Battery connections overload

[Grumpy]

After owning my gen 1 for a couple of years now, I have a few things running from the battery terminals:- sat nav, power outlet and battery charger leads, plus the earth for the alarm. It's getting a bit cosy under that side pannel. Anyone found a better way to access the battery and connect stuff? (Please note, I have a phobia of things going pop, followed by the smell of burning plasic)

 

[Brick]

Yes I use an FZ1 Fuze Block http://www.advdesigns.com/fuzeblock.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAoaXFBRCNhautiPvnqzoSJABzHd6h-Rklj5JqNCfNd95gdwc1mRgRkdgufP8oBlN5dqus5BoCitPw_wcB
This is simply the best. At $89 it's not the cheapest way to go. With the built in relay it's so easy to make circuit hit all the time and easily move the circuits fuse and it becomes a switched circuit. = no power until you turn the key on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Grumpy]

Cheers Dave Just ordered one, £79 over here.

 

[outdoorsntn]

Any advantages/disadvantages between the Adventure Designs and the Eastern Beaver PC8? I'm also in the market for one.

 

[yoyo]

I nicked an idea from one of the guys on the UK Strom forum and made an aux fuse box, cost about £10 all in, a relay/fuse holder with 3 outputs, the only issue is the lack of space on the S10, on a DL1000 you can fit a kitchen sink under the seat but is at least I've only got one connection to the battery.

 

[RicoChet]

I second the FZ1 Solution. I had one on my Rocket III and it was a huge advantage to be able to plugin anything you want into the device and choose switched or unswitched very easily from the Fuzeblock.

 

[Checkswrecks]

From this similar thread:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?action=post;quote=39113;topic=2324.0

You can make a fused power distribution point cheaply under the right panels, like this: (Look for the yellow insulated eyelets in the upper right of the photo.) The terminal strip can be bought at pretty much any Radio Shack or car parts store. I have it set up the following way: The battery ground terminal is connected to the lowest connections on the strip with 10 ga wire. (Yes, it could be thinner but I had 10 ga and will never have to worry about wire capability.) A 20A fuse comes off the hot terminal of the battery and connects with 10 gauge wire to the 2nd set of terminals. The inline fuse plug is rated for 30A and uses the same style of fuse the bike runs. (Don't remember the lettering code.) A 30A relay attached to the lower mounting screw provides switched power to the top two sets of terminals. The switching logic is fromt he unused grip heater plug, but there are a number of other potential signal sources. The top two sets of terminals are what my accessories can be powered by, so I'm good for a half dozen items to hang off. Each of which will get their own inline fuse of appropriate rating. btw, the set of sleeved and spiral wrapped wires going up to the right go to an SAE plug for the compressor and trickle charger.

 

[RCinNC]

I went with the Eastern Beaver PC8 power distribution block. It would be tough to find an easier plug and play installation. I've had this box on two different bikes, and if I ever sell the S10, the box will come off and go onto the next bike. There's no cutting or splicing, no tapping into switched lines; the relay harness is designed to plug into an existing plug on the bike.

I put the box under the seat, to make it easier to change a fuse if it was necessary. The relay is under the right side panel.

 

[WJBertrand]

I used a Neutrino Black Box power distribution box. It replaces all the fuses with resettable solid state adjustable breakers. You can also program circuits on and off based on time of day, temperature etc. It's all done through a smartphone app so you can bury the thing as you don't need direct access to it. Not the cheapest solution but I really enjoy the automatic variable heating for my heated jacket. No need to mess with on and off of the switch or fiddling with a controller.

 

[Kevhunts]

Another option if interested...

http://www.rowe-electronics.com/modules

 

[escapefjrtist]

For a couple circuits, another [frugal] option is one or two 30A relays tucked under the RH panel. I've got heated grips, heated jacket pigtail and aux lights off of two relays. Powered through the three-wire OE connector it's simple and clean.

YMMV

--G

 

[Grumpy]

Over here the PDM60 is around $173 (£139) as against $98 (£79) for the Fuze Block. The fun bit is going to find somewhere to put the FB, as I have quite a bit of stuff under the seat.

 

[AVGeek]

An inmate over at ADVRider came up with the motobrain:

www.motobrain.net

 

[Pterodactyl]

I've never had a bike that had so many electrical add-ons as my 12 ST does. I bought it used so many were already installed. To accommodate all of this stuff I use a FuzeBloc and a remote positive terminal with each circuit individually fused. I have three circuits that are attached to the battery: Original +/-, FuzeBloc and remote terminal.

The list:
1. Heated seat
2. Heated grips
3. Gear position indicator
4. Speedhealer (recently removed)
5. Radar protector
6. GPS
7. Auxiliary lights
8. Flashing LED brake light
9. Battery tender
10. Heated gear controller

 

[Grumpy]

OK, I have decided to put the FB under the seat, but does anyone have a suggestion for the switched line? The electrical wiring on this bike is a long way from my 1999 XJR, although I'm guessing that the wire color I am looking for is brown. :

 

[Pterodactyl]

By "switched line" do you mean the wire that triggers the relay to turn on when the bike is powered? It can be very low amperage. I also have my FuzeBlock under the seat and use the rear tail light as the trigger.

 

[Grumpy]

By "switched line" do you mean the wire that triggers the relay to turn on when the bike is powered? It can be very low amperage. I also have my FuzeBlock under the seat and use the rear tail light as the trigger.

Thanks, yes it is.

 

[RicoChet]

I dont have much experience with this bike but I did use the accessory connector under the right panel as a switched power source. Hope that helps!

 

[shmitty]

My switched power source is the positive lead to the auxiliary outlet by the gauges. It's close to the battery and accessible from the right side panel. It's easier to diagnose any problems from there if the wires, battery, and fuses are all close to each other so I also tucked my fuse panel and grounding lug there so I could save what little space there is under the seat for a small tool roll.

Just don't let the smoke out of the wiring and you're golden.

 

[Grumpy]

I dont have much experience with this bike but I did use the accessory connector under the right panel as a switched power source. Hope that helps!

This is the one I used. The wireing kit came with a cover loom, so it was tidier to run all three wires from under the seat to the battery and accessory connector(brown wire)