEN
 

Sandford6016

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Thanks Squibb. I'm going to be a real noob and ask what is a reluctor ring and where is it? The abs is behaving fine. Have checked everything whilst riding and no brake light flickering. I'll have a close look and see if the brake pedal sensor is sticking tomorrow.
 

Squibb

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Sandford6016 said:
Thanks Squibb. I'm going to be a real noob and ask what is a reluctor ring and where is it? The abs is behaving fine. Have checked everything whilst riding and no brake light flickering. I'll have a close look and see if the brake pedal sensor is sticking tomorrow.
It's the ring on each wheel hub that the ABS sensor looks at, as a means of checking wheel rotation/speed. Unfortunately, unlike most bikes with ABS, Yamaha chose to shroud these on the S10, so the only means of checking, without pulling the wheels, is to unbolt the sensor & see if you have any dirt/damage on its face & peer onto the hole to see if there is anything obvious that may serve to corrupt the signal. The sensors are on the left front, right rear, & need to be treated with care at all times. TBH, probably best left alone, if you don't feel confident about the workings of the ABS system.

As long as the ABS warning light comes on at start-up, extinguishes when you reach c.6 mph & you can feel the anti-lock sytem cutting in, pulsing the levers when you stamp on the brakes at speed, all should be well. See section 3-5 & 3-28/29 of the Owner's Manual. Incidentally, just because the brakes work OK, doesn't mean the ABS is functioning correctly, although it's self-diagnosis is pretty robust. Your bike is young, so I would not have expected anyone feeling the need to tamper with the ABS warning light to get her sold/through an MOT.

So, all being well with the ABS, it just has to be one of the other sensors that isn't providing the correct message, to allow the cruise to set. We have just about exhausted the usual suspects. If that rear brakelight switch definitely checks out, there is little else for you to check - however could I suggest you remove the heel plate anyway & just give the switch a little more slack &, dare I say, a few sqirts of WD40 or the like. At the same time, while you are there, it would be good to remove & lube the pedal pivot as well as the master cylinder pivot behind. Britsh weather means the switch gets a hard time with winter riding & others have mentioned already that the switch can fail, due largely to internal corrosion.

Keep us posted ....................... KEN
 

Sandford6016

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So, kind of an update.....

Bike went into the dealer this morning. Just had a call to say they can't find what's causing the fault. They called Yamaha UK to see if there is a known issue and the answer was no. So now they are basically keeping the bike until the fix it! :mad: :mad: :mad:
 
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