Creeking steering head bearing - help needed

[78YZ]

First and hopefully minor issue with the S10. When I turn the bars left to right, I get a click. The bike only has 3700 miles and is still under warranty. I ran it over to the dealer and asked the service manager to take a listen. He described it as a "creeky bearing" and does not think it is a problem; maybe just low on grease. Here is my dilemma - I am leaving on a long trip in six days and need a) piece of mind, and b) a bike that will not leave me stranded. However, it is the FODS ride, which is going to be S10 riders so I bet I would get lots of help if this gets worse.


I am thinking about taking it apart and greasing the bearings. If I get it apart and the bearings are damaged, I am screwed for this trip. I do not have the spanner wrench to precisely torque the bearings so that is another concern.


Looking at the parts fiche, and my service manual, it appears there is only one bearing on the top. Is that correct? I have never seen a bike that did not have upper and lower bearings.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[greg the pole]

if memory serves, there has to be at least a lower bearing...
https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2013/11/10/fork-rebuild-v2-0-steering-head-grease-up-and-front-rim-grease-spoke-tigtening/
yep, two bearings.

They will be low on grease...and more likely than not, the top nut could very well be loose too. Mine was. torque is 96lb or something like that.

 

[78YZ]

Thanks! I guess I'll dig into this over the weekend. Stay tuned.

 

[trikepilot]

I do not have the spanner wrench to precisely torque the bearings so that is another concern.

Same as many here. Use a hammer and flat blade screwdriver (or the like) and tap it tight "enough." My steering head bearings were dry when I checked it. It is an easy fix and gives you good peace of mind.

 

[78YZ]

Same as many here. Use a hammer and flat blade screwdriver (or the like) and tap it tight "enough." My steering head bearings were dry when I checked it. It is an easy fix and gives you good peace of mind.

Yes, that is the plan. Thanks for your input. I am not worried about getting it off and on. My concern was getting it torqued correctly. I just ordered the Yamaha wrench but I doubt it will arrive in time for my upcoming trip. Most likely, I will wing that part of it and torque it to spec when I return from my trip.

 

[EricV]

torque is 96lb or something like that.

No, it's not. Not even close to that high. 96 ft/lbs is a little high for most wheel lug nuts on cars!

FSM page 3-19. This is a two step process. Loosen the lower ring nut, then tighten it to 38 ft/lbs. Loosen it again and tighten it to 13 ft/lbs. The factory wrench should be at a right angle to the torque wrench. And if you don't have one that goes down to 13, don't just try and fake it. 1 ft/lb = 12 in/lbs. So 13 x 12 = 156 in/lbs, (or 18 Nm or 1.8 m-kgf) Auto parts stores will often loan tools with a CC deposit of the cost of the tool, fully refunded when you return the tool. Or charged if you decide to keep it.

I have the wrench, you can buy one off ebay for less than the Yamaha tool and it's the same tool. I have the FSM. I've done this several times on several bikes, both FJRs and Super Tens, as well as other bikes. It's not difficult if you have the correct tool.

And Greg is correct, they are often loose on new bikes after a few thousand miles. Mine was too, even the top nut, which just holds the triple trees on was loose. It's not a huge concern unless you are getting head shake while riding, usually in decel, from say 50 to 30 mph. Even then, it's usually subtle unless you have both hands off the bars, (don't do that during accel or decel, eh?)

 

[arjayes]

Been meaning to check this forever on my bike. Just bought the tool for $32 from dingy101 on Ebay. Sounded better to me than the hammer and screwdriver option. Thanks for the info, Eric.

 

[Tyke]

No, it's not. Not even close to that high. 96 ft/lbs is a little high for most wheel lug nuts on cars!

FSM page 3-19. This is a two step process. Loosen the lower ring nut, then tighten it to 38 ft/lbs. Loosen it again and tighten it to 13 ft/lbs. The factory wrench should be at a right angle to the torque wrench. And if you don't have one that goes down to 13, don't just try and fake it. 1 ft/lb = 12 in/lbs. So 13 x 12 = 156 in/lbs, (or 18 Nm or 1.8 m-kgf) Auto parts stores will often loan tools with a CC deposit of the cost of the tool, fully refunded when you return the tool. Or charged if you decide to keep it.

I have the wrench, you can buy one off ebay for less than the Yamaha tool and it's the same tool. I have the FSM. I've done this several times on several bikes, both FJRs and Super Tens, as well as other bikes. It's not difficult if you have the correct tool.

And Greg is correct, they are often loose on new bikes after a few thousand miles. Mine was too, even the top nut, which just holds the triple trees on was loose. It's not a huge concern unless you are getting head shake while riding, usually in decel, from say 50 to 30 mph. Even then, it's usually subtle unless you have both hands off the bars, (don't do that during accel or decel, eh?)

Totally agree....I don't know the actual torque setting concerned, but do not fake it.. ??? (90+ft/lbs is too high for sure)

All bearings require the correct pressure and correct lubrication in order to function correctly

If you don't have the correct tool then take it to a dealer who has and get them to check it ::008::

 

[78YZ]

Totally agree....I don't know the actual torque setting concerned, but do not fake it.. ??? (90+ft/lbs is too high for sure)

All bearings require the correct pressure and correct lubrication in order to function correctly

If you don't have the correct tool then take it to a dealer who has and get them to check it ::008::

94 ft-lb is the specified torque for the nut in the center of the top fork clamp. I started the job already and that was hand tight. :-[

 

[EricV]

94 ft-lb is the specified torque for the nut in the center of the top fork clamp. I started the job already and that was hand tight. :-[

To clarify some. FSM page 4-91 & 4-92 show nice exploded diagrams of the steering stem and triple trees. Yes, 94 ft/lbs is correct for the top nut that is under the rubber plug. That nut holds the top triple tree in place and your handle bars. It has nothing to do with the pressure on the steering stem bearings. And yes, I've seen that loose too, but it doesn't stay tight if the bearings settle in below when the bike is new.

 

[Nig5]

To clarify some. FSM page 4-91 & 4-92 show nice exploded diagrams of the steering stem and triple trees. Yes, 94 ft/lbs is correct for the top nut that is under the rubber plug. That nut holds the top triple tree in place and your handle bars. It has nothing to do with the pressure on the steering stem bearings. And yes, I've seen that loose too, but it doesn't stay tight if the bearings settle in below when the bike is new.

"the top triple tree in place and your handle bars", so if for example that nut was loose could the handlebars twist, just asking because mine did (it`s in another thread) thought it was the pinch bolts loose on the "triple tree"(as our american cousins call it!) took it to dealer today and they straightened the bars and said the pinch bolts were the correct torque, did notice my bars were tilted back a bit so they must have taken the handlebars out of the clamps! either that or the handlebar clamps were loose in the triple tree!

 

[78YZ]

The bearings had plenty of grease. I cannot fault the person who prepped this bike. Here is the top bearing.

 

[EricV]

"the top triple tree in place and your handle bars", so if for example that nut was loose could the handlebars twist, just asking because mine did (it`s in another thread) thought it was the pinch bolts loose on the "triple tree"(as our american cousins call it!) took it to dealer today and they straightened the bars and said the pinch bolts were the correct torque, did notice my bars were tilted back a bit so they must have taken the handlebars out of the clamps! either that or the handlebar clamps were loose in the triple tree!

Well, that's interesting. To have the bars twisted, would mean that the forks were also twisted, despite the pinch bolts being tight. The pinch bolts are only ~17 ft/lbs, if I recall correctly. Its likely that they removed the bars and placed them on some shop towels over the gauges to get them out of the way while they loosened the upper and lower pinch bolts and main center nut to straiten the whole thing out. It's a lot easier with the cables and wires not fighting you, plus some shops use an alignment tool across the risers to measure things and get it correct, instead of just eyeball strait.