Altrider Skid Plate Mounts

Alan

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The Altrider Skid plate has 8 mounting points all with nuts and washers. I knew I would be cussing the first time I had to take it off, which has to be done to change the oil filter. My hands are so big, I could barely hold the nuts in place to get them started. I removed the skid plate and brackets and had nuts welded to the brackets and had them re-powdercoated.

I'm still a little concerned about the front left bracket mounting to the cast lug on the engine, but figure the back bracket is stiff enough to absorb a heavy hit. The front left mount has a hole that is several mm's smaller than the hole in the cast lug so I'm going to use a rubber spacer there. Not sure if this was by design or accident.


Larger picture: http://www.bopisolutions.com/Tenere/IMG_0252.JPG
 

fender5803

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Alan said:
The Altrider Skid plate has 8 mounting points all with nuts and washers. I knew I would be cussing the first time I had to take it off, which has to be done to change the oil filter. My hands are so big, I could barely hold the nuts in place to get them started. I removed the skid plate and brackets and had nuts welded to the brackets and had them re-powdercoated.

I'm still a little concerned about the front left bracket mounting to the cast lug on the engine, but figure the back bracket is stiff enough to absorb a heavy hit. The front left mount has a hole that is several mm's smaller than the hole in the cast lug so I'm going to use a rubber spacer there. Not sure if this was by design or accident.


Larger picture: http://www.bopisolutions.com/Tenere/IMG_0252.JPG
Older thread with good info ... and I have big hands as well as this plate. I have similar concerns about down the road oil changes.
Can I ask aprox. what it costs to do this mod please-? I'd need to find a trusted welder of small parts and powder coat person, perhaps one and the same ...
Thanks,
-DT
 

stevepsd

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You might want to look at Rivnuts as a option. No welding required.
 

fender5803

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::022::
stevepsd said:
You might want to look at Rivnuts as a option. No welding required.
Thanks stevepsd. I had not thought of this and seems like a really good one at first glance. I saw a few ideas around having to purchase a "Rivnut Installation Tool" I am looking at it now. I think I'll go ahead and put on the plate and see what I'm up against when the oil filter change becomes necessary etc. I would hope the bash plate comes off without a great deal of trouble. I don't mind a bit of work every 3000 miles or so. I have had it since I bought the bike in Oct and seem to keep finding reasons to not get down on my older knees and just do the installation. Ahh procrastination, it runs rampant in our family :)
-DT
 

jajpko

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fender5803 said:
::022::Thanks stevepsd. I had not thought of this and seems like a really good one at first glance. I saw a few ideas around having to purchase a "Rivnut Installation Tool" I am looking at it now. I think I'll go ahead and put on the plate and see what I'm up against when the oil filter change becomes necessary etc. I would hope the bash plate comes off without a great deal of trouble. I don't mind a bit of work every 3000 miles or so. I have had it since I bought the bike in Oct and seem to keep finding reasons to not get down on my older knees and just do the installation. Ahh procrastination, it runs rampant in our family :)
-DT
I found it was not that hard to remove and re-install. The two small bolts in the front were the hardest. I used a magnetic tool that looks like a car antennae to hold the nuts. It also works to retrieve a nut or washer that has fallen between the engine and plate.
 

erenet

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I have mine for a while too. I'm just waiting for the next oil change to have it installed; I'll triy to weld one piece of metal from one nut to the other then powder coat them, that way I don't have to hold the nuts with a wrench.
 

stevepsd

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It takes me about a extra 20 minutes or so to remove the plate. Not that big of a deal really.

The biggest 'pain' and I mean burning-pain, is removing the right side rear bolts to do a oil change with a hot motor. The exhaust is right there by those nuts, same with the right front mount being close to the headers............... Would not be a problem if I plan ahead, but sometimes........................well you know.

As far as working on your hand and knees............after all these years I finally broke down and bought a bike lift a few months ago. Much, much nicer to work on the lower bits of the bike, although if doing work top-side I don't use it.

I was getting ready to go all-out and spend almost $1600 on a Handy Lift (and still might), but came across a killer deal ($229) on a 1,000lb lift from Harbor Freight (I know, I know - heard it all) and figured that if it turned out to not be great I could turn it into a wheeled lift table, or use the material to make something else. But so far the cheap-o lift is working out just fine. They seem to run these on special all the time - check out their ads in most of the bike or car mags.

-steve
 

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jajpko

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stevepsd said:
It takes me about a extra 20 minutes or so to remove the plate. Not that big of a deal really.

The biggest 'pain' and I mean burning-pain, is removing the right side rear bolts to do a oil change with a hot motor. The exhaust is right there by those nuts, same with the right front mount being close to the headers............... Would not be a problem if I plan ahead, but sometimes........................well you know.

As far as working on your hand and knees............after all these years I finally broke down and bought a bike lift a few months ago. Much, much nicer to work on the lower bits of the bike, although if doing work top-side I don't use it.

I was getting ready to go all-out and spend almost $1600 on a Handy Lift (and still might), but came across a killer deal ($229) on a 1,000lb lift from Harbor Freight (I know, I know - heard it all) and figured that if it turned out to not be great I could turn it into a wheeled lift table, or use the material to make something else. But so far the cheap-o lift is working out just fine. They seem to run these on special all the time - check out their ads in most of the bike or car mags.

-steve
A table lift makes all the difference in the world. I have a Direct Lift with the side extensions and rear tire drop out plate.
I can't get down on the floor anymore and a lift allows me to work on my bike.
 

roy

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stevepsd said:
I was getting ready to go all-out and spend almost $1600 on a Handy Lift (and still might),
Go with the Handy and don't look back. I researched all the others to death a year ago. I have had Handy almost a year and during this time of installing a lot of S10 goodies it has made my life so easy. No more sore knees or lower back. I got mine from Mile-X equipment for about $1300 but like I said that was last March. Like everything else it probably has gone up since then.

Link for the place I bought my lift at http://www.mile-x.com/motorcycle-lifts.aspx Looks like its still $1300 and a few dollars and a free shipping.

 

Combo

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roy said:
Go with the Handy and don't look back. I researched all the others to death a year ago. I have had Handy almost a year and during this time of installing a lot of S10 goodies it has made my life so easy. No more sore knees or lower back. I got mine from X-mile equipment for about $1300 but like I said that was last March. Like everything else it probably has gone up since then.

Wow! That pic makes my shop look like a disaster. Nice setup for sure. ::008::

I went with the Yamaha bash plate...........very easy to remove and drain the oil. All you have to do is hit a large rock. ::025::
 

stevepsd

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Combo said:
I went with the Yamaha bash plate...........very easy to remove and drain the oil. All you have to do is hit a large rock. ::025::
To Funny!
 

fender5803

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japako said:
A table lift makes all the difference in the world. I have a Direct Lift with the side extensions and rear tire drop out plate.
I can't get down on the floor anymore and a lift allows me to work on my bike.
Yup I am heading that way, the knees are not what they used to be ... It took me about one hour 20 min to do the install of AltRider plate today with lots of groveling around on knees. I will have to start saving up for a lift as well as a place to put it, maybe my wife will let me use part of her garage/studio. I am guessing the lifts are heavy enough they don't need to be secured to the floor unless wanted. It must be really nice to leave the crawling around.

I was thinking maybe I could just undo part of the plate to drop it enough to do the filter but I don't think so now, still it's not something that takes to long or is done that often. For sure I am happier to have the protection.

-DT ::022::
 

Tremor38

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Combo said:
Wow! That pic makes my shop look like a disaster. Nice setup for sure. ::008::

I went with the Yamaha bash plate...........very easy to remove and drain the oil. All you have to do is hit a large rock. ::025::
Yeah, but you gotta carry all that oil and a drip pan with you. Aw never mind....this is a Yamaha...U can prolly get'er home without oil 8) :D
 

Combo

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Tremor38 said:
Yeah, but you gotta carry all that oil and a drip pan with you. Aw never mind....this is a Yamaha...U can prolly get'er home without oil 8) :D
Your right! Who needs a case of and oil. It's a Yamaha ::013::
 

Alan

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Stevepsd:

I first used Rivnuts, but the head of the nut spaces out the skid plate enough that it makes for a hard fit. I drilled them out and then had the nuts welded. P.S. You don't really need an installation tool. I just used a bolt and air driver.
 

stevepsd

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Alan said:
Stevepsd:

I first used Rivnuts, but the head of the nut spaces out the skid plate enough that it makes for a hard fit. I drilled them out and then had the nuts welded. P.S. You don't really need an installation tool. I just used a bolt and air driver.
Which version Rivnuts did you use?

The 'Rivnut EZ - Thin Head Round Body' version only has a head thickness of 0.40mm (0.0157")...which is a quarter of thickness of the standard Rivnut - 1.58mm (0.062").
 

Alan

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stevepsd said:
Which version Rivnuts did you use?

The 'Rivnut EZ - Thin Head Round Body' version only has a head thickness of 0.40mm (0.0157")...which is a quarter of thickness of the standard Rivnut - 1.58mm (0.062").
Mine were the standard ones. The thin head ones might work. I had a hard time finding someone who would sell me only a few and you need two sizes.
 
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