patrickg450
Well-Known Member
I exercise my ABS everytime I ride
Same with my '13. Was watching it after reading this thread, and the ABS does stay on until you start rolling. At least mine does every time after an engine cycle.Juan said:On my 2013 Gen 1, the ABS stays on when the bike is started. It goes off when the bike starts rolling (and reaches 10 kph). That's what it's supposed to do, according to the manual
Moar bleeding!Some worst case scenario where air gets introduced to the pump and the brake pedal feels like there is no resistance (not woody feeling). Cycle this to move air out from the ABS unit and you may need to do this more than 10X.
ABS is gone , just bleed again , do not cycle ABS . Bleed right front , left front , rear, pull ABS motor fuse out . You have both brakes now , just no ABS .I hope I'm not beating a dead horse so here goes.…
I have a 2012 S10 with 120K miles on her and not to long ago my back brake refused to work. No lever movement and no rear breaking. I thought, must be a bad rear break master cylinder, so I ordered a rebuild kit for it. I installed the kit and went thru the bleed process as outlined in the manual and cycled the ABS pump. BTW, stepping on the brake with the jumper in and then turning the key on activates the pump, simple. Anyway, at this point when I cycle the pump I can feel it in the rear break lever (and the front when I hold them together) and it appears that the line at the top of the rear break master cylinder is full of fluid. My problem is the line going to the caliper is not filling up and the fluid in the reservoir is not dropping. I have cycled the pump so many times now I am concerned I might burn out the motor (30-40+).
I have to admit that I am "one of those guys" that never cycled out the old break fluid for new.. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.... Actually, I was afraid to mess with the ABS. I am rapidly learning this lesson the hard way....
Any ideas about what would be causing this to happen? I have run out of ideas...
Also, Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread, it's been a big help.
View attachment 78614
Please keep us updated with your progress.Some correction to the UBS activation while bike is stationary on double stand with the rear wheel being moved while the key is on. It doesn't actuate the UBS. What gets moving inside the ABS is probably pressure dampers. I can hear fluids moving when doing that. Somewhat, the rear pedal gets better and more firm, less spongy feeling.
Anyway, after doing the following, it seems to have cured the rear pedal being hard to depress:
1. 10X cycling. Each cycle, would push out 3X pedal pumping, on week 1. Still get a few sticking issues on the start of the ride which deactivates UBS and ABS.
2. 10X cycling. Same 3X pedal pumping per cycle, on week 2. Still get sticking issues, which deactivates UBS and ABS.
3. 7X cycling. Same 3X pedal pumping per cycle, on week 3. No more sticking issues. Still monitoring if sticking would return and would probably do another few rounds of cycling the ABS.
When it sticks, got to push hard on the pedal to 'retract' the valve, To activate ABS, the bike needs to be shut off and then on again. If it doesn't stick, the ABS and UBS would function.
On some occasions when I was having this issue, using only the front brakes would enable the ABS and UBS to work, but once the rear pedal is pressed, the UBS valve gets stuck and the rear pedal becomes hard.
No. Nothing wrong with the part.Have you changed the master cylinder piston assembly?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk