2013 ST power commander and TBS

[Scrogs10]

My 2013 has been flashed by a private guy that helped the performance a fair bit.
Lately I have been thinking it could be smoother. Particularly at lower revs.

I bought a used PC V with 02 optimizer. Fitted today and the the bike appears to run better. only across car park as its wet here today. The thing is I do not know what map I have on the PC or how to access it. And if I did what map I should have on it.

While I was in there I tried to balance the TB's . The right air screw is fixed. I could not move it in either direction. the left screw would move and its only about a 1/4 turn out.
The balancer I used has two bearings in a hose that should line up when balanced. Mine had the lower bearing jumping from side to side rapidly and it got worse as the bike warmed up. I didn't have the T piece in the pipe to include the sensor on the left hand TB. Would this cause the erratic jumping of the bearing ?

Any advise would be much appreciated.

I'm in the U.K if that makes any difference.

 

[2daMax]

The TBS, should include the T so that the MAP sensor is connected. The ECU reads this sensor while in operations. Error code 14 would show up if this sensor is not reading expected values. Having said this, even with the T, sometimes error code 14 will still show up, but goes away after u restart the bike.

The fast changes in the Vacuum is normal. I use a home made manometer filled with ATF, and the meniscus level jumps up and down frantically when viewed through the clear hose. An early attempt to use a needle type vacuum gauge proves to be useless as the needle fluctuation is so fast you can't make out what the reading is.

i am surprised that the air screw is fixed. This should not be. Perhaps loctite was applied. Try a little harder with a quality driver. Reference/painted screw which is fully closed in at factory ought to be 1/2 to 3/4 turns out to help in off idle. Fully in causes the bike to sometimes experience stalling when clutch in, or makes it less forgiving with the throttle-clutch play (easy to kill the engine when trying to move from stand still). I did mine 1/2 out from fully in and never had the bike stalled during clutch in, and never had the engine stalled during take off.

 

[ace50]

I have the same balancer. You need to tee the vacuum line on the left side to check it.
The bouncing of the steel ball is normal, that's the pulse of the cylinders. You are just centering it with the stationary ball.
You should only check it when warmed-up anyway.

BTW, I've checked this balancer against very expensive units and it is just as accurate. Not bad for $35.

 

[giorgionefat]

Hi, Recently I done the same thing on my 2013 St, powercommander and o2 optimizer. I have an Akrap and Arrow headers. We have remapped mine twice, once was just Akrap and K&N filter and that was fine. 103 bhp on the wheel. Then I have changed the header and gained another 2bhp but the bike was horrible between 2200-2500rpm. Almost sold it because of that. Then the guy who remapped it told me that the powercommander is the only solution. He put it on the bike and now runs like a baby. Very smooth, linear and great power delivery. To be honest I don't have a clue how it's set up. I'm from Croatia and you can find his Web site or on fb,,,, Motorfreaktuning,,,,,,highly recommend guy. Maybe he can give you an advice,or you can do a trip to Croatia and do it properly ::021::