Airscrew Adjustment to fix off-idle stumble and Throttle Body Sync - w/ pigtails

RED CAT · Nov 21, 2012

Received my Harmonizer in the mail today. Will be giving it a test run this winter. Hope I can figure it out. No real instructions except whats on the front of the unit. Nice unit though. ::001::

Dallara · Nov 22, 2012

RED CAT said:
Received my Harmonizer in the mail today. Will be giving it a test run this winter. Hope I can figure it out. No real instructions except whats on the front of the unit. Nice unit though. ::001::

Believe me, you won't need any instructions. Easiest synch tool I've ever used, and it makes it so fast & easy you'll be done & finished before you could have read any instructions.

However, if you really want some basic directions for using the unit there's a few somewhere in the first few pages of the Harmonizer thread over on ADVrider where you ordered the unit.

Have fun!

Dallara

~

triman11427 · Dec 28, 2012

I have an old Twinmax I'm going to use for the TBS. Is the tubing which comes with the Twinmax the correct diameter? These were last used on a boxer twin and I don't want to get started without the proper size tubing.

triman11427 · Jan 1, 2013

japako said:
It sounds like you may be cutting your stock vacuum line. If you want to put that back to stock, it will cost you about 9 bucks..

If you know a tech at your shop, ask them for a 4" piece of 1/8" fuel line. Buy a 1/8 x1/8 x5/32 vacuum tee. Use the two 1/8" to connect to the left throttle body and sensor with the tee between and the 5/32" for the Harmonizer. I also removed the oem vacuum cap on the right throttle body and replaced that with a 1/8" vacuum cap. This setup works well, however you may wish to use something else that would work just as well..

i havent been able to find the vacuum T size you recommend. I've only found 1/8x 1/8x 3/16. Will that work?

triman11427 · Jan 15, 2013

This is my first attempt at a TB sync so excuse the noobie question. I'm using a Twinmax. Does it make a difference if I remove the left side hose from the sensor or the throttle body to attach to the Twinmax. I'm finding it easier to remove the end which attaches to the sensor. The hoses are not coming off easily an I don't want to force anything. Any suggestions?

tubebender · Jan 15, 2013

triman11427 said:
This is my first attempt at a TB sync so excuse the noobie question. I'm using a Twinmax. Does it make a difference if I remove the left side hose from the sensor or the throttle body to attach to the Twinmax. I'm finding it easier to remove the end which attaches to the sensor. The hoses are not coming off easily an I don't want to force anything. Any suggestions?

I'm going to assume you meen where to attach the T fitting. It does not matter as long as there are no leaks.
I do it on the sensor side - keep the hose from the T to the sensor as short as possible. (1")

triman11427 · Jan 26, 2013

I sorted this out and as usual this is much easier to do once you get in there and try it. My next question is why would there be such a wide discrepancy between CO settings for different bikes. I've read settings from 0-+10. Also, once you change the CO setting will that affect the bikes performance in the mountains vs. sea level?

F16Viper68 · Feb 24, 2013

Today I was able to try out the airscrew adjustment (no pigtails). It didn't address the idle stumble but it certainly improved throttle response in S mode. IMHO it made S mode usable in stop and go conditions. Normally I'd switch to T mode because I couldn't stand the lurching while taking off. I'm guessing a ECU reflash is going to be needed to address the idle.

Prior to adjustment:
Left Screw - Out 180 degrees
Right Screw (white) - fully closed
TB Sync - Just slightly off

After adjustment:
Left screw - 270 degrees
Right Screw - 270 degrees
TB Sync - Dead on (interesting).

Dave...

Nimbus · Feb 24, 2013

F16Viper68 said:
Today I was able to try out the airscrew adjustment (no pigtails). It didn't address the idle stumble but it certainly improved throttle response in S mode. IMHO it made S mode usable in stop and go conditions. Normally I'd switch to T mode because I couldn't stand the lurching while taking off. I'm guessing a ECU reflash is going to be needed to address the idle.

Prior to adjustment:
Left Screw - Out 180 degrees
Right Screw (white) - fully closed
TB Sync - Just slightly off

After adjustment:
Left screw - 270 degrees
Right Screw - 270 degrees
TB Sync - Dead on (interesting).

Dave...

Yeah, this little maintenance task took me like an hour tops, and I could now do it in less time (that is with the Altrider bars in the way). But what an improvement. I put 6,000 miles on the bike and should have done it at 4K like recommended. It truly feels like a different bike. Smoother, less grumbly at low revs and high gears, just sweet. And it runs down my road at 8mph in 1st gear without the throttle as advertised. Also, I haven't checked the fuel mileage (stupidly lifted a full tank ha ha) since doing the sync, but I my instant mpg looks to have gone up significantly.

F16Viper68 · Feb 24, 2013

Nimbus said:
Yeah, this little maintenance task took me like an hour tops, and I could now do it in less time (that is with the Altrider bars in the way). But what an improvement. I put 6,000 miles on the bike and should have done it at 4K like recommended. It truly feels like a different bike. Smoother, less grumbly at low revs and high gears, just sweet. And it runs down my road at 8mph in 1st gear without the throttle as advertised. Also, I haven't checked the fuel mileage (stupidly lifted a full tank ha ha) since doing the sync, but I my instant mpg looks to have gone up significantly.

Yeah, taking off the SW-Motech crash bars off the left side and refilling my Motion Pro Sync tool took the most amount of time. Once I figured out where the connection points where on the throttle bodies (service manual is lame with helping find them) it didn't take any time at all. Nothing compared to sync'ing the four carbs on my 1981 Honda CB650C. That damn thing... ::010::

I agree it did improve the vibes and grumbles a bit too. Which I'm very happy about since I've had two things fall of this bike due to being vibrated loose. :'( Never had I had to use so much Loctite on a bike.

Dave...

F16Viper68 · Feb 25, 2013

F16Viper68 said:
Yeah, taking off the SW-Motech crash bars off the left side and refilling my Motion Pro Sync tool took the most amount of time. Once I figured out where the connection points where on the throttle bodies (service manual is lame with helping find them) it didn't take any time at all. Nothing compared to sync'ing the four carbs on my 1981 Honda CB650C. That damn thing... ::010::

I agree it did improve the vibes and grumbles a bit too. Which I'm very happy about since I've had two things fall of this bike due to being vibrated loose. :'( Never have I had to use so much Loctite on a bike.

Dave...

Nimbus · Feb 25, 2013

You actually don't have to remove the bar on that side. I have had that side guard off (it's very tight), but you don't even have to do that for the sync. All you do is undo the bolts, slide the plastic far enough up/over to access the tank bolt, and have at it. Somebody in this thread mentioned that a long while back (many pages) and I thank them.

F16Viper68 · Feb 25, 2013

Nimbus said:
You actually don't have to remove the bar on that side. I have had that side guard off (it's very tight), but you don't even have to do that for the sync. All you do is undo the bolts, slide the plastic far enough up/over to access the tank bolt, and have at it. Somebody in this thread mentioned that a long while back (many pages) and I thank them.

Thank you for that tip! I'll give it a whirl next time. I was sitting there last night thinking how this is going to get old...quick.

Dave...

fredz43 · Feb 25, 2013

F16Viper68 said:
Thank you for that tip! I'll give it a whirl next time. I was sitting there last night thinking how this is going to get old...quick.

Dave...

I have mentioned that several times and recommend that you don't have to remove all the bolts on the left cover, just 2 or 3 at the rear so that you can get to the tank bolt. Also it makes it easier for the next time if you replace that left tank bolt with a hex head bolt. I use my 10 mm ratcheting box end wrench to easily remove that bolt now. I have the SW Motech bars and they haven't been off since I installed them 20,000 miles ago.

Karson · Feb 25, 2013

fredz43 said:
I use my 10 mm ratcheting box end wrench to easily remove that bolt now.

Thank you for helping me spend $40+ more on craftsman tools at ace the next time i go there.

the few times i ever need to get to the left side for something, using your described method will save me some headache on getting the bolts aligned when putting the whole fairing back up...

vmaxaust · Feb 26, 2013

Can anyone tell me where to buy the Harmoniser?
Can't find "Grok" in a Google search.

Sam

However, when I got the "Harmonizer" from Grok I entered a whole new world.

.

Dallara

~
[/quote]

snakebitten · Feb 26, 2013

Dallara is buying them all up, I suspect.

Tricky devil.

F16Viper68 · Feb 26, 2013

snakebitten said:
Dallara is buying them all up, I suspect.

Tricky devil.

Last I saw on ADV he was expecting a limited amount to be available March 4th. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701625

I know the Motion Pro tool has been bashed repeatedly but it worked fine for me this weekend.

Today was the first time I've been able to take the bike out for a long ride since adjusting the air mixture. I've been very impressed with the mod. It's like Touring mode but with a lot more power!

Dave...

vmaxaust · Feb 27, 2013

Thanks for the info.

Sam

F16Viper68 · Mar 5, 2013

Looks like Gronk pushed it out to March 8th.

Airscrew Adjustment to fix off-idle stumble and Throttle Body Sync - w/ pigtails

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