Cheap but good DIY TB sync tool

jaeger22

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I am sure there are some fine (but some what expensive) tools out there that you can use to sync the Throttle Bodies but I am a cheap SOB so when I fine something that is dirt cheap and works as well and any others I am a happy camper! ::018::
Here is my DIY "tool" for syncing the throttle bodies on the S10. I have use this set up many times on several bikes including a 4 cylinder. I believe it is at least as accurate and fast to use ans any you can buy and it should cost you about $15 or less and about 20 minutes time once you have the materials. And the materials are available almost anywhere.
It is basically just 10 feet or so of clear tubing with some ATF in it and adapters to fit the S10 TB attachments. There is nothing critical except getting the connections air tight so it is hard to mess up.
Here is what mine looks like:


The red stuff at the bottom of the loop is the ATF. You could use any fluid but ATF is a good bright red and also if you mess up and suck it into the TB's (hard to do but possible) the ATF will do no permanent harm to the motor.

The adapter for the right TB is just a small piece of brass tubing connecting a short length of 1/8" (or 3/16 will work also) Vacuum line (rubber tubing) from Auto Zone. You can also get the plastic adapters from a auto parts store instead of the brass tube. Here is a picture of the right TB adapter:


The orange string is just to make it a tight connection.

Same idea on the left TB but on the S10 you have to have a little vacuum line "T" connector no matter what tool you use. (see the manual if that does not make sense) here is a picture of my left side adapter:


To use it is supper simple once you have it hooked up the the TB's. Again, see the manual for how to do that. Make SURE you have both sides hooked up before you start the motor and NEVER pull off one side while the motor is running or it will suck in the ATF. ??? Hang the tubing so you can see it as you adjust. Leave a couple of feet of clear tubing above the loop with the ATF in it.
Start the motor and turn the adjustment screw until you see this:


The ATF is light and VERY sensitive. It doesn't make any difference which side of the loop is connected to which TB, just turn the adjustment screw the way that makes the levels come together.
 

Koinz

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I made one as well. The only thing I did different was attached the hose to a .50 cent yard stick so it's easier to see if it's level. It works just fine.
 

jaeger22

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Yep, good point Koinz, i forgot about that. I did something similar at first as well but just a board with 1" horizontal lines that i placed behind the tubes, but after using it a few times, I decided I didn't really need it. Works fine either way.
 

markjenn

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You guys are clever and probably have more money in the bank than me, but I bought a Morgan Carbtune a few years back and would never go back to manometers again.

- Mark
 

Koinz

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markjenn said:
You guys are clever and probably have more money in the bank than me, but I bought a Morgan Carbtune a few years back and would never go back to manometers again.

- Mark
I do have a Harmonizer and when I recently checked the throttle sync after 2 years syncing with my manometer, it was pretty much dead on. The solid shaft between the throttle bodies doesn't make it necessary to continually re-check. Other bikes with separate throttle would need it. Another low maintenance item on our bikes ::008::
 

Checkswrecks

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I splurged and used 20 feet with coolant. The vise grips hanging on a small piece of wire are at the center and make the tubes hang straighter.
 

jaeger22

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Wow! That picture looks very much like my set up when I sync the TB's. Even the bike looks almost identical. Except my work shop would have a lot more junk in the background! LOL ::025::
 

Checkswrecks

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t2sfd said:
Manometers for TB Synch are calibrated in "inches of water". Does the ATF have the same specific gravity as water? I've made a similar type tool, only I used food dye to color the water.

I use coolant and it is nearly the same, but what fluid you use really doesn't matter.


Even if you were to use oil or mercury, the point is to make the heights of the fluid equal in the two tubes when you are done. The difference in properties would mean that one tube might show higher than the other when you begin, but you still would bring them together.


I prefer to use coolant or ATF because they have some color and there'd be no damage if the engine were to swallow the small amount in the tube.
 
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