Hi all, have done searches and cant find what i am looking for. I had trouble changing down on my last ride, the lever moves ok, but it doesnt change down. This can be from any gear to any gear. I had to ride 3 miles of filtering between traffic and was using the clutch alot. After that i had the problem. If i pumped the clutch i could change down. I had a look at the level, however its quite small and not level so its not easy to see a level. I believe it may need to be bled i just dont know. Please forgive me if i am being stupid as its my first hydrolic clutch. Bike is 2015 ES 4300 mls.
Clutch Fluid level
- Thread starter fac191
- Start date
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
I would start by lubing the shifter, that is likely the culprit (look up shifter thread on the search function)and go from there, the fluid reservoir only needs a small amount, so don't overfill, but make sure that there is enough (over half way).
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Trust me (and everyone else on here) the gear lever may 'feel' ok, but if you spend the five minutes to disassemble, lube and reassemble it's well worth it ( watch out for the thin washer), also, dirty engine oil will cause shifting issues. While you're at it ensure the clutch lever is not getting hung up either.
tomatocity
Active Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
I would bet 100 to 1 that it is not the clutch fluid level and is the Shifter Lube. Just difficult for 9 out of 10 riders to believe this. January 16, 2012 I was experiencing this while riding through Yosemite. Pulled over in Lee Vining. I could only shift down to 3rd. Thought it was the transmission so I turned terminated the Las Vegas trip and returned home. After I got home I sprayed a blip of WD-40 on the shifter bushing and the shifter worked easily. Caught a flight to Las Vegas where it rained 2 out of 4 days. Got home and removed the shifter pivot bolt and found it dry. Cleaned lubed reinstalled shifted better than new. I lubed it about every 6,000 miles. Had installed a zerk on the 2012 which made it easy to lube. Still need to install a zerk on the 2015.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
What happens I believe is that the lever moves easily by foot, and does not appear to bind or stick. However the mechanism depends on an internal spring to return the mechanism all the way to the top after a downshift or an attempted downshift. If there's any excess friction and the lever does not return fully and cleanly to the top, the internal shift pawl does not return far enough to engage the next tooth on the shift drum. I guess Yamaha could have fitted a stronger return spring but perhaps they felt that affected shift fell / quality too much.
I don't know if anyone has tried it but it would seem to me, when this condition occurs, that lifting lightly (not hard enough to cause an up-shift) on the shift lever before attempting the down shift might manually return the mechanism fully, then allowing a downshift?
I don't know if anyone has tried it but it would seem to me, when this condition occurs, that lifting lightly (not hard enough to cause an up-shift) on the shift lever before attempting the down shift might manually return the mechanism fully, then allowing a downshift?
Xt1200zsupertenere
New Member
Clean and Grease clutchlever ( silikone Grease ) and gear lever pivot ( normal Grease )
Thanks to everyone. I cleaned and lubed it and it appears ok. I havent been for a long ride yet but having read everything i believe this must be the cause. its not obvious though as the lever freely moves you tend to discount it. But if your having problems i would say this is the best place to start. Thanks again.
I know this is old but the information here saved my trip through the Canadian Rockies. I could not shift below 3rd gear, thought transmission was going bad. Stopped and did a search here and followed the wd40 advice. Shifts like new. I love this forum. Lonslo