Broken "Stay 1"

[hoak]

Anyone ever break/crack their wind screen plastic mounting bracket? I did, this thing: #23 (called "Stay 1"):

I ordered and have received the replacement, but am wondering if anyone has actually done all the tear-down to get one of these out and a new one in, and can offer any tips tricks or warnings about stuff that has to come apart first?

It looks straight forward enough, albeit a million fasteners most not even depicted in this image -- but any advice, or detail on how this went for you would be appreciated.

 

[Dogdaze]

Cannot offer any tips, only time had to do it was a loom recall and then took it all apart. Watch for headlight re-alignment after install, mine was out, only by a fraction but it was out. Patient is the key. BTW how did your's break? Some had broken theirs when bike tool a nap, but that's it, rare for t to happen.

 

[spam16v]

Yeah, lots of screws, no big deal, take your time.

 

[copb8]

Just did this exact thing 3 weeks ago. At first I thought it was pretty daunting but in the end it's MUCH simpler than it looks. Just keep up with the fasteners and make sure you put back as many as you take out. It's an hour job at most for the inexperienced.

 

[trikepilot]

Yup. Done it twice.

#1 - http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=14711.msg229836#msg229836

#2 - http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=14711.msg230944#msg230944

Not a big deal really. Quite easy

 

[hoak]

Thanks Fellas! I'm sure you've all had that bike disassembly project to add a farkel or replace a part, that resulted in having to take apart other unanticipated stuff and/or required an oddball tool to get it done... Was just make'n sure; thanks for the reassurances!

::008::

 

[copb8]

No oddball tools required. When you're done you'll wonder why you were concerned.

 

[hoak]

No oddball tools required. When you're done you'll wonder why you were concerned.

Thanks Copb8! Hey, Bappo on the ADV forums said he had to disassemble the triple clamps to get to the big king bolt that's the main fastener for 'Stay1'...but as he'd bent the bracket welded to the headset, I'm wondering if you guys had to remove the top triple as well?

:question:

 

[trikepilot]

No need to remove triple for either of my disassemblies.

 

[fredz43]

Thanks Copb8! Hey, Bappo on the ADV forums said he had to disassemble the triple clamps to get to the big king bolt that's the main fastener for 'Stay1'...but as he'd bent the bracket welded to the headset, I'm wondering if you guys had to remove the top triple as well?

:question:

That bracket is offset and may look like it is bent, but it comes that way when new.

 

[hoak]

No need to remove triple for either of my disassemblies.

Cool, my peering around in there on my 2914 made it look like everything would clear the upper triple; I guess I'll find out soon enough...

That bracket is offset and may look like it is bent, but it comes that way when new.

Yes, but apparently (see post here) Bappo smashed into something so hard or was smashed into so hard that the mount bent.

So Bappo's warning it's a good 'heads up' -- that if this can apparently get bent the wrong direction in the process of any high transient front end mmmm, er, modifications to the front end of the bike you may not be able to get the bolt out without taking the top triples off...

Thanks Copb8, trikepilot, Dogdaze for the friendly thread bump, the Professor & Mariann, and everyone else! I'm not new to working on bikes, but have to get this done in a low light condo garage; where I'm not technically supposed to be doing this sort of thing, and wanted to go as quickly, smoothly and with as few surprises as possible.

 

[Checkswrecks]

That bracket is offset and may look like it is bent, but it comes that way when new.

::026:: to what Fred wrote.


If you look closely at the middle of the vertical piece, you can see that the mounting ears look bent slightly on a brand new part. Do NOT try to straighten the mounting point on the steering head of the frame!

 

[MrVvrroomm]

While you have this apart it would be a great time to lower the headlight. I turned both my '14 & wife's '15 adjusters 4 complete turns clockwise.

 

[KENAROO]

I'm on my 3rd stay.. of course that means I've been down twice on the S-10.. no big crashes.. one over the bars in the mud hole (it's on the net of me with mud up to my fairing) and a low side washout on a muddy road in the rain....the subframe is really not hard to replace.. more disappointed on how easy it breaks.. looks to have an updated part so maybe they made improvements.

I'm also adding some more support and adding the side wind deflectors to help next time I go down. think those will keep it from breaking so easily

another note...

CH2 racing in itally is the guy who made the Super Tenere Rally bike for David Fretigne has made up some aluminum subframes to replace.. though spendy.. I think $2500 for the new subframe fairing etc it can hold a roadbook etc for rallies and won't break as easy. .

thinking of going that route eventually.. LOL. Or if the windshield had a brake away screws that would save the frame

 

[EricV]

Normally the long bolt can be accessed quite easily by simply rotating the bars to one side to allow access with a socket and long extension. The nut at the bottom is retained, so don't worry about trying to hold it or it dropping off. It will stay in place, unless you've done other mods down there. Just spin it loose and lift it out, supporting the assembly when you do. Note, it's a heck of a lot easier to remove the headlights and other stuff first!

Find an old egg carton, muffin tin, etc and use some tape and a sharpie to mark and group all the various fasteners so it's easier to re-assemble. If anything looks like it might challenge you for re-assemble, don't forget to just take some pictures for later reference too. Got to love the digital age. ;D Good luck and I hope it goes smoothly. It's not as bad as it appears.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I'm on my 3rd stay.. of course that means I've been down twice on the S-10.. no big crashes.. one over the bars in the mud hole (it's on the net of me with mud up to my fairing) and a low side washout on a muddy road in the rain....the subframe is really not hard to replace.. more disappointed on how easy it breaks.. looks to have an updated part so maybe they made improvements.

I'm also adding some more support and adding the side wind deflectors to help next time I go down. think those will keep it from breaking so easily

another note...

CH2 racing in itally is the guy who made the Super Tenere Rally bike for David Fretigne has made up some aluminum subframes to replace.. though spendy.. I think $2500 for the new subframe fairing etc it can hold a roadbook etc for rallies and won't break as easy. .

thinking of going that route eventually.. LOL. Or if the windshield had a brake away screws that would save the frame

The stay breaks relatively easily for a reason and an aluminum stay is going to be a skewer for the typical accident which these bikes will have.

 

[KENAROO]

The stay breaks relatively easily for a reason and an aluminum stay is going to be a skewer for the typical accident which these bikes will have.

That data is for fatal accidents.. and the only injury that occurred was to my ego.
the real world data I've experienced breaking these sub-frames.. are that they break too easy.. I'd rather see the windshield break away instead of the stay. as I can keep riding all day without a windshield or could be easier to repair on the trail. when the sub frame fails.. can and has taken the lights, instruments and windshield with it. $64 windshield or a $600 headlight assembly? you pick... Of course I could stop crashing and ride easy trails but what fun is that.