BUMOT Aluminum and Soft Luggage Systems for your Super Tenere - Available at ADV Motorrad

rotaryracer

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WrongLane said:
Hi Jason, appreciate the response. However, if you or Bumot think that 20lb would overload the mount which is marketed as "BUMOT luggage is handcrafted in Bulgaria and is designed for the rider who demands the most durable and functional luggage for their adventure touring." then you should probably either not describe it as "the most durable" or specify a weight limit. Looking forward to resolving this.
Hi @WrongLane - I think you might be confusing "most durable" with "indestructible". ;) That said, while BUMOT mounts and top cases are built more robust than others, weight, speed, and riding terrain will all have an impact on longevity. The leverage and force applied to a top case are far different than side cases, and 20# up high, particularly off-road, will put a ton of stress on the mount, the case, and the subframe. It will also have a very negative effect on handling, which is why I leave my top case at home when heading off road.

I never implied he wasn't being reasonable.

But 20lb is an insane amount of weight? Seriously? Guess we have vastly different definitions of that word.

Just to be clear the bike spends most of its life on pavement with the box empty. I live in NYC after all. And otherwise gravel fire roads and such. Also, 20lb is by far the most it ever had in it.

Now, to discuss the actual failure, there are no bends in the rack. Which is what I would expect to see from an excessive amount of weight. The cracks are caused by metal fatigue caused by vibration. Which to me indicates a design issue and so I will have the new rack reinforced locally.

Oh and that 11lb weight limit refers to the stock plastic rack and has nothing to do with the subframe.
Given the heavy duty construction of the BUMOT rack (the lower bracket itself is 3mm solid steel), I'm not surprised it didn't bend. What you're seeing isn't a design issue, but the end result of weight and leverage. I would NOT recommend reinforcing that bracket, as you will be moving the point of failure elsewhere....most likely to the subframe itself. Something's gotta give, and if nothing changes in carrying weight, riding style/terrain, etc., I'd rather it be the top case bracket again versus busting up the subframe.

All that said....while BUMOT agrees that this is a use-related issue, it's the holiday season and they're feeling generous. :) They've approved a replacement of the lower U-shaped bracket at no cost to you as a one-time goodwill gesture. With a revised packing strategy, the replacement should serve you well for many more miles. I'll reach out for shipping info shortly.

Best Regards,

Jason
 

WrongLane

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Thanks Jason, I'll put my address into the ticket.

As I said above, the vast majority of the time the box was empty and on pavement and mostly used for helmet storage. Regardless, I appreciate yours and Bumots gesture.
 

Checkswrecks

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WrongLane -
I deleted your double post. Forum rule - Do NOT double post.

As for what I see, there are some things that are eye catching. The working of the various cracks are clear that this is a progression which had an initial precipitating failure. In other words - fatigue. The collection of cracks point back to the forward left corner. The $64 question is what caused the initial point to come apart. If an engineer or metallurgist can look at it with a magnifying glass, my experience is that the answer would come pretty quick.

The aft end of the plate is definitely displaced downward. Three photos were clear on this. What I did NOT see was evidence of the plate having bent in overload prior to the cracks developing.

The photos of the left forward corner look like a weld has failed (or a very sharp bend in the mfg?). The photo of the right forward may show the same along the front edge there, but it has more the look of something happening during progression of the problem, not as the original event.

While we have to take your word about what weight you carry on the rack, at least two bolts do not appear tight. This makes a HUGE difference in fatigue life, especially in a cantilever design like this.

You're not dealing with a big company but Jason's been here a long time and taken care of others who have had issues. Give him a chance and we'll stay tuned.

Bob / CW

#1 Forward left

#2 Forward right and mid right

#3 Mid right

#4 Forward left and mid left

#5 Mid left
 

Checkswrecks

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Sorry that the photos didn't show but the other thread is deleted and gone so I'm unable to bring them back.
 

WrongLane

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All the bolts are tight. The box was on the bike 100% of the time for 2 years ~10k miles. Maybe 500mi of that was on gravel. To me it also looks like metal fatigue. The rust around some of the cracks also suggests that they started forming a while ago.

Apologies for the double post. Made that one before I remembered about this thread.
 

Checkswrecks

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All the bolts are tight. The box was on the bike 100% of the time for 2 years ~10k miles. Maybe 500mi of that was on gravel. To me it also looks like metal fatigue. The rust around some of the cracks also suggests that they started forming a while ago.

Apologies for the double post. Made that one before I remembered about this thread.
No problem
 

WrongLane

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Yep, that's the plan. I have a maker space near by that's run by an ex pro welder so will have those guys weld it and add some gussets in a few key places. Also, bike was never dropped.
 
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rotaryracer

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Here are some more pics with the mount off the bike. I didn't even notice the large cracks where the bends are previously
Thanks WrongLane - those pictures definitely reinforce the fact that at some point, the case and mount was overloaded and/or overstressed which then led to the use-related failure shown. Before you mount up the replacement part we sent last week, I'd do a thorough inspection of your subframe. If you were able to damage that mount , there's a possibility that the bike's subframe may not have escaped unscathed.

I'll reiterate that repairing and/or reinforcing that mount with no changes to load, terrain, riding style, etc. will simply move the failure to the next weakest point. I can't tell you what that next point is, but I'd hate for you to find out in a catastrophic fashion!

This was an unfortunate lesson but a free one, both for WrongLane as well as those following along at home. Large top cases with heavy loads and off-road don't mix well. If you're going to be lofting your Super Tenere over some sweet, sweet jumps and need more capacity than your BUMOT panniers can provide, a roll-top dry bag is your friend!

Best Regards,

Jason
 
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WrongLane

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Hi Jason,

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree. There is no damage to the frame, I already checked. There are absolutely no bends or buckles in the mount which would indicate excessive load. There are however jagged tears at the sharp bends (weak point) caused by fatigue.

I'll have a pro look at it in the new year. See what he thinks.
 

rotaryracer

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Well, the freight gorillas were at it again with our last shipment and we ended up with a few dinged cases as a result. We tend to be hyper-conservative on what we mark as a "scratch and dent" case...if it's not 100% perfect but fully functional, we'll sell it at a discount. If there is even a small issue with functionality, the case is salvaged for parts and scrapped. Currently have a few options to save money for riders that know odds are good it's going to get dinged up far worse on your first ADV ride this year.
:D


For the top case, you'll need to add a BUMOT EVO Top Case Mount for your bike to install. For the EVO panniers, you can add a set of BUMOT pannier racks and have a full system ready to bolt on at a healthy discount.
Any questions, please let me know!
 
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Riteris

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Hi all,

I am thinking of adding electricity to my Bumot top box. I want to run 12 volts in there to charge electronics.

I might also want to add an additional brake light.

I have a fuse box and wire. I just need some ideas on how to keep the box waterproof and removable.

Any photos illustrating how and where you mounted the input would be helpful.

Thanks!
 

SkunkWorks

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I did this to one of my OEM Yamaha Panniers (right side Box).
A friend of mine also did the same thing to his Givi Trekker Outback Top-Box using the same parts.
I used an Optimate O-20 Panel-Mount.
All you need to do is drill a hole. The Panel-Mount uses a rubber gasket to seal once you assemble it.
I have an SAE Cable under my Seat. I can run it out the side.
Inside the box, I either use an SAE-to-Lighter Socket, or I have an SAE-to-USB dual-outlet.
It will charge anything you want to charge inside the box, out of the elements.

I have since sold my OEM Yamaha boxes, and went with a full Bumot setup...........I'll need to add another one of these to one of the boxes.

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Riteris

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Thanks for this. I knew about Optimate charges but was unaware of the accessories. This certainly looks like the right hardware.

I guess the next questions include where to make the hole in the topbox and will this void the warranty?;)
 
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