Bike dies when going into gear

[JoshMundy]

Ok so ive been having alot of issues with bike dying lately and it was seeming to be related to the wiring harness, so I decided to go through and check all my connections tonight and add dielectric grease while im in there. so get done and also do a TB sync for fun, im already in there so why not. Button bike up and it fires right up. Go to put into gear and it dies. Yes sidestand is up and clutch was in. Will not start with sidestand up and clutch in. Tear bike back apart and check all connections associated with sidestand switch and clutch switch and they all look clean and tight.

If I disconnect the clutch switch at the clutch itself, the bike will go into gear regardless if sidestand is up or down. It is also the same if I disconnect at a large 8 pin connection by battery, same connector it appears the sidestand switch goes to. It still though will not start while in gear with sidestand up if either of those connectors are disconnected.

Disconnecting the side stand switch under the seat does not change the original issue of dying when going into gear.

Im out of ideas or places to look. Im exahusted and flat out frustrated at this point. Its my own fault I know but I have to get this bike ready for a trip in 16 days and I thought I had all these issues worked out a few months ago and then today they decide to pop back up.

 

[Nikolajsen]

Hmmm, "disconnecting the sidestand switch" ??
I believe you have to make a bridge in the side stand switch. Only problem is that I don't know if there is connection when sidestand is up, or down.

 

[Madhatter]

get a new switch ,a couple of bucks and your problem should be solved....

 

[2daMax]

"Disconnecting the side stand switch under the seat does not change the original issue of dying when going into gear."

It is the side stand switch. The logic (from your observation) that goes here is that it is a normally open switch with the stand in down position. The switch needs to Close in order to start (side stand up position plus a couple more conditions on the gear position or clutch switch). Since with the side stand is in the up position, it is unable to start, it indicates that the switch is always in Open condition no matter what the situation on the side stand.

 

[JoshMundy]

Hmmm, "disconnecting the sidestand switch" ??
I believe you have to make a bridge in the side stand switch. Only problem is that I don't know if there is connection when sidestand is up, or down.

Well I bridged the cables together with another piece of wire with no luck, so essentially bypassing the sidestand. Im gonna go see if I ever get any readings with a voltage meter at that point to see if the bike is even getting a signal down that far.

get a new switch ,a couple of bucks and your problem should be solved....

Not enough time to just throw new parts at it. Item worked fine until I messed with connections, the likelihood of the switch failing at the same time is minimal

"Disconnecting the side stand switch under the seat does not change the original issue of dying when going into gear."

It is the side stand switch. The logic (from your observation) that goes here is that it is a normally open switch with the stand in down position. The switch needs to Close in order to start (side stand up position plus a couple more conditions on the gear position or clutch switch). Since with the side stand is in the up position, it is unable to start, it indicates that the switch is always in Open condition no matter what the situation on the side stand.

Agreed, which is why I just tried to jump the connections but still having same issue, so im thinking the switch is fine, there is some other part that is not connecting right but from what I can tell there are only 2 other connection points and they look fine also

 

[WJBertrand]

What about the clutch switch?


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[JoshMundy]

What about the clutch switch?


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thats what ive been thinking, but if that was the case wouldnt i be able to start in gear? Anyways, yes if i disconnect / remove the lines going into the clutch the bike will go into gear, but it will not start in gear, and it will run regardless if sidestand is up or down.

Checked with voltmeter and im getting strong signal to sidestand and a weak signal to clutch switch, but im not sure how strong that signal should be power wise.

Anyone want to disconnect the switch at thier clutch and see if they have the same results as im having above

 

[greg the pole]

I've had to replace my side stand switch at about the 50k km mark.
If you intend to bypass it with a splice, it has to be soldiered properly. A butt splice will not work (ask me how)

That said, with the SS switch you should be getting an error code. I did. I forgot what it was.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I wonder if the clutch itself is releasing. Is the bike jumping at all when you try to go into gear?

 

[greg the pole]

I wonder if the clutch itself is releasing. Is the bike jumping at all when you try to go into gear?

good point. Air in the system. when is the last time the clutch was serviced?

 

[Doug C]

Several years ago while making some wiring changes I crossed a couple of wires and fried the diode relay which takes signals from clutch switch, side stand switch and neutral switch. Same symptoms bike ran but died upon going into gear. Attached a page from the manual for test procedure with a digital volt meter. At the time the relay took about a week for the dealer to get and was about $50

 

[JoshMundy]

I've had to replace my side stand switch at about the 50k km mark.
If you intend to bypass it with a splice, it has to be soldiered properly. A butt splice will not work (ask me how)

That said, with the SS switch you should be getting an error code. I did. I forgot what it was.

No error code is showing, that is the wierd issue. Research says an issue with side stand should be code 19. Good to know on the butt splice, ill have to try to figure something out with that

I wonder if the clutch itself is releasing. Is the bike jumping at all when you try to go into gear?

good point. Air in the system. when is the last time the clutch was serviced?

Not the issue. Bike works fine in gear IF the clutch switch is disconnected at the clutch lever.

Several years ago while making some wiring changes I crossed a couple of wires and fried the diode relay which takes signals from clutch switch, side stand switch and neutral switch. Same symptoms bike ran but died upon going into gear. Attached a page from the manual for test procedure with a digital volt meter. At the time the relay took about a week for the dealer to get and was about $50

I know exactly the diode you speak of. I traced all the wiring to that diode. Thank you for the test procedure, ill definitely look at this tonight ::012::

When you were investigating the issue, did you test as well by disconnecting the clutch lever switch and have it work for you? Did you get the error code 19 side stand fault, as I have not gotten that code

 

[Doug C]

I had miss wired the clutch switch I don't think I had any error codes. It was long ago so I don't remember completely. Just make sure you solve any wiring problems before replacing the diode if that turns out to be faulty. Good luck with your search.
Doug

 

[greg the pole]

No error code is showing, that is the wierd issue. Research says an issue with side stand should be code 19. Good to know on the butt splice, ill have to try to figure something out with that

Not the issue. Bike works fine in gear IF the clutch switch is disconnected at the clutch lever.

I know exactly the diode you speak of. I traced all the wiring to that diode. Thank you for the test procedure, ill definitely look at this tonight ::012::

When you were investigating the issue, did you test as well by disconnecting the clutch lever switch and have it work for you? Did you get the error code 19 side stand fault, as I have not gotten that code

I'd go back to stock settings on the clutch, if you made any changes.

If you're not throwing a code on the SS switch, it may be the switch still. on mine, the code popped up twice. I fixed it by splicing it (butt splice) and went for a ride. I had the bike shut off mid left hand turn in front of oncoming traffic, and had enough momentum to pull the clutch in and coast to safety. AFter that, I took the bastard off (butt splice installed by myself-idiot!, cleaned the wires, and soldierd the two together. No issues since. But I did install a brand new switch, and keep the spare under my seat, just in case.

if it's not the clutch, or hydraulic fluid...i'm not really sure what to tell you.

keep us posted.

Greg

 

[scott123007]

I have read this thread from beginning to end and now my head is spinning. LOL

Your situation, as you explain it, is your sidestand switch. I'm just not sure if disconnecting it is a proper way to diagnose the problem.

Here's why... If you disconnect your clutch switch, your bike will ONLY start in neutral, whether your clutch lever is pulled in or not. That is because unlike some other manufacturers, in neutral, the Tenere will start without pulling the clutch lever in. Once the bike has started in neutral, "IF" the sidestand is up, the bike will go into gear and not stall. If the wires to the clutch switch have been bridged, the bike will start, in gear or not, whether the lever is pulled in or not, as long as the sidestand is UP. The only thing that should kill the engine when the bike is put into gear is the sidestand being down, not the clutch switch.

So, make sure your sidestand is up, put the bike in neutral, start it, put it in gear, and if it stalls, it is either your sidestand switch, or something got screwed up while you were messing with the other stuff (I have no idea what though)

 

[JoshMundy]

I had miss wired the clutch switch I don't think I had any error codes. It was long ago so I don't remember completely. Just make sure you solve any wiring problems before replacing the diode if that turns out to be faulty. Good luck with your search.
Doug

Ok, its the wiring issue I have no idea on. I didnt do any wiring, all I did was disconnect connectors, add dielectric grease and reattach. Ill test tonight and see if I can locate the issue

I'd go back to stock settings on the clutch, if you made any changes.

If you're not throwing a code on the SS switch, it may be the switch still. on mine, the code popped up twice. I fixed it by splicing it (butt splice) and went for a ride. I had the bike shut off mid left hand turn in front of oncoming traffic, and had enough momentum to pull the clutch in and coast to safety. AFter that, I took the bastard off (butt splice installed by myself-idiot!, cleaned the wires, and soldierd the two together. No issues since. But I did install a brand new switch, and keep the spare under my seat, just in case.

if it's not the clutch, or hydraulic fluid...i'm not really sure what to tell you.

keep us posted.

Greg

No changes were made to clutch, or any wiring. No code for SS switch. I did try to jump the connection with 2 wires at the first connector under seat, nothing fancy, and still did not function properly.

I have read this thread from beginning to end and now my head is spinning. LOL

Your situation, as you explain it, is your sidestand switch. I'm just not sure if disconnecting it is a proper way to diagnose the problem.

Here's why... If you disconnect your clutch switch, your bike will ONLY start in neutral, whether your clutch lever is pulled in or not. That is because unlike some other manufacturers, in neutral, the Tenere will start without pulling the clutch lever in. Once the bike has started in neutral, "IF" the sidestand is up, the bike will go into gear and not stall. If the wires to the clutch switch have been bridged, the bike will start, in gear or not, whether the lever is pulled in or not, as long as the sidestand is UP. The only thing that should kill the engine when the bike is put into gear is the sidestand being down, not the clutch switch.

So, make sure your sidestand is up, put the bike in neutral, start it, put it in gear, and if it stalls, it is either your sidestand switch, or something got screwed up while you were messing with the other stuff (I have no idea what though)

Thank you for taking the time to read it all. Im a bit flustered so maybe im not making sense. Ill try to explain a little clearer and more straight to point below.

- All connections plugged in - Bike starts in neutral fine. Bike dies going into gear. Sidestand is up

- Unplug side stand switch at connection under seat, all other connections plugged in - Bike starts in neutral fine. Bike dies going into gear. Sidestand is up

- Unplug side stand switch at connection under seat and jump the connections with a piece of wire (possible I didnt have the wire making good contact), all other connections plugged in - Bike starts in neutral fine. Bike dies going into gear.

- Unplug clutch switch at connection off clutch lever, all other connections plugged in - Bike starts in neutral fine. Bike runs in gear. Sidestand can be up or down and still runs

- Unplug connection where the sidestand switch wire and the clutch switch wires "appear" to meet up - Bike starts in neutral fine. Bike runs in gear. Sidestand can be up or down and still runs


Also, I have followed the wires from the switches (SideStand Switch and Clutch Switch) to the diode and the voltage reading I am getting is the same from the switch to the diode. The voltage amounts are different for each switch line, but they are a constant between each connection point so it tells me there is no loss at a connection right?

 

[greg the pole]

I'm starting to go cross eyed. I'd ride down there, and lend you my spare switch, but I can't get away from work this week

I'm not sure of the various states of switches. NO (normally open), or NC( Normally closed)
here's the result from a google search, and the following page:
https://www.usermanuals.tech/d/2012-na-yamaha-super-tenere-manual/index/46

The clutch lever (Aka CS) is pulled to the handlebar (the clutch switch is closed) and the sidestand (AKA ss) is up (the
sidestand switch is closed).
The important pages are 451-458 and 8-127 for switch checks

so from the above:
SS up (NC)
SS down/SS unplugged NO
CS in NC
CS out/unplugged NO

First off, did you test the SS and CS by themselves? do they do their intended function as per above?

I've updated the reply as I've gone a bit cross eyed. I'll have a look at it at home..

 

[Juan]

This is a very interesting topic. I have never followed the wires leading from the clutch lever or the side stand switch, so I can't really provide sound advice on this matter. However, judging from the confusing situation described in this thread, I would dare to offer this possibility: Are there similar connectors leading from the clutch lever switch and side stand switch? In the affirmative, could you have switched connectors by mistake?

 

[WJBertrand]

Crazy thought, but what did you use for dielectric grease? Was the stuff labeled as dielectric grease? Most other types of greases have additives in them that could potentially be conductive. That'd screw things up royally.

 

[JoshMundy]

I'm starting to go cross eyed. I'd ride down there, and lend you my spare switch, but I can't get away from work this week

I'm not sure of the various states of switches. NO (normally open), or NC( Normally closed)
here's the result from a google search, and the following page:
https://www.usermanuals.tech/d/2012-na-yamaha-super-tenere-manual/index/46

The clutch lever (Aka CS) is pulled to the handlebar (the clutch switch is closed) and the sidestand (AKA ss) is up (the
sidestand switch is closed).
The important pages are 451-458 and 8-127 for switch checks

so from the above:
SS up (NC)
SS down/SS unplugged NO
CS in NC
CS out/unplugged NO

First off, did you test the SS and CS by themselves? do they do their intended function as per above?

I've updated the reply as I've gone a bit cross eyed. I'll have a look at it at home..

I just went home and tested each one for continuity and they are functioning properly. However, I did solve it, see below :'(

Crazy thought, but what did you use for dielectric grease? Was the stuff labeled as dielectric grease? Most other types of greases have additives in them that could potentially be conductive. That'd screw things up royally.

It is actual dielectric grease, and no additives.

This is a very interesting topic. I have never followed the wires leading from the clutch lever or the side stand switch, so I can't really provide sound advice on this matter. However, judging from the confusing situation described in this thread, I would dare to offer this possibility: Are there similar connectors leading from the clutch lever switch and side stand switch? In the affirmative, could you have switched connectors by mistake?

And here is the damn answer I was an idiot in my sleepy stupor and connected 2 connections together that should not have been. I went home and tested the diode as outlined above and the test came back as it was bad, no connection had continuity, which struck me and my friend as odd. plugged it back in and tried anyways and still no go. I went through and showed my friend what all connections I found to be for the CS and SS and we tested those for continuity and they came back as good. So we chalked it up to a bad diode as thats how it tested. When im plugging it all back together, he asked if they all are keyed differently so I couldnt mix them up and I said yes they all seemed to be. Thats when he noticed the Rear Wheel Sensor and the SS were similar colors, one grey one white, and are not keyed differently and are next to eachother :'(. So yeah, I was an idiot and had them mixed up. Plugged white to white and grey to grey, bike fired up and went into gear as it should have. My guess is it being late and not the best lighting I never noticed it ::005::

As to why the diode tested as bad, I have no idea besides the fact I was using a cheap meter, but even my friend who is WAAAY better at electronics than me was testing and it never had coninuity on the diode. Either way, im happy the bike seems to be fixed. Ill button it up tonight and fully test it to make sure. Sorry for the headaches and thank you all for the help, hopefully if anyone else makes this mistake this will help them out.