Change to manual cct,the short version

12master

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hello,changed my cct to a manual one,only take me less than a hour ,no biggie, basically remove side fairings, remove bolts at front of gas tank so you can lifts the tank all the way (disconnect fuel sender and fuel pump connector first), take off side cover for clutch, find a way to keep the chain guide from moving back, and just change the old crappy cct to the new one, put everything back and you done! first start and silence is gold!!!!!!!!! tried to load pictures but they are too large and don't know how to reduce the size!
 

tomatocity

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Re: cct change ,the short version

Congratulations!

What year is your Tenere? What Tensioner did you use?
 

12master

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Re: cct change ,the short version

bike is a 2012, only 17k miles ,just bought the bike two weeks ago from another member here, but the bike was making a loud noise half of the time at stat up, and since I have a range rover that has the same problem I can not have that in my bike! ,I used a ape unit from ebay, $55 and my bike is so quiet now!!!!!!!!!!!
 

12master

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Re: cct change ,the short version

No sir, the gasket stays on the cover side and is perfectly reusable, just put it back same way no leaks
 

12master

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Re: cct change ,the short version

I have two other bikes in the past that needed the same fix so I know what i needed to do. Basically as explained x other teneristas if the cct is too loose the chain will start making noise, and if you adjust it to much you can hear a whinning noise from the chaing guide. I will say that the best way to do it is to adjust it in till it start winning and just go back about half a turn. If you turn it too loose the chain will start making noise. Just make sure when you install the manual cct that you put enough force on the chain guide to prevent the chain to jump! The ape cct unit I used has a large 5/8 nut at the end so was easy to turn all tje way in by hand.
 

Checkswrecks

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Changed the title to emphasize this is a change to a manual unit.
 

fredz43

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Thank you for that report 12Master. A couple of things I have found when raising the tank is that if you replace those 2 side bolts with hex head I can then reach them with my 10mm ratcheting wrench by just removing the rear 3 screws in the left fairing and reaching in with that wrench. That saves the hassle of reinstalling that fairing piece. Also I have found that I can raise the tank all the way back on the rear pivot bolt by just taking the 2 rubber vent and drain hoses out of the clamping bracket on the lower left side of the engine and then raising the tank without unhooking the fuel pump ofrsending unit. I have only had to unhook them when completely removing the tank.
 
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