Arrow Headers - Install

[midlife]

Hi Folks,

I am hoping to install my second hand Arrow Headers this week and was hoping people could help with some advice as although it looks fairly obvious I have no instructions.
1)Do I need any exhaust paste from end can to link pipe (or anywhere else)?
2) There are 2 bushes that mate up to the manifold, which way round to they go?
3) Are there any Gaskets supplied or needed i.e. re-use existing
4) Any advice or tips
many thanks in advance
Rob

 

[La Knee]

Yes exhaust paste is needed between can and header and probally wont hurt between joints in headers be sure to clean exposed pipe .
I reused the stock gasgets without any trouble.
Im pretty sure the pipe holder where the springs mount to will only go one way(i will post a pick later today .
It was pretty easy to install i removed the endcan then installed after header was mounted . GOOD LUCK PS i bought used headers with no instructions also so take a good look at the stock ones to assemble headers .


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[Rasher]

+1 to above ::008::

Only thing I remember is that undoing the O2 sensors was a bit fiddly, rest was fairly easy.

If you have time and the prices are OK may be worth getting new gaskets, but I also re-used old ones - the only one I could foresee being an issue is the one to the end can, looks like it could fall apart fairly easily especially on an older / higher mileage bike.

 

[midlife]

Thanks folks,
Rasher, bit confused, the end can has a smaller diameter than the oem headers and so had to remove the weird,gauze gasket from the headers to fit the end can. I have not offered it up yet but my guess is that the Arrow header will have the same diameter as the end can, and therefore simply have a clamp fit, or a very thin narrow collar type gasket. Could you let me know where I am going wrong. Also can you recommend what exhaust paste would be best bearing in mind that I have disabled the O2 sensors
Thanks
Rob

 

[Rasher]

Currently I have headers with stock end can.

I do have a second hand Arrow end can ready to fit now, but not done it yet, I was assuming it was the same as OE diameter, I do however have the instructions for the end can somewhere, will dig around for them at weekend.

Don't think I used any paste, just used the bungs supplied with headers in the O2 sensor hole.

 

[midlife]

Hi Folks,
Well I fitted the headers but have not had a chance to ride yet. One thing though is that the Arrow headers do not have any captive nuts to accept the oe heat shield or any after market for that matter:

With OE exhaust:


With Arrow headers:


Any Ideas? or just ride and avoid sticking my boot anywhere near it?
Cheers
Rob

 

[La Knee]

If you cover them in mud it insulates them


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[Rasher]

::021::

See how it goes, I cannot see it being a problem as nobody else has complained.

I have an SW-Motech bash plate on mine which would stop me touching them with my boot, not a cheap solution but does also keep crap of the front / underside of the engine (which is why I bought it)

How is it running now :question:

 

[Kwatters]

I am running as is and not worrying about it.

 

[midlife]

::021::
How is it running now :question:

I gave it a 100 miles plus today and in S mode it was like a sports bike quick. T mode was fine. I had no evidence of surging that you describe however in S mode in town i found it difficult to assess what gear to be in to stay at the required 30. Many times it would "kangaroo" until I either accelerated or changed down a gear. This could simply be me as I seldom ride in urban areas and am a bit rusty after winter break
The popping on de-celleration was very,very evident and somewhat embarrassing in town. Not sure if it is purely a side effect of the full system or air leaks due to poor joint seals?
Cheers
Rob

 

[Rasher]

i found it difficult to assess what gear to be in to stay at the required 30. Many times it would "kangaroo" until I either accelerated or changed down a gear.

That is what the rest of us describe as "surging"

Just off idle, at a steady speed it "kangaroos" at @20 in second / @30 in third, or roughly 1800 - 2200 rpm, most annoying around town / filtering through traffic.

That is what the remap on mine fixed ::008::


Glad you like the extra top end, if it is about the same as mine you should have similar power at 6,000 rpm as the stock bike has at peak (7500) so it is a fair bit quicker even when you are not caning it, and like you say almost feels like a sportsbike up top.

 

[midlife]

I was experiencing the jerky ness qalready, before the headers were fitted. I posted about this after installing only the end can a couple of months ago.
Really need to ride a bit more to really assess. Any suggestions on the popping?

 

[Kwatters]

I was experiencing the jerky ness qalready, before the headers were fitted. I posted about this after installing only the end can a couple of months ago.
Really need to ride a bit more to really assess. Any suggestions on the popping?

I find myself pulling in the clutch and coasting if I don't want the popping. I hear the flash will take away some of that as well.

 

[Xt1200zsupertenere]

I was experiencing the jerky ness qalready, before the headers were fitted. I posted about this after installing only the end can a couple of months ago.
Really need to ride a bit more to really assess. Any suggestions on the popping?

Powercomander or ECU unleash ?

 

[Xt1200zsupertenere]

I gave it a 100 miles plus today and in S mode it was like a sports bike quick. T mode was fine. I had no evidence of surging that you describe however in S mode in town i found it difficult to assess what gear to be in to stay at the required 30. Many times it would "kangaroo" until I either accelerated or changed down a gear. This could simply be me as I seldom ride in urban areas and am a bit rusty after winter break
The popping on de-celleration was very,very evident and somewhat embarrassing in town. Not sure if it is purely a side effect of the full system or air leaks due to poor joint seals?
Cheers
Rob

Powercomander or ECU unleash flash ?? Or stock ECU ?