Cooked Headlamp Harness

[EricV]

Eric, glad you chimed in here. Are your ceramic connectors still doing well? I was going to solder some on to the harness wires after clipping off the old connectors, like you have done.

Mark R.

Hi Mark,

Just went and pulled the covers off to take a look. Turned over 67k this weekend. So about 18k on the ceramic connectors. The wires appear to have not changed since then. I can see some indications of heat on the blue plastic covering the ceramic connectors themselves, (at the bulb ends), and there was some white/tan powder under the right side cover, mostly at the top of the cover.

I have not had a re-occurrence of the intermittent headlight since installing the ceramic connectors.

Left bulb -

Right bulb -

FYI - There are links to the ceramic connectors earlier in this thread. I found mine on ebay. 90º H7 with pig tails of wire, not plugs. Like others, I soldered a butt connector and heat shrinked over the connections.

 

[Dallara]

Where did you find your connectors if you don't mind?

IMHO, still the best place to get the best ceramic bulb connectors - the ones that have the really good copper spades - is still Susquehanna Motorsports at http://www.rallylights.com/

Just as mentioned in the first few pages of this thread. Here's the direct link to the page to order the connectors: http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/connectors/headlamp/cfc-female-ceramic-plug-includes-housing-and-terminals.html

Just make sure you order the correct ones. You'll two of the part number CPH7CFC - H7 for H7 bulbs. For the record, you will find similar ones all over the 'net and eBay that look pretty much the same, but Susquehanna is the only place I know you can be assured of getting the really good ones with the good copper spades...

I'm sure others will say that ones this good may not be necessary, but it seems to me as long as you are there you might as well use the best you can find.

Just my two centavos... YMMV.

Dallara



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[pqsqac]

Thanks Dallara good info to have. I don't have the over heating issue yet but a ounce of prevention pound of cure, or something like that.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[Combo]

Well, add my name to the cooked headlight harness list. I almost never ride at night, but the other evening I took a short ride, and had intermittent headlight action.

When I got the bike this February, I had been reading the forum and filed down the headlight connectors and added dielectric grease right away. I checked the connectors yesterday, and both are melting. I am going to do what EricV did, and solder on some ceramic connectors, and replace both bulbs at the same time, so any corrosion from the old bulbs is eliminated.

Dielectric grease is electrically insulating. Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. Because it is nonconductive it does not enhance the flow electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a nonconductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector.

This is why I recommend for the headlight connections using a conducting grease. If you use conducting grease at the connections the heat at the connection will go away......I promise! Wire sizes are good, it is the loss of connection that is causing the heat and then the melting.
Changing the stock connectors for improved connection will help if not solve the problem but I would also use conducting grease.

 

[burnoil]

Dallara...thanks for the linky and pics. I've ordered a pair of these to prevent any future meltdowns...literally!

 

[Dallara]

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Just for the record, that's Tenerator12's picture. I just used it because it was quick and handy, and it was of the proper one as supplied by Susquehanna Motorsports (RallyLights).

Here's some higher resolution pics of my own that may help to illustrate these high-quality connectors:

Lots more pictures of my actual melted factory headlamp sub-harness, it's various connectors, the various replacement parts, wire, shielding, etc. I bought to replace it, and other images related to the problem at the following links:

http://timetunnel.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Super-Tenere-Headlamp-Harness/20442228_sftzx3#!i=1617986040&k=9CScr5s

http://timetunnel.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Super-Tenere-Harness-Gallery-2/20460468_FDpbLq#!i=1619747614&k=5VrGJCR

http://timetunnel.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Super-Tenere-Harness-Gallery-3/20473428_zhMnDg#!i=1620913700&k=CQX6nmS

Note, too, that all this info, and all these links, etc., including the ones to Susquehanna Motorsports (RallyLights) were posted before early in the thread. Just check the first few pages. There really is a ton of good info in this thread for dealing with the problem, and it's worth reading it all the way through whether you have the issue or want to prevent it from happening in the future.

Just FYI... Hope it helps.

Dallara



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[bob dirt]

Where did you find your connectors if you don't mind?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I bought similar ceramic connectors that Dallara recommended, but they had pigtails. I used solder butt connectors I bought off Amazon to splice the wires.

Tyco Electronics Raychem SolderGrip. I had used these before to repair a wire harness on my Polaris ranger once.

 

[Mark R.]

Eric: Thanks for the update. I ordered a couple pre-soldered and wired connectors from a link on an earlier page. I hope to put them on this weekend.

Mark R.

 

[Mark R.]

No. You need the 90 degree ends.

 

[Mark R.]

I soldered on some 90 degree ceramic bulb connectors yesterday, and went for a ride this am. I took off the back covers after 30 miles, and there was a bunch of white dust on the inside of the covers, and it was stinky in there. The wires that actually go to the connectors, I have concluded, are just too small. They might be 18 gauge, at the most.

So when I got home, I went to Autozone and bought some 14 gauge wire, a relay, and some spade connectors and got busy. I used the blue headlight wire to trigger the relay, and ran 14 gauge all the way from the battery, through the relay, up to the ceramic connectors at the bulbs, and back to the battery. All connections are soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing, wrapped with electrical tape, and zip tied nice and neat where needed. This, hopefully, is a solution. 220 mile ride tomorrow, so I will find out.

 

[Dallara]

Thanks, I was afraid that was true. I paid $9.95 shipping plus around $15.00 for the two connectors. I guess I can pay another $4.00 for return shipping and minus the 15% restock get back like $12.00 for $30.00 spent on something that won't fit. I'll just trhow them in the trash.

As has been mentioned, you do need the 90-degree connectors.

Before you get too upset with Susquehanna/Rallylights give 'em a call and explain the situation. I have found them to be wonderful to deal with over the phone over the years, and on more than one occasion they have waived any re-stocking fee on a return and even sent me a return shipping label to get stuff back that was shipped in error. It has been my experience they wiil work with you to make things right and make you happy, even if it means they don't sell a thing.

But they do far better over the phone than trying to deal with them through their arcane and antiquated web site.

Just an FYI... Hope it helps!

Dallara



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[dcstrom]

I bought a couple of connectors that look just like this from a hole-in-the-wall auto parts shop in Bolivia. No solder connectors. I DO have a ton of Posi-Lock connectors though. Tell me why I shouldn't use them... (well sealed, of course).

Arrrgh just read the post from Dallara above about needing 90 degree connectors. They might be harder to find. At least I only paid $1 each for them! Still would like to know why I shouldn't use Posi-Lock once I find the right connectors.

I ordered the H7CFC that Dallara specified, but what I got is nothing that looks anything like Dallaras. These are all one piece and straight, not the right angle. Will these work?

 

[EricV]

I don't think there is any reason not to use Posi-locks. They make a good solid connection if you assemble them correctly. Not weather proof though.

The only reason not to use strait connectors is that the covers generally don't fit on the back of the headlights with them. Thus the 90º ones that Yamaha uses, and the reason to replace them with same when doing the ceramic upgrade.

 

[Kevhunts]

This is just my opinion and we all know what opinions are like but...
I believe those of you who are repairing your own wiring harnesses are doing yourselves and the members of this forum a diservice.
If these headlight issues go unreported and documented by the dealers, and most importantly repaired under warranty, Yamaha will never acknowledge there is a problem.

 

[EricV]

This is just my opinion and we all know what opinions are like but...
I believe those of you who are repairing your own wiring harnesses are doing yourselves and the members of this forum a diservice.
If these headlight issues go unreported and documented by the dealers, and most importantly repaired under warranty, Yamaha will never acknowledge there is a problem.

We've covered this before Kev. It's not that people disagree with you, it's just that many are not willing to wait for Yamaha to deal with it, or simply unwilling to risk failures on planned rides. And frankly, Yamaha is taking a page from BMW on this one and replacing the problem part with a new identical part. Rule #1 - Don't waste my time. Like for like on a problem part is wasting my time.

 

[Mark R.]

This is just my opinion and we all know what opinions are like but...
I believe those of you who are repairing your own wiring harnesses are doing yourselves and the members of this forum a diservice.
If these headlight issues go unreported and documented by the dealers, and most importantly repaired under warranty, Yamaha will never acknowledge there is a problem.

Kevin, Kawasaki has not acknowledged the weak Doohickey in the KLR - EVER, even though broken Doohickeys are responsible for many damaged KLR engines. It is up to us riders and forum members to find a fix in many cases, and as Eric stated, those of us fixing the headlight harness are wanting to have a reliable riding experience until - or if - Yamaha finds a fix for this issue. I don't agree that I did myself a disservice at all - mine is totally fixed now. I am happy. I did it myself. Time to move on to something else.

Manufacturers simply cannot or will not keep up with these sorts of things. That is why there is a massive automotive and motorcycle aftermarket - to bring solutions to the people quicker than the OEM's can.

Why don't you see if you can make some coin with this issue, and build and sell a retrofit kit to fix it? If you really want Tenere owners to have a reliable headlight harness fix, that would be the fastest way.

 

[Big Blu]

This is just my opinion and we all know what opinions are like but...
I believe those of you who are repairing your own wiring harnesses are doing yourselves and the members of this forum a diservice.
If these headlight issues go unreported and documented by the dealers, and most importantly repaired under warranty, Yamaha will never acknowledge there is a problem.

+ 1, I like the way you think Kevin.

I'd take it one step further and report the failures to the NHSTA in the USA.
If we accept shit products, there's no reason for the mfg to change. Let's not become the
Kool Aide drinking crowd like those other guys....

Regards, Paul

 

[Big Blu]

We've covered this before Kev. It's not that people disagree with you, it's just that many are not willing to wait for Yamaha to deal with it, or simply unwilling to risk failures on planned rides. And frankly, Yamaha is taking a page from BMW on this one and replacing the problem part with a new identical part. Rule #1 - Don't waste my time. Like for like on a problem part is wasting my time.

I hear that the part is on back order from Yamaha, are you certain the new part will be identical to the current one? I expect better from Yamaha.

Regards, Paul

 

[E.Engler]

My experience with the intermittent light failures started around 2k. Tried grease and would get about 200 miles before one or both would start to fail. I was always able to get at least one to function. Reported this at my 4k service and the tech tried the grease and asked me to watch it. The problem continued so returned to dealer 75k and it was diagnosed as the harness failing. They promptly ordered the harness which arrived in 5 days and installed it. I have a 2012 and ride with 2 others a 12 and a 13 that have had no issues. Seems like my dealer handled this fairly and did not have any delays in getting the parts.

 

[greg the pole]

We've covered this before Kev. It's not that people disagree with you, it's just that many are not willing to wait for Yamaha to deal with it, or simply unwilling to risk failures on planned rides. And frankly, Yamaha is taking a page from BMW on this one and replacing the problem part with a new identical part. Rule #1 - Don't waste my time. Like for like on a problem part is wasting my time.

most of us are out of warranty.
Besides, I was upgrading to HID lights, and found the issue while I was in there.
I told my dealer about it (and the shaft drive seal failure) even sent him the link to my blog write up..
the response was................................crickets......................................................