Anyone put lowering links on an ES?

[Dirt_Dad]

Dirt_Mom is going to switch to an ES. I found her lowered seat on my ES put her at exactly the same height of bike as her 2012 with 1" lowering links. Her '12 has always been a bit high for her, so an ES with lowering links might just be perfect.

I'm wondering if anyone has lowered an ES and if there were any issues with the suspension wire harness after raising the forks in the clamp. Is there plenty of cable? How did it work out?

 

[OldRider]

Everything works fine. It does change the steering in a way I didn't like, but that's probably just a learning curve.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I found that when I lowered my wife's '12 bike I had to raise the forks in the clamp exact.y a specific amount (I think it was 13mm). One mm on either side and I could tell and the steering was not right. Once set correctly you could not tell the difference in steering going from my 2012 (unlowered) bike and her bike.

It's the changing of that front suspension mounting in the clamps that I'm most curious about.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I was going to say that you ought to just get her a taller set of boots, but she'd probably kick you in the ass with them. LOL

 

[ScoutDogMan]

I lowered my 2016 after changing the seat to the lowest position. I used link from the UK that lowered the seat height about an inch, directions said to lower the front about 1/2 inch also to keep
bike handling as designed, which I did. However on the ES, make sure that when you loosen both sets of bolts on the triple trees that you don't let the front tire drop, the shock control wires on top of the
shocks will be torn off!! There were no issues with cables, etc doing this.

Lowering links, new Sargant seat, along with putting the plastic piece under the seat to the lowest position gave me about 2 inches less height, which I needed.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I was going to say that you ought to just get her a taller set of boots, but she'd probably kick you in the ass with them. LOL

She already has the OEM short seat and taller boots. I'm not about to give her the boots from my vintage Gene Simmons, Kiss Destroyer outfit. I just wear them too often to give them to her.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

There were no issues with cables, etc doing this.

Perfect, that's exactly what I needed to know. Thank you.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I lowered my 2016 after changing the seat to the lowest position. I used link from the UK that lowered the seat height about an inch, directions said to lower the

Here's a question for you...how did you do it? I went to lower the new bike this afternoon and the exhaust is in the way of removing the bolt for the front hole of dog bone. How did you get that bolt out? This is definitely different from the pre-14 bikes. Not sure how to do it.

 

[snakebitten]

Ooooolala............DirtMom is getting headers!!!

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Ooooolala............DirtMom is getting headers!!!

I'm such a Neanderthal when it comes to suspension and exhaust I have no idea what you are saying. I see you typed letters on the keyboard, but I don't know what they say.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I haven't pulled it to lube so can't answer you yet. But I'll warn you that if you kept the skid plate from her Gen1 bike, it is probably going to not fit due to the Gen2 exhaust being fatter at the bottom.

 

[snakebitten]

So, if you put headers on the gen2 (2017), then does the gen1 bash\skid plate fit? ::26::

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I haven't pulled it to lube so can't answer you yet. But I'll warn you that if you kept the skid plate from her Gen1 bike, it is probably going to not fit due to the Gen2 exhaust being fatter at the bottom.

You are correct. That one was an easy mod. Put the back of the skid plate in a vise and pushed. Bent it most of the way needed. Used a little bit of bending with channel locks to fine tune the fit.

The biggest issue I have with that exhaust is with getting out the dog bones. Bolt will not come out. My current line of thinking is to cut off the bolt head then reinstall a new one going the other direction. There's plenty of room if the bolt goes the other way.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Especially since nothing's rusted yet, wouldn't it be easy to loosen the exhaust?

 

[rstrom]

The trick to get that bolt out is to slide the spacer on the rear link bolt in towards the right . When this is done it gives enough space for the bolt near the exhaust to clear.

 

[rstrom]

I think I need to clarify my post some. Remove the rear link bolt,I moved the front link bolt out to the exhaust contact then reach little finger in and moved bushing over enough to get ahold of on the right. I pulled mine out 3/4 of the way out. With that thick bushing out of the way I had no problem getting that bolt out however be gentle doing so and in reinserting as the bearing is exposed and the small needle bearings are held in place in a soft plastic teflon type cage. good luck

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Especially since nothing's rusted yet, wouldn't it be easy to loosen the exhaust?

Mostly yes, but I looked at getting access to that sensor nut on the inside pipe and it looked iffy enough that cutting a bolt seemed easier.

I think I need to clarify my post some. Remove the rear link bolt,I moved the front link bolt out to the exhaust contact then reach little finger in and moved bushing over enough to get ahold of on the right. I pulled mine out 3/4 of the way out. With that thick bushing out of the way I had no problem getting that bolt out however be gentle doing so and in reinserting as the bearing is exposed and the small needle bearings are held in place in a soft plastic teflon type cage. good luck

Interesting, and thanks for the clarification. I'll give that a shot. If it works for me I'm still thinking I'll revers the bolt. This is a pain in the neck.

Welcome to the board. Very helpful first couple of post.


Anyone know why the dealers of lowering links list two different part numbers for the ES vs non-ES model? I have Jaxon's links for the '12. I'm thinking I should at least try them before ordering new "ES" links.

 

[rstrom]

The links on the es are different than the non es model as in different lengths. I got the lust racing links for es, they come in two versions 15 mm and 30 mm lowering. The 30mm links I got are 5 inches from center to center. Hope that helps

 

[Brick]

I have a deal for you! I purchased the combo adjustable lowering links and adjustable side stand from a member on this forum. They came from http://soupysperformance.com/yamaha-star/super-tenere-xtz1200/soupys-yamaha-super-tenere-xtz1200-lowering-links.html
I only wanted the adjustable side stand. He had the links on a Tenere. As you can see on the website they are fully adjustable and sold for $97. I will sell and ship these to you main land USA only for $75. PM if interested.

For reference here is the adjustable side stand that I am using.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dirt_Dad]

The 30mm links I got are 5 inches from center to center. Hope that helps

That helped a lot. Made me realize my 2012 lowering links would actually be raising links. Once again, appreciate the helpful info.

I have a deal for you!

Thanks, Brick. I'm more of a solid link kinda guy. I do appreciate the offer.