Best lube for Yamaha sidecases?

[Jurko]

What's the best grease/oil/whatever for the plastic parts of the Yamaha sidecase locks?

Your advice greatly appreciated.

 

[Koinz]

I have used a couple of drops of Light Machine oil (sewing machine oil) or that Lock De-icer spray that has the graphite mixed in it.

 

[Karson]

Graphite pow pow

 

[Tenerefeller]

Graphite pow pow

Pow pow!

 

[Travex]

Excellent thread Jurko!

As the internals are plastic I'd avoid using any "wet" lube... Even graphite. I'm on my 2nd S10 and 2nd set of OEM panniers as well and in my experience have found graphite dry lube to be the best and longest performer.

Also, if you're not aware of this: Some preventative maintenance IS required on the OEM boxes. Upon opening one, you'll find a rubber cap on the rear of each lock mechanism. Remove that cap and you'll find two screws. Remove those one at a time and replace using BLUE LOCTITE thread locker. If those screws back out (and they will w/o Loctite), you'll find yourself in a real pickle insofar as not being able to get into the box. A serious pain. When I bought my 2014, each lock had a loose screw and one was totally out. Once you perform this small task you don't have to sweat it again.

 

[StevoPivo]

Excellent thread Jurko!

As the internals are plastic I'd avoid using any "wet" lube... Even graphite. I'm on my 2nd S10 and 2nd set of OEM panniers as well and in my experience have found graphite dry lube to be the best and longest performer.

Also, if you're not aware of this: Some preventative maintenance IS required on the OEM boxes. Upon opening one, you'll find a rubber cap on the rear of each lock mechanism. Remove that cap and you'll find two screws. Remove those one at a time and replace using BLUE LOCTITE thread locker. If those screws back out (and they will w/o Loctite), you'll find yourself in a real pickle insofar as not being able to get into the box. A serious pain. When I bought my 2014, each lock had a loose screw and one was totally out. Once you perform this small task you don't have to sweat it again.

Excellent point about locking yourself out and great tip. Thanks. I watched the dealer guy put all of this together before I rode off. I know for sure he didn't dab those little screws with Loctite. I'm going to do that this evening.

 

[ReSpawnBillyT]

Thanks for the tips on the OEM pannier maintenance Travex!

I am on my second S10 - but first time owner for the OEM panniers. The core and sleeve was gone on one pannier after a long ride last weekend. I could not get into that side.
Once back in the garage, I picked the lid open then pulled the rubber cover. I found two screws floating in there. I had to order new core(s) and will take your advice on setup this time around.

 

[Travex]

Sure thing, glad to help. I put that out there whenever this pops up as my having taken that tip from this forum surely saved my bacon. FWIW, the locks become more easily actuated over time.

 

[markjenn]

Another thing to keep in mind is that the two screws holding the lock cylinder in are tiny security torx. (Why Yamaha uses a security torx screw in a place that requires a key to access is a perplexing question.) You can sorta hack at them with a phillips, but you really need the proper bit to torque them.

Although I didn't do the setup for my bags, I'm reasonably certain they were done properly with loctite. And I recently had one set back out.... I was able to catch it just before the lock fell out, but it was a close call. Certainly something to check now and then.

I have lubed my locks a few times with dry graphite, but it never seems to help much and it makes a mess.

- Mark

 

[scott123007]

. (Why Yamaha uses a security torx screw in a place that requires a key to access is a perplexing question.)
- Mark

That is an interesting point. The logic must be that they don't want the locksets stolen even AFTER the lid is open. LOL I say that because they do the same thing to your ignition switch. Even though you don't have to "access" it first, whether it is removed or not would have nothing to do with the lock getting picked, or the wires being cut, if someone was to try to steal the bike. Regardless, security torx bits are as readily available as the regular ones so I always buy the security ones.

 

[StevoPivo]

As noted in a previous post, these little screws require a t10 anti-tamper torx bit. I had a ridiculous time and failed trying to use something else.

 

[tomatocity]

As noted in a previous post, these little screws require a t10 anti-tamper torx bit. I had a ridiculous time and failed trying to use something else.

Harbor Freight has a set cheap