Cartridge disassembly for revalve

[AndyCBR]

Any tips or online how to for this?

I have rebuilt plenty of forks but never been inside my S10 cartridges.

It is my understanding there is some factory peening that can be time consuming to remove and easy to F up.

Planning on installing the Stoltec kit but Nick no longer does installation.

Thanks in advance.

 

[NorWest]

It really isn't a big deal, Leave the nut tight and then using a file just file the peening flush with the nut then remove the nut and clean off the sharp edges and put a slight radius to the tip of the threads. That way the oem piston and stack will slide off with no issues. When it comes to re-assembly a touch of red loctite and torque to 30 lbs in. I would recommend getting new self locking nuts if you don't already have them or if Stoltec doesn't supply them.

 

[RED CAT]

I assume we are talking non ES bike here?

 

[blitz11]

Better yet, go with Traxxion Dynamics Compression valving. Those come as an assembly with the piston, valving ( shim stack ), and the aluminum support - you don't have to do anything but swap them out. No removing the peening, no messing around, and it's probably cheaper (i think i paid $175 through Trackside suspension in Wisconsin (i was in Minneapolis at the time)).

I used this on my S-10, and i could not be happier (at the time i did it (fall 2014), Nic got out of the S-10 business, so i went with Traxxion). so happy, in fact, that i bought another penske shock and the AK-20 fork inserts for my KTM 690 duke. Traxxion rocks the house. I think NorWest above is a Traxxion Dealer - he could probably arrange the deal.

 

[AndyCBR]

It really isn't a big deal, Leave the nut tight and then using a file just file the peening flush with the nut then remove the nut and clean off the sharp edges and put a slight radius to the tip of the threads. That way the oem piston and stack will slide off with no issues. When it comes to re-assembly a touch of red loctite and torque to 30 lbs in. I would recommend getting new self locking nuts if you don't already have them or if Stoltec doesn't supply them.

Thanks for the help.

Is there any peening/loctite to get the compression assembly out of the cartridge body? Some write-ups show the use of heat, hammering, and even drilling on that part also.

 

[AndyCBR]

I assume we are talking non ES bike here?

Yes, 2012.

 

[AndyCBR]

Better yet, go with Traxxion Dynamics Compression valving. Those come as an assembly with the piston, valving ( shim stack ), and the aluminum support - you don't have to do anything but swap them out. No removing the peening, no messing around, and it's probably cheaper (i think i paid $175 through Trackside suspension in Wisconsin (i was in Minneapolis at the time)).

I used this on my S-10, and i could not be happier (at the time i did it (fall 2014), Nic got out of the S-10 business, so i went with Traxxion). so happy, in fact, that i bought another penske shock and the AK-20 fork inserts for my KTM 690 duke. Traxxion rocks the house. I think NorWest above is a Traxxion Dealer - he could probably arrange the deal.

I'm committed to Nicks setup as I have the parts in hand. The Traxxion option looks great but they are only sold as an "in house" option. By the time I ship forks there and pay shop fees it is not a consideration form a savings standpoint.

BTW I have AK20's on another bike and they are awesome. But it is definitely the "cadillac" option.

Honestly the front end is not terrible once you get it sprung properly. But, the harsh compression damping is a killer on washboard and rocky terrain.

 

[gunner]

I did mine last year and here is what I learned.

I disassembled the forks per the service manual no problems.

The valves go in the rod damping unit, which is sold by Yamaha as a unit, individual parts are NOT available, so if you mess up something in the unit then a new one costs between $350 and $267.

I did not have the proper tools to disassemble the rod damping unit so I contacted a local Yamaha dealer who would not touch them but recommended a local racing shop, LCS racing.

www.lcsraciing.com

The owner of the shop disassembled the units for me and milled off the peening. He warned me that you do not want to try getting into the units without the proper tools because the metal is soft and easy to mess up. The metal posts the valves sit on are also VERY soft metal and easy to mess up.

So my recommendation is to take your damping rod units to a good racing suspension shop and have them disassembled.

 

[blitz11]

I'm committed to Nicks setup as I have the parts in hand. The Traxxion option looks great but they are only sold as an "in house" option. By the time I ship forks there and pay shop fees it is not a consideration form a savings standpoint.

BTW I have AK20's on another bike and they are awesome. But it is definitely the "cadillac" option.

Honestly the front end is not terrible once you get it sprung properly. But, the harsh compression damping is a killer on washboard and rocky terrain.

I didn't know that you had your valves already. Sorry.

I did my valves myself - they were supplied from Traxxion to Trackside, who provided them to me.

I concur above - the aluminum used by Yamaha's supplier is REALLY soft - addressing the peening has to be done super carefully.

The transformation in the front end was huge with good valving - you'll be happy.

i haven't ridden the duke with the AK-20s, but if it is as good as the valving traxxion supplied for the super 10, i'll be happy.

good luck.

 

[NorWest]

Thanks for the help.

Is there any peening/loctite to get the compression assembly out of the cartridge body? Some write-ups show the use of heat, hammering, and even drilling on that part also.

Yes KYB base assembly's can be a pain to get out. A little heat there can go a long way. As far as hammering I have had others tap the thread section where the base assembly screws in VERY lightly with a hammer and that helps loosen the base assembly. Also ideally you would have a cartridge holder or blocks to clamp the cartridge tube securely without damage.

Yes there is peening on the compression post as well, It is a 43 KYB and they are all relatively soft aluminum material and will break if you don't file the end flush first.

To remove the damper rod you would either remove the oil lock or use the cartridge removing tool to unscrew the top seal head.

I realize you are a ways away but if you just sent the cartridges I could turn them around in one day, But understood if you want to keep it local.

 

[AndyCBR]

Thanks for the help and tips. I am sure patience goes a long way on this job. It is shocking how soft the aluminum is on the fork cap alone so it wouldn't take much ham fisting to tear something up.

I may take you up on your offer.

I was planning on buying the cartridge split blocks if I did attempt it myself. I have the cartridge holding tool, soft jaws, etc. for USD fork work.


BTW, ID is a beautiful state. I was running the IDBDR last Summer and didn't make it all the way through due to crashing around Lolo Pass.

 

[NorWest]

Thanks for the help and tips. I am sure patience goes a long way on this job. It is shocking how soft the aluminum is on the fork cap alone so it wouldn't take much ham fisting to tear something up.

I may take you up on your offer.

I was planning on buying the cartridge split blocks if I did attempt it myself. I have the cartridge holding tool, soft jaws, etc. for USD fork work.


BTW, ID is a beautiful state. I was running the IDBDR last Summer and didn't make it all the way through due to crashing around Lolo Pass.

Yeah patience and common sense as I have seen where the installer would just force things instead of step back and take a look at it.

If you have those tools then just add the blocks and you should be good to go.

I have never run the IDBDR but have a couple customers that have and I guess it is a very nice ride.

 

[Stoned]

Did my forks in January with Race Tech Gold Valves. The hardest part was getting the cartridges loose from the tube. The lock tight used by the factory was first rate stuff. I used A LOT of heat and finally broke them loose, but for a while I had my doubts. After that it is pretty straight forward. A little filing on the cartridges themselves to release the nut, but not bad. I was not real unhappy with the stock setup, but I am extremely happy with how they perform now. Worth every penny

 

[AndyCBR]

I have read the flats on the compression assembly are in between metric sizes. Did you just use a big adjustable wrench to turn?

When going back in with the revalved cartridge assembly use blue or red loctite? I know on the nuts use red.

Thanks again for all of the advice.

Ordered the blocks today and going to have a go at it myself.

 

[NorWest]

I have read the flats on the compression assembly are in between metric sizes. Did you just use a big adjustable wrench to turn?

When going back in with the revalved cartridge assembly use blue or red loctite? I know on the nuts use red.

Thanks again for all of the advice.

Ordered the blocks today and going to have a go at it myself.

On the KYB's I have in the shop they are 18.15 mm across the flat, I usually use a Knipex plier as they create a very secure grip on flats and the have a smooth jaw.

I put a small strip of red on the threads and then cinch it down nice and snug.