Clutch Master Kit Install

[holligl]

I have a rebuild kit and new diaphram on order. Does the master cylinder need to be removed from the handlebar to install the rebuilt kit? That's what is called out in the manual, but it wouldn't be the only place unneeded steps are detailed. I see the manual calls for the rebuild every two years, same as fluid change. This would be my first on a 2014 @ 95k mi. I figure the clutch gets a lot more work than the brakes so I will only change the fluid on the brakes. Fluid is always worse in the clutch master.

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[Sierra1]

. . . . I see the manual calls for the rebuild every two years, same as fluid change. . . .

 

[RCinNC]

Yikes, I better get on that rebuild schedule....I'm at 103,000 miles on the original master cylinder!

 

[Sierra1]

Every two years seems a little excessive.

 

[TenereGUY]

Change fluid every 2 yrs and I would remove the MC from handlebar. Makes it much easier... but if nothing is wrong keep the kit in standby on a shelf until you need it. IMHO.

 

[MattR]

My Zx14r manual calls for new caliper and M/C seals all round every second set of pads change!


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[MattR]

I have a rebuild kit and new diaphram on order. Does the master cylinder need to be removed from the handlebar to install the rebuilt kit? That's what is called out in the manual, but it wouldn't be the only place unneeded steps are detailed. I see the manual calls for the rebuild every two years, same as fluid change. This would be my first on a 2014 @ 95k mi. I figure the clutch gets a lot more work than the brakes so I will only change the fluid on the brakes. Fluid is always worse in the clutch master.

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If your kit came with the MC piston seal separate to the piston, it can be very fiddly to install the seal onto the piston without damaging it.


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[~TABASCO~]

No- I change them on the bars. The circlip is somewhat hard to get in and out but doable.

After you remove the old piston take a look. I’m sure it will have some funky wear on it. If so, I would highly suggest removing the slave cylinder and ‘washing’ all the crap out of it that originated from the top. Otherwise you will be rebuilding the slave soon.

If someone had 75-100K. Would just rebuild the top and bottom at once. It will feel and work so much better.

 

[holligl]

No- I change them on the bars. The circlip is somewhat hard to get in and out but doable.

After you remove the old piston take a look. I’m sure it will have some funky wear on it. If so, I would highly suggest removing the slave cylinder and ‘washing’ all the crap out of it that originated from the top. Otherwise you will be rebuilding the slave soon.

If someone had 75-100K. Would just rebuild the top and bottom at once. It will feel and work so much better.

Thanks. The OEM slave is sold as a whole (~$120). No rebuild kit. The master kit is on it's way so I will see how the top looks. I've been pretty consistent in flushing the clutch and brakes.

I have not done any brake master overhauls either. I will see how this goes.

BTW - I sent you a message on another topic, if you can look for it.

 

[TenereGUY]

The rebuild isn't hard. Just be sure to prelube all rubber before you install it. Only mishap I have ever had was on my ST1300. After the rebuild and 7 miles down the road after several stops... the clutch started slipping. I limped home and took it apart. Nothing wrong. Sure seemed like the pressure/fluid return orifice was plugged. I flushed it hard with Brakleen into a clean white bowl. I finally flushed out a tiny sliver out of the MC housing. I think it was clogging the return. Put it all back together and it works great to this day.

 

[holligl]

The rebuild isn't hard. Just be sure to prelube all rubber before you install it. Only mishap I have ever had was on my ST1300. After the rebuild and 7 miles down the road after several stops... the clutch started slipping. I limped home and took it apart. Nothing wrong. Sure seemed like the pressure/fluid return orifice was plugged. I flushed it hard with Brakleen into a clean white bowl. I finally flushed out a tiny sliver out of the MC housing. I think it was clogging the return. Put it all back together and it works great to this day.

Did you remove the master from the handlebars or leave it in place?

 

[holligl]

Well here are my pics for the record. Total cost was $50 plus fluid. Kit and the diaphram with shipping. One of those jobs that takes three times longer the first time.

View still mounted on handle bars. My cheap circlip pliers wouldn't work at this angle. Had to remove and extend the ends to maximum length. Easier and little added effort. The circlip and pliers angle has to be just right. Tight fit.

After getting the circlip out.

Old and new. Not bad for 95k mi. A little tricky getting the seals on the piston. Make sure you get them pointing the right way. Lube with brake fluid. I used a couple of those sharp thin pointy tools. Only a little blood was shed.

The diaphram and push pin rubber was the worst shape.

I used some silicone on the push pin boot. Pushes into a small outer groove after the circlip is firmly seated. Here is where I made my mistake. The push pin has a round end and flat end. The round end goes in and flat end out to go in the lever bush. I did it backwards and primed forever with no pressure build. Finally took it apart and relooked at the parts diagram. (I did not find any instructions in the manual.)

Make sure to clean, polish, and lube the bush in the lever.

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