Do yourself a favor and put in the Barnett clutch spring kit while you're at it. You won't realize how bad the stock clutch releases until you use this kit.
Clutch Basket Remove/Upgrade/Installation
- Thread starter Koinz
- Start date
Kurgan
Well-Known Member
Same, ordered the new ball since it was so cheap. And same, my gasket was folded and creased. Calling Partzilla tomorrow to remedy that.
Kurgan
Well-Known Member
During a 3 hour interruption after everything had just been torn down, I had uninvited "help" with organizing my work bench, including moving and stacking the plates, baskets, hub, etc. that I had just laid out as I wanted. 
I've managed to not have a cardiac event and am in the process of putting it back together. I do need some clarification on the installation of plates 1 and 2, please..
The manual calls for "aligning a projection" on friction Plate 1 with the punch mark on the clutch housing/basket. What is the projection on the plate? Is that what they call the half-moon cut outs on the friction plate fingers, like I've pointed to with blue arrows on an existing installation pic from earlier in this thread? Am I simply to make sure those notched fingers are 4 and 5 slots offset to the left? I'd love to see "wrong" and "right" Plate 1 installations in that basket.
Thanks in advance for any guidance offered. .
I've managed to not have a cardiac event and am in the process of putting it back together. I do need some clarification on the installation of plates 1 and 2, please..The manual calls for "aligning a projection" on friction Plate 1 with the punch mark on the clutch housing/basket. What is the projection on the plate? Is that what they call the half-moon cut outs on the friction plate fingers, like I've pointed to with blue arrows on an existing installation pic from earlier in this thread? Am I simply to make sure those notched fingers are 4 and 5 slots offset to the left? I'd love to see "wrong" and "right" Plate 1 installations in that basket.
Thanks in advance for any guidance offered. .
Boris
Well-Known Member
Does this help?
Kurgan
Well-Known Member
Boris, I'm not sure that diagram is any more clear than the shop manual. Ideally, I would like a pic of the outer plate showing what the "projection" is. Japanese manuals translated to English, something is always lost. Same sort of thing occurs in the shop manual for the 2014 FZ09 I was servicing a few years back.
Here's the original 2013 basket. What are those other marks, the > and <, used for?
Does the new basket also have them? No power in the garage so I can't get a decent look to see if they are present.
Here's the original 2013 basket. What are those other marks, the > and <, used for?
Does the new basket also have them? No power in the garage so I can't get a decent look to see if they are present.
Boris
Well-Known Member
The way I understood it when I did mine, was that all the plates align in the same channel, except the last one which sits in the next channel, as per your pic in post 343. Mine 14+ basket has been in for over 20k miles with no issues.
the dots/dimples I recall being a bit confused, however I just followed a couple of guides I had.
the dots/dimples I recall being a bit confused, however I just followed a couple of guides I had.
sierraoffroad
no matter where you go: there you are!
Im digging up an old thread here. I just received the parts to do this on my 2013
And after opening the clutch discs I forgot to mark which plate is #2. They all look exactly the same except for #1 obviously
All the notches are the same
And after opening the clutch discs I forgot to mark which plate is #2. They all look exactly the same except for #1 obviously
All the notches are the same
Last edited:
Might want to message the resident expert, TABASCO. He can probably also give you some tips on the install. Good luck.
sierraoffroad
no matter where you go: there you are!
Thank you
I should have paid attention to #11
I do see that one of the friction plates has blue paint on it verses all of the other identical plates
I should have paid attention to #11
I do see that one of the friction plates has blue paint on it verses all of the other identical plates
sierraoffroad
no matter where you go: there you are!
Thank you very very much
For this thread and thank you Tabasco
I took my old plates out exactly as I found them
I marked them with a paint pen and painted the old basket dot
Where they were aligned with
I paid close attention to wether the numbers on the friction plates were facing out or in and how the metal plates were oriented
I then replaced the basket and began the new clutch installation
as I placed a new clutch plate in the bike
I placed an old plate in the old basket as it came out
this was like doing 2 clutches at once but was a huge help
I flushed the clutch master cylinder
i rode the bike a few different times mainly long steep hills with no slipping or any issues
I stopped on a very steep hill and took off slowly and the clutch grab was very nice and smooth
thank you all especially
TABASCO
For this thread and thank you Tabasco
I took my old plates out exactly as I found them
I marked them with a paint pen and painted the old basket dot
Where they were aligned with
I paid close attention to wether the numbers on the friction plates were facing out or in and how the metal plates were oriented
I then replaced the basket and began the new clutch installation
as I placed a new clutch plate in the bike
I placed an old plate in the old basket as it came out
this was like doing 2 clutches at once but was a huge help
I flushed the clutch master cylinder
i rode the bike a few different times mainly long steep hills with no slipping or any issues
I stopped on a very steep hill and took off slowly and the clutch grab was very nice and smooth
thank you all especially
TABASCO
miningminer
New Member
Question on the clutch rattle, does it actually affect anything or is it just the worn springs rattling in their retaining slots? If it has no effect other than noise/comfort I’m inclined to leave it alone.
Boris
Well-Known Member
just for clarity sake, this is only a Gen1 bike I’m talking about. Yes, worsening noise and comfort are the outcome of the clutch basket flaw. A replacement basket does lead to a smoothing out and slightly quicker pick up of the revs. The original basket was NOT an actual mechanical failure nor any more likely to lead to a failure. Not all bikes were/are affected.
Comfort? I found it highly annoying with a massive degradation in comfort and enjoyability
to have that level of vibration right at one of the most highly used rpm levels. Changed mine out shortly after getting the bike. Would have sold it if could not have fixed it.
Last edited:
Slags
Member
You made this sound easy… where are you located and will you work on my 13’?
Thanks Slags
Slags
Member
Do you happen to have the part numbers? would you do this for my bike? Thanks Slags
Boris
Well-Known Member
You need parts 1 & 22, although I reused part 22 when I did mine. You will also possibly need a clutch cover gasket, I also reused my old one.
I’ve also included a link to a document that has full info on how to complete this work. It’s a pretty straightforward job, however you will need a torque wrench that goes to 130nm and a clutch holding tool.
I’ve also included a link to a document that has full info on how to complete this work. It’s a pretty straightforward job, however you will need a torque wrench that goes to 130nm and a clutch holding tool.
flatgrind
Member
I know this thread is a couple years old, but I just thought I would ask if this (black 55lbs.) is still your advice?I installed the Barnett MT-58 Springs (Black , 55 lbs @22.3mm). She pulled like a scalded ape right through to 7K.
Hope that does it for issues as I am tired of being a mechanic. Time to ride.
So for anybody installing the Barnett friction plates, spring pressure plate and retaining the stock drive plates I would recommend the aforementioned springs. Adds a little bit more lever tension is all.
If I had it all to do over I proly would have went ahead and purchased the Barnet drives plates as well as they may be a skosh thicker than stock.
I'm about to put the new basket on my 2012 along with the Barnett pressure plates, and I'm trying to decide which spring weight to go with.
FWIW and for people referencing this thread later on, my Barnett plate shipped with three sets of springs:
- MT-18 Gold 32lbs @ 22.3mm (short)
- MT-58 Black 55lbs @ 22.3 mm
- MT-13 Gold 70lbs @ 22.3mm (long)
Tenman
Well-Known Member
Some of the best info on here is over 10 years old
flatgrind
Member
That’s for sure. A couple of these clutch threads are very good. Thank you to all the guys who have posted on these. It’s great to have this kind of stuff online as a resource.
Barring feedback from someone who has already done this, my thinking at this point is to alternate the medium and heavy springs and see how that goes.