Hi guys. I was curious if anyone knows if there is a way to adjust the clutch on our bikes. Mine shifts a little rough ecspecislly from 1-2. When I am coasting with the bike in 1st and rev the engine slightly I can feel the clutch catch slightly. I looked in the service manual but I didn't see anything in there for adjustment of the clutch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW I did check the clutch fluid level and everything looks good.
Clutch adjustment
- Thread starter A19pilot
- Start date
Can you explain what you mean by, a little rough? There is no adjustment on the clutch. It is hydraulic and not like a cable setup.
I've never tried coasting and revving the engine to feel if the clutch changed. I may have to give that a try..
Sorry can't help more..
I've never tried coasting and revving the engine to feel if the clutch changed. I may have to give that a try..
Sorry can't help more..
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
The first step would be to bleed the clutch line, just in case you have some air in the line that is preventing full clutch movement. I've not heard of it happening on the S10, but sticky clutch plates can also cause this. Sometimes this gets better over time if the bike has very low miles. Other times it doesn't. Pulling the clutch plates out and soaking them in oil over night solves the problem.
Have you discussed this with your dealer? You should be under warranty, yes?
Edit - Please fill out your profile a bit. If I understand, you're in Australia, so may have had the bike longer and be out of warranty. Or perhaps you are younger and fly an Airbus?
Have you discussed this with your dealer? You should be under warranty, yes?
Edit - Please fill out your profile a bit. If I understand, you're in Australia, so may have had the bike longer and be out of warranty. Or perhaps you are younger and fly an Airbus?
Often at times while I am stuck in traffic riding home from work I can have the clutch pulled all the way in, then blip the throttle. I can feel the bike slightly move, as if the trans is engaged a bit. I haven't bled the system yet and know this may help what I experience. Does this happen to anyone else? I am still using Yamaha standard oil NOT SYNTHETIC!!!
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Why are you doing this?HoebSTer said:
zartenere
New Member
replace the oil
Sounds like excessive clutch drag. Other consistent symptoms would be difficulty getting the bike into neutral, a bigger than normal "bang" when you engage 1st from neutral, and occasionally reluctant shifting. If you have the bike on the centerstand with it running and in gear, normal clutch drag should allow you to stick your boot against the tire and stop the tire. If you can't, then you've likely got a problem.HoebSTer said:
As has been said, the clutch has no adjustment per se. How much "push" you get at the clutch when the clutch lever is pulled is set by the ratio of the hydraulics between the master cylinder and slave cylinder and there is no free-play adjustment.
Bleeding would be a first thing to try. Air in the system would cause insufficient disengagement of the clutch and would also give the clutch lever a "spongy" feel compared to the normal firm feel of a properly bleed system. If you have an issue with the master or slave cylinders not holding pressure, this would likely manifest itself as the clutch initially disengaging when you first pull the lever, but tending to engage slowly afterwards.
Another possibility is that there is something internally wrong with the clutch - warped steel or friction plates, swollen plates, a mfg defect with the clutch basket, etc. This occasionally happens with a new bike. Has the clutch ever been abused? If so, this would raise the probability you have an internal issue rather than a hydraulics issue.
If the bike is under warranty, I'd let the dealer deal with it.
- Mark
I do this as I am about to let out the clutch to keep flow with traffic. Once I felt it doing this, I felt a little bit closer to what it was doing.EricV said:
The oil has only 1000 miles on it, so should be good. There hasn't been any abuse of the clutch. I don't notice it hard to shift from 1st-2nd or even trying to find neutral. All is good there. I will just bleed someday soon to see if it changes. I am not too worried as I only notice when creeping along 2-5mph only. The rear wheel does stop while on center stand in gear and I put my hand or foot on it.
RogerJ
Waypoint Wanderer
::026:: on the bleed the clutch. When very new (about 1000 kms or so) my clutch feel was very hard and lurchy neutral into first and not cleanly shifting. My Dealer bled the clutch and found a bubble. After that clutch action has been fine. That would be a simple first step. Good luck.
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
That all sounds pretty normal. The OP has the difficult shifting 1-2 that would indicate more of an issue though.HoebSTer said:
This is exactly what happens to me. I was thinking it is because the clutch is not fully disengaging.HoebSTer said:
I have not abused the clutch at all. I think I will take it in to the stealer and see if they can find an air bubble in it or something.
As to why I blip the throttle at a stoplight.... Because it sounds badass.
Sounds to me like you have nothing wrong with your clutch and you simply are mis-interpreting the small fore/aft rock you get when you blip the throttle as forward motion. Throttle blipping has become something of an anachronism - folks used to do it to keep plugs clean, the motor cleared out, and to deal with ragged idle speeds, but with modern FI systems and electronic ignitions, our bikes will happily idle smoothly for days at a time.
- Mark
- Mark
Mark, don't throw perfectly good logic in here.
To me, the system sounds fine. A normal characteristic.
---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?mzjhnx
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To me, the system sounds fine. A normal characteristic.
---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?mzjhnx
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mark I also feel a slight catching when I am coasting along in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in and I blip the throttle. Like when I am in a parking lot going slow. it may very well be air in the line. My front brake feels a little spongy as well. I don't trust the dealer that put it together. Do they charge the brake systems when they are putting it together or does it come from the factory like that?
Factory delivered and tested for the clutch and brakes.
Before the gripping thoughts of conspiracy theories and dealer stealers take more of a winter weather hold on everyone go and compare against someone else's known good Tenere.
---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?kyqtbe
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Before the gripping thoughts of conspiracy theories and dealer stealers take more of a winter weather hold on everyone go and compare against someone else's known good Tenere.
---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?kyqtbe
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tin foil hat to you, troll to me.
First it's a clutch item that you get a very good explanation on, then an apparent lack of understanding of the clutch and how it works, a further explanation, and then a sudden addition of a brake issue with another apparent lack of understanding of how your bike is built and delivered.
Go test it against another bike and/or have it documented through your dealer. This is the purpose of your warranty as well as the protection it affords to you as a consumer in the future should an issue come to light down the road.
And to add more, define down when exactly it does this. Is it when cold? Hot? All the time? Is it consistent or does it wax and wane? If it waxes and wanes, when?
First it's a clutch item that you get a very good explanation on, then an apparent lack of understanding of the clutch and how it works, a further explanation, and then a sudden addition of a brake issue with another apparent lack of understanding of how your bike is built and delivered.
Go test it against another bike and/or have it documented through your dealer. This is the purpose of your warranty as well as the protection it affords to you as a consumer in the future should an issue come to light down the road.
And to add more, define down when exactly it does this. Is it when cold? Hot? All the time? Is it consistent or does it wax and wane? If it waxes and wanes, when?
EJV
Blue.
If you are like me, warp some damn clutch plates at 16,000 miles (10 months).
Clutch Drag:
-On Center Stand any temp - wheel wants to spin with the Clutch IN.
-Hotter the Operating Temp, the more noticable the drag (cheers to all you throttle blippers).
-Clutch out, Idle in Neutral, then Clutch in for a while, Clunks into First (didn't do that new).
Gear Change 1 to 2 or 2 to 1 when HOT (200f) are "notchy". Neutral can be a bear. Stop and Go traffic can be a real PITA.
Oh, I put 30,000 miles (2yrs) on a R-1200GSA and was not able to kill the DRY clutch. (Well, the BMW oil seal puking did that.) So, scratching my head on the Wet Clutch.
Yamaha says "Bar Grabber Error".
Sigh. Of course.
To make this interesting, note the color change from out to in:
Clutch Drag:
-On Center Stand any temp - wheel wants to spin with the Clutch IN.
-Hotter the Operating Temp, the more noticable the drag (cheers to all you throttle blippers).
-Clutch out, Idle in Neutral, then Clutch in for a while, Clunks into First (didn't do that new).
Gear Change 1 to 2 or 2 to 1 when HOT (200f) are "notchy". Neutral can be a bear. Stop and Go traffic can be a real PITA.
Oh, I put 30,000 miles (2yrs) on a R-1200GSA and was not able to kill the DRY clutch. (Well, the BMW oil seal puking did that.) So, scratching my head on the Wet Clutch.
Yamaha says "Bar Grabber Error".
Sigh. Of course.
To make this interesting, note the color change from out to in:
Koinz
Active Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Honestly, I don't understand how there isn't any clutch drag in a wet multiple disc clutch. That's alot of surface area and fairly minimal clearance that oil has to get in there and lubricate the discs. I guess the thinner oil the better, I'm using yamalube 10w-50 semi synthetic. I also get a little clunk going into first gear. Less than I got on my Vstrom though.
My BMW Dry clutch never had this behaviour at all, but you always had to let the clutch out just a little to get it into first gear. I guess to line up the constant meshed gears. It was never a problem and sold the bike with the original clutch after 60K miles. ::012::
On the topic of the disc's being wet, since our bikes are dry sump, our clutch most likely has a trough of oil it's bathing in, correct? or maybe some oil jet's spraying oil on them. ???
I'm sure what you're experiencing is pretty normal wet clutch behaviour, but if you feel it's an issue, by all means get it to the dealer.
My BMW Dry clutch never had this behaviour at all, but you always had to let the clutch out just a little to get it into first gear. I guess to line up the constant meshed gears. It was never a problem and sold the bike with the original clutch after 60K miles. ::012::
On the topic of the disc's being wet, since our bikes are dry sump, our clutch most likely has a trough of oil it's bathing in, correct? or maybe some oil jet's spraying oil on them. ???
I'm sure what you're experiencing is pretty normal wet clutch behaviour, but if you feel it's an issue, by all means get it to the dealer.