A long winded arguement for the OEM air filter

scott123007

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I have, for many years, used every type of air filter made for motorcycles, without prejudice. I think we all have our opinions about convenience, performance benefits, and filtration, but out of sheer boredom on a rainy day I had an opportunity to dig a little deeper.

I am familiar with the posting about a V-Strom with more than 400,000 miles on an unmolested engine using 10-40 auto oil, Fram oil filters, and a K&N air filter, so all the arguments about the perceived ability of these products being inadequate are somewhat moot.

Having said that, I have also, long argued, that there is no performance benefit between one type of filter over another on a modern day bike, (without modifying the airbox), because the actual inlet air opening in the airbox is the ultimate restriction. So for all intents and purposes, this post is for all those that really want that "feel good" feeling that we are giving our bike the cleanest air possible even though it probably doesn't make a hill of beans difference in actual longevity.
The air inlet opening into the airbox is approx. 5.7 sq. in.. From there it expands to an unobstructed opening of approx. 35 sq. in. where the air filter goes. What I found very interesting, and the reason for this post, is that the actual surface area of an OEM filter (approx. 511 sq.in.) is approx. 2.3 times as much as a K&N (220 sq. in.), so even if it is twice as restrictive (as in double its ability to filter) as the K&N, it is still able to pass more air, with less pressure differential.

I get my OEM filter from my local dealer for $23.00. I take the top of my airbox off, remove the old one, and toss in a new one. Gone, for me, are the days of dipping my K&N in Mineral Spirits in two separate containers, waiting for the filter to dry, adding oil to the filter, then re-installing. Between the Spirits, filter oil, and wait time to do the job, it's just not worth it to me, to have a reusable filter, that has no other advantages.
 

Scubatech

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I like the simplicity of the stock filter too. I've tried most all of them and looked at a lot of tests but this works for me. The S10 runs great and fulfills it's purpose extremely well.
 

RED CAT

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scott123007 said:
I have, for many years, used every type of air filter made for motorcycles, without prejudice. I think we all have our opinions about convenience, performance benefits, and filtration, but out of sheer boredom on a rainy day I had an opportunity to dig a little deeper.

I am familiar with the posting about a V-Strom with more than 400,000 miles on an unmolested engine using 10-40 auto oil, Fram oil filters, and a K&N air filter, so all the arguments about the perceived inability of these products being inadequate are somewhat moot.

Having said that, I have also, long argued, that there is no performance benefit between one type of filter over another on a modern day bike, (without modifying the airbox), because the actual inlet air opening in the airbox is the ultimate restriction. So for all intents and purposes, this post is for all those that really want that "feel good" feeling that we are giving our bike the cleanest air possible even though it probably doesn't make a hill of beans difference in actual longevity.


The air inlet opening into the airbox is approx. 5.7 sq. in.. From there it expands to an unobstructed opening of approx. 35 sq. in. where the air filter goes. What I found very interesting, and the reason for this post, is that the actual surface area of an OEM filter (approx. 511 sq.in.) is approx. 2.3 times as much as a K&N (220 sq. in.), so even if it is twice as restrictive (as in double its ability to filter) as the K&N, it is still able to pass more air, with less pressure differential.






I get my OEM filter from my local dealer for $23.00. I take the top of my airbox off, remove the old one, and toss in a new one. Gone, for me, are the



days of dipping my K&N in Mineral Spirits in two separate containers, waiting for the filter to dry, adding oil to the filter, then re-installing. Between the Spirits, filter oil, and wait time to do the job, it's just not worth it to me, to have a reusable filter, that has no other advantages.

^^^ What he said. I agree.
 

AdvToorer

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Never heard of the 400k V-Strom but what turned me off of the K&N was the amount of dust in the intake plenum (past the filter) on an older pickup. Yeah, that and the recharge hassle you mentioned.
 

WJBertrand

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Agree with sticking to OEM in most cases, air filters and other parts. The only two vehicles I used a K&N filter in for extended mileages both ended up being oil burners (Toyota Pick Up and & Honda ST1100). I was also seeing dust on the clean side of the filter in both vehicles. I was chasing a poor gas mileage problem with my truck. I tried new spark plugs, valve adjustment, new O2 sensor, etc. I decided that maybe I should clean the K&N filter, even though it had only been 5-6000 miles since the last time, but was out of the oil to re-oil it. I decided to temporarily put the paper air filter back in that was relatively new when I removed it to install the K&N (couldn't bear to toss it) until I could pick up some K&N oil. To my surprise the fuel mileage immediately improved. It this case, not only was the filter letting dust through, I don't even think it was breathing as well as the OEM. Looking at them side by side, I notice the K&N had only half the number of pleats and they were only about 1" deep as opposed to the OEM equivalent paper filter's pleats that were 2" deep. A quick calculation revealed the that K&N had less than 25% of the filtering area of the conventional paper filter. I've sworn off them ever since.
 

RicoChet

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Glad to hear this research was done! I was wondering if picking up a new filter was a good idea but I learn new things every day... thanks to you guys!!
 

markjenn

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I read a comprehensive technical article a while back that says you really can't match the efficiency of a good disposable paper filter. Further, as paper loads it "fails safe"; if you leave a paper filter in too long, the bike will start making less power, but the actual filtering efficiency rises. Oiled foam/gauze is just the opposite.... the engine will continue to run normally but the filter lets more and more dust into the engine.

Oiled foam/gauze has one big advantage - reusability which can lower costs. For a bike that sees a lot of dust (e.g.,a dirt bike) paper just won't last long enough to be feasible - this is the reason most pure dirt bikes have oiled foam and if you wash/re-oil the filter frequently, you can get Okay protection, at least Okay enough for as long as most dirt bikes last. But for a bike that is used mostly on the road, disposable paper makes a lot more sense.

- Mark
 

Pterodactyl

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Just put a K&N decal on your bike, use the OEM filter and be done with it. Both are then contributing their maximum to the performance and longevity of your bike.
 

Jono49

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Pterodactyl said:
Just put a K&N decal on your bike, use the OEM filter and be done with it. Both are then contributing their maximum to the performance and longevity of your bike.
::008:: ::015::
 

tomatocity

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I went back to the OEM air filter but got to thinking why would I go back to the K&N filter. If I did a lot of water crossing? Could the OEM air filter be damaged if the Tenere got washed out BIG time during a water crossing?
 

2daMax

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Hardly felt any difference with DNA and stock. My DNA decided to implode if you have seen the ALERT I put out.

Problem with stock for me is that there is no stock in my country. That means, on line orders and payments for international shipping will add up.

I have to live with reusables. Currently on order for a BMC which they claim 98.5% filtration efficiency.
 

Sierra1

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tomatocity said:
I went back to the OEM air filter but got to thinking why would I go back to the K&N filter. If I did a lot of water crossing? Could the OEM air filter be damaged if the Tenere got washed out BIG time during a water crossing?

If you get water into the airbox, and engine, it won't matter what filter is in there. If there is enough water, the engine will hydro-lock. Seen it happen. As far as aftermarket "performance" filters go....doesn't matter how much air the filter moves, it only matters how much your throttle body (TB) opening can move. Most performance kits have tubes that "neck down" to connect to the TB, reducing the air flow.
 

corndog

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This may make you smile. The well documented miracle strom is owned by WERA (Kith) who frequents the Stromtrooper forum. The bike has more miles now and is still on the road. Kith recently "upgraded" to an S-10.

I also ran a strom (DL-1000) an amazing amount of miles, to me anyway, and sold it at 100,000 miles to a friend who is busy thrashing it. Stroms are VERY durable motos.

As for K&N filters, I too have had them pass dust through into my intake of two different applications. I hated the cleaning drama also. I like the OEM S10 filter, which looks quality and is pre-oiled anyway.
 

Kurgan

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In the past, I put K&N filter products, mainly for modified intake tracts, on several vehicles, 2 and 4 wheeled..

99 ZRX1100, complete airbox removal, individual filters and jetted to match. This showed an 8hp gain on the dyno compared to just running the header with stock airbox and jetting. Made carb work very easy. This bike had a big bore kit, ported head, cams and modifield valve train, full exhaust and the K&N filter and jetting. HP at the rear wheel, as tested on the same dyno, was increased from 96 to 143. It's still going strong at somewhere over 60k miles but the new owner is very meticulous as was I and it was easy to keep an eye on these filters and keep them clean and oiled properly (just enough, not too much). I'd say the K&N's in this application worked well.





2001 ZRX1200, modified airbox, keeping plenum but installing one large K&N. This worked better on the road as crosswinds didn't have any affect on actual air/fuel mix as the pods on the 99 would give all sorts of wild reading with testing equipment which we installed. Still, I wonder if a filter this size that had a paper element would have been better? That's the problem, no one makes the hundreds and hundreds of shapes and sizes except K&N! I lost track of this bike after I sold it, no idea where it is or if it's still on the road or has been wrecked.




1999 Tahoe with K&N Cold Air Intake system. The stock intake system included a multi chambered plenum to reduce intake noise and it was pretty strangled looking. The advantage to this, one large straight intake tube. But the cold-air aspect, a lie in my eyes. Driving around with gauges hooked up to measure actual intake air temp, at lower speeds the engine was eating air that was warmer, not colder. At highway speeds, about the same as the stock setup. Fuel mileage didn't change one bit, not even 1mpg difference driving the same roads every day to/from work. K&N claimed 9hp at roughly 5,000 rpm. Sure, if you've ever had an older Tahoe or Suburban with the 5.7L V8, you know it doesn't like high rpm and runs best below 4,000rpm. I consider this just a stylish modification since it looked impressive but didn't deliver. Best bet would have been to use the straight intake tube from this kit and connect the sealed air filter box which drew in air from the fender with a stock filter.




2005 F150 with K&N Cold Air Intake system. Similar to the Tahoe, the stock intake plenum on this beast was a massive collection of chambers to muffle the noise. In this application mileage did increase by 3mpg on average, but as far as cold air goes, another load of lies since this setup is not a sealed off filter drawing in outside air, it's eating a good portion of hot air from the engine compartment. This truck is still with us and now has 183,000 miles and it's steadily been losing a bit of pep and now uses about a quart of oil every 7,500 miles (been on semi-synthetic since new). Again, the straight intake tube is a benefit, but a paper element in a sealed airbox would be best. If I could go back, like the Tahoe, I'd probably leave the stock intake system instead of this K&N kit. The mileage increase doesn't offset the wear on the engine.




What's really a pain in the ass with the K&N's is the proper cleaning and oiling of the filter. First, out of the box, most are over oiled. They will actually drip and puddle at the bottom. So you have more intake restriction and in a car/truck, this excess oil ends up coating the MASS/Air element, screwing up what the computer reads. Then there's the mystical "it filters better when it's slightly dirty, vs. new" I'm sorry, I'm not comfortable with the idea that a filter needs dirt, to filter out more dirt. At what point is it too dirty...there's no way to tell. Clean it thoroughly with something like Simple Green, dry it, and now time to re-oil it. The oil leaches in to the cotton and spreads quite a bit so you're advised to be somewhat stingy with it and let it settle for a while before thinking about adding more oil. Again, when is enough, since they come over-oiled out of the box?

WAY too much work for a normal vehicle and then reading tests like the link above? Back to good premium aftermarket paper filters or OEM for 4 wheeled vehicles, the bikes, now with most being fuel injected and not having that choked up of an airbox like the old ZRX's, I'm leaning towards keeping the OEM solution as well.
 

Sierra1

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After considering the initial cost of the "cold air kits", and the limited HP improvement, I won't do that again. It's easier and cheaper to stick with OE. Of course the aftermarket kits look and sound cooler.
 

magic

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Kurgan, great post, I agree totally. I have come to the same conclusion about some of these aftermarket "improvements". I tried the cold air pack and a Gibson exhaust system on my last truck. Zero improvement in gas mileage and no noticeable gain in power. The exhaust system rusted through in about 2 years and the cold air pack got sold on craigslist. My new truck will remain 100% stock. Maybe this long winded argument also applies to oil filters too.
 
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