Accidently sprayed Purple Power on aluminum parts, now they are stained! Help!

[Super10East]

I had it laying around and used it, not knowing it was an acid that could eat away at the aluminum. Now most if not all aluminum parts have these white stains. I'm not looking for 100% fix, but at least maybe 75% fix. Honestly, the cosmetics don't even bother me at all. But I am curious as to a solution for this type of problem.

If anyone knows, that's great, but if you know someone that would know, send me in the right direction. Appreciate the help, thanks.

 

[RCinNC]

You could try Mother's Aluminum Polish and a buffing wheel chucked into a Dremel tool. I don't know for sure if it would work, but the polish is a mild abrasive and might buff the stains out.....

 

[Super10East]

You could try Mother's Aluminum Polish and a buffing wheel chucked into a Dremel tool. I don't know for sure if it would work, but the polish is a mild abrasive and might buff the stains out.....

This is exactly the scenario I've been learning towards. Will probably head to the store tomorrow and get some polish and see how far I can take it in a very small area. Thanks!

 

[Don in Lodi]

How long did it stay on before you attempted to rinse it off?The staining is in the finish, not the aluminum, any polishing is going to have to remove the finish to remove the stain. Any car battery accidents a person may have leaves the stain in the paint for decades. It's a chemical change in the pigments. Oxidation, polishing, dozens of washings, nada. Rinse within seconds of spill, or explain to customer why their paint isn't the same as it was when it came in. :'(

McGuire's Ultimate gets mentioned as a slightly better way to go over 1500 grit wet sanding. Lots of damaged paint out on the forums.

 

[Sierra1]

What about scuff and repaint/wrap?

 

[Squibb]

Horrible problem this. I put my car in for service a while back - picked it up all shiny & valeted only to find they had used acidic wheel cleaner & probably let it dry. They had obviously used a secondary agent to reproduce the normal lustre (silicone spray?) but once that washed away in the rain, I could see the staining emerge as well as discolouration of the calipers. Really annoying, but when it only emerges weeks later it is difficult to take forward a complaint effectively.

With the OPs issue, hopefully the cleaner has been neutralised by now with a thorough wash/scrub. Then I wonder if some HD engine brightener might help. I think it is an S-Doc product labelled HD, but it certainly seems pretty effective. Takes my Electraglide engine cases back to black, even when heaviy stained following a long tour.
See the link ........... https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/engine-brightener
Sadly only a means of covering up the indiscretion & will need a fresh application from time to time.

I would avoid trying to use any form of abrasive, certainly on the engine cases. The calipers may be more difficult to improve but they could be removed & sent for a professional refurb (C £50 each here in the UK) if the staining remains too visible. That's the trouble, like a dent on the driver's door of your car - every time you walk up to the thing your eye falls on the damage. Such is life.

Ride Safe ................... KEN

 

[Don in Lodi]

The caliper just needs a quick shot of hi-temp satin. ::008::

 

[2daMax]

Coat of new paint. I've seen a S10 owner repainted his engine covers. Wasn't sure any special type of paint was required such as high temperature type, etc..

 

[Spider]

An inexpensive and fun alternative is to cover those parts in dirt. Some of the coolest S10s I've seen on this forum take that approach.

 

[snakebitten]

An inexpensive and fun alternative is to cover those parts in dirt. Some of the coolest S10s I've seen on this forum take that approach.

Genius!

 

[taskmaster86]

This thread is proof for one of the reasons I do not like purple power. To me, simple green cleans just as well, is almost the same price but rinses off much easier and is not as harsh as purple power. Also, I only use those degreasers on parts that are really dirty. For normal dirt and road grime, a strong solution of car wash soap works well enough and is much safer than any of the degreasing solutions.

To get ADV bikes or any hard to wash item really clean, look into getting a foam cannon. It turns car wash soap into a rich, thick, bubbly foam that gets into all the cracks and crevices, allowing the contamination to be easily brushed and rinsed away. A bit expensive up front but worth the cost IMO.

 

[Super10East]

What about scuff and repaint/wrap?

Since starting this thread I've ignored the stains. However, coming back to it I've been thinking this would be a good option. What would you say something like that would cost? I'd imagine I could disassemble the main engine parts on the sides and take them somewhere, or do it myself? Redoing them back to OEM would be perfect.

 

[Super10East]

How long did it stay on before you attempted to rinse it off?The staining is in the finish, not the aluminum, any polishing is going to have to remove the finish to remove the stain. Any car battery accidents a person may have leaves the stain in the paint for decades. It's a chemical change in the pigments. Oxidation, polishing, dozens of washings, nada. Rinse within seconds of spill, or explain to customer why their paint isn't the same as it was when it came in. :'(

McGuire's Ultimate gets mentioned as a slightly better way to go over 1500 grit wet sanding. Lots of damaged paint out on the forums.

McGuire's Ultimate eh? This is something a bit new to me. What would be the process for something like photo 2 and 3 above?

 

[Sierra1]

No idea on cost. If you're good at masking, do-it-yourself would be relatively cheap & easy. I've been thinking about finding out if that bronze-ish engine color is a paint or an anodization. I'm thinking it would look good as a crash bar color.

 

[Super10East]

No idea on cost. If you're good at masking, do-it-yourself would be relatively cheap & easy. I've been thinking about finding out if that bronze-ish engine color is a paint or an anodization. I'm thinking it would look good as a crash bar color.

Found a few resources: This site has Colour Mat Gray Metallic 3, which from this site confirms the specific spec color variant. (edit: On second check, I think this color only refers to elements like the gas tank, different plastics. Not stuff like the crankcase covers, which I'm aiming for.)

I could also call Yamaha Corporate and ask for the specific color spec for my model on the Crankcase Cover 1 and 2 (part #s 23P-15411-00-00, 23P-15421-01-00)

 

[Super10East]

Coat of new paint. I've seen a S10 owner repainted his engine covers. Wasn't sure any special type of paint was required such as high temperature type, etc..

That's what I think I'll be doing: this site appears to have many of the OEM colors in different aerosols/paints/pens/etc.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I suggest oven cleaner. That's how I clean off everything on my bike. Works like a charm!! No need to do color matching. Everything will be bright and shiny.

 

[spklbuk]

I would go a little milder than oven cleaner and try Shout laundry enzyme. Spray liberally. Soft brush. Soak. Rinse.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I would go a little milder than oven cleaner and try Shout laundry enzyme. Spray liberally. Soft brush. Soak. Rinse.

I thought he was talking about stripping the anodize to paint. Ooops...

 

[s.ga.rider]

Take it offroad and cover it in mud. No help.... I know. lol