Clutch test

[serhan]

I need help on an issue. The bike was shifting hard and notchy, did the basket upgrade, measured all plates, replaced everything needing replacing, still notchy. Got it serviced and had the clutch fluid replaced, dealer says everything is normal.

The other day I opened up the clutch master reservoir and fluid was almost down to the bottom of the reservoir. Stopped by the shop today and picked up some dot4, topped it off, hope all is good. In case of any air bubble, I might need another clutch bleed.

Here is the test I performed with bike on center stand.

Start in neutral, real wheel stopped --- as expected
Pull in the clutch, put into 1st gear, rear wheel stopped --- as expected
Release the clutch lever and wheel starts spinning --- as expected
Pull in the clutch lever, rear wheel does not slow down nor stop --- not expected
Pull in the clutch lever, Hit rear brake, the wheel stops --- as expected

Should the wheel spin stop or slow down when in gear and clutch lever is pulled in? That's what I would have expected, but again some people say this clutch and transmission is different than others.

Can anyone try this and let me know what you observe? I tried even to put in my boot, but was unable to stop the rear wheel.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Dogdaze]

I had that exact same experience, EXACTLY THE SAME TEST! That was before I replaced with the new '14 clutch basket. Now, it still does it! I did initially replace all the clutch plates and steels too but the lurch forward whilst engaging first gear was almost frightening, so went back to the old clutch plates and shifts into gear much smoother now. The rear wheel spinning up is partly caused by a coupling effect caused by the oil while cold and not releasing all the plates enough.

 

[serhan]

Thanks very much. Good point, this test was with the engine from a cold start, I will try again after I ride it around.

 

[Juan]

Perfectly normal when the oil is cold, especially when using high viscosity oil. When you pull the clutch lever the plates slip against each other and viscous oil hampers the slip somewhat. When the oil warms up the viscosity is reduced, enabling more slippage of the plates and this improves disengagement of the transmission.

Notwithstanding, with a cold engine and with the clutch lever pulled in and the gear engaged, you should still be able to stop the wheel with your boots.

 

[OldRider]

There's nothing wrong with the rear wheel turning in gear with the clutch pulled in or even while in neutral. The S10 along with most all motorcycles has a constant mesh transmission and even when not engaged, the gears are turning all the time.

Aftermarket clutches generally have more surface area than stock clutches and while great for racing, they may not work very well for the street rider. With more surface are you're going to have a lot more drag which can make the bike want to pull forward with the clutch pulled in and a loud hard clunk when going into first.

In my opinion the best set up is stock plates, a 14 and up basket and along with a Barnett pressure plate. The Barnett pressure plate makes the clutch engage like magic. You might think the stock pressure plate works good until you ride a bike with the Barnett setup, the difference is like night and day. JMHO.

 

[Chuck B]

Iv'e had two S10's show up in my shop with complaints of notchy shifting. I disassembled and lubed the shift linkages...both were very happy. I'd recommend this be done at every oil change. Takes about 10 min to do it.

 

[serhan]

Thanks a lot!


I do take my S10 off road/gravel, I will clean and lube the linkages, since I am well overdue for a through cleaning.


S.

 

[Checkswrecks]

+1 to the descriptions about how the clutch functions, and
+1 to Chuck B on regularly cleaning and lubing the shift linkage.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=15230.0

Not addressed so far is that the clutch reservoir was nearly empty. You might check it again before too long to see if it was just due to normal plate wear which hadn't been noticed, or whether you actually lost fluid.

 

[Dogdaze]

Iv'e had two S10's show up in my shop with complaints of notchy shifting. I disassembled and lubed the shift linkages...both were very happy. I'd recommend this be done at every oil change. Takes about 10 min to do it.

That will help with shifting, but not the clutch drag described. I truly believe the clutch / gearbox on the the S10 is agricultural (read Scheisse), Suzuki's have the smoothest shifting gearboxes, period. As attested by my local Yamaha dealer, he also said Yamaha's are good, but nowhere near as smooth as Suzuki, and he has a Yamaha race team.

 

[OldRider]

+1 to the descriptions about how the clutch functions, and
+1 to Chuck B on regularly cleaning and lubing the shift linkage.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=15230.0

Not addressed so far is that the clutch reservoir was nearly empty. You might check it again before too long to see if it was just due to normal plate wear which hadn't been noticed, or whether you actually lost fluid.

It was probably left low. With brakes as the pads wear, the pistons move farther out and fluid moves into the caliper, but with the clutch it's just the opposite, as the plates wear the push rod move farther into the slave cylinder and the fluid in the master cylinder wil go up, not down.

 

[Checkswrecks]

It was probably left low. With brakes as the pads wear, the pistons move farther out and fluid moves into the caliper, but with the clutch it's just the opposite, as the plates wear the push rod move farther into the slave cylinder and the fluid in the master cylinder wil go up, not down.

Duh - true true - what was I thinking?

 

[Chuck B]

That will help with shifting, but not the clutch drag described. I truly believe the clutch / gearbox on the the S10 is agricultural (read Scheisse), Suzuki's have the smoothest shifting gearboxes, period. As attested by my local Yamaha dealer, he also said Yamaha's are good, but nowhere near as smooth as Suzuki, and he has a Yamaha race team.

Clutch drag is completely normal...

 

[tomatocity]

Iv'e had two S10's show up in my shop with complaints of notchy shifting. I disassembled and lubed the shift linkages...both were very happy. I'd recommend this be done at every oil change. Takes about 10 min to do it.

Or install a zerk and use a grease gun.