Clawdog60
Well-Known Member
All it takes is time and money
Your engine will not be "broken in" until about 7,500 miles, so expect a tight engine, and all that comes with it.Glad I found this thread. Wasn’t certain which words to search for.
I’ve also noticed my 2018 with only 2600 miles is very jerky below 2k. I disagree with the idea of lugging the engine though. ANY motor under low loads can be driven at idle. One thing I learned from riding Hondas with DCT is that most of us shift our bikes waay to high in the rev range when riding casually. My Africa Twin shifted at 2k or below and was in 6th by 30 mph for sure. Did some riders complain, you bet. Honda did this to conserve fuel and they’ve been making these trannys for quite a while now. Switching to S mode would rev higher.
The most recent bike I would “idle ride” is my Vstrom 650 without any jerking from the motor or chain drive. Could the difference be engine size and torque?
I refuse to ride around with the revs up on any bike while leisurely cruising, so I hope this issue is correctable.
I tried 1-3rd and all of them made a horrible banging sound from the shaft drive while riding st idle.
Not good.
This is one of the most discussed topics on this forum. There are many threads on changes or adjustments that help with the off idle response. First remove the excessive play from the throttle cables, back out the idle screws 3/4 of a turn and balance the throttle bodies, increase the CO settings on both cylinders (they are set at zero from the factory. I have mine set at 50). The procedure is outlined somewhere on this forum. You have a Gen 1, so it can be adjusted with the buttons on the dash. Try riding in "T" mode. You could try a Throttle Tamer, it's a new throttle tube with a different profile cam. Look at some of the threads that pertain to this topic. There is a thread here somewhere with a step by step procedure with pictures on the CO settings. Good luck.I being riding my S10 and since day one (about 2 months) I noticed that she does not like to run in any gear when rpm are lower than 2500, the drive line starts jerking.
I noticed that when above 2500 is just great.
Any comment?
Regards
Impatient much? From your other posts, you seem to be changing multiple variables (at least 3) without a progressive method of getting one right and then going for the next.I sure hope this condition does improve with use as in it’s a dealbreaker in it’s current form. I was warned about jumpy throttle response, but the jerky idle and shaft noise surprised me. Not all of us ride the bike like a hooligan 100% of the time. Sometimes I want to go slow to enjoy the scenery and hear what’s going on around me. I don’t need speed or exhaust noise. This was possible on my DL and of course I’m going to compare it to other bikes. Would be an expensive mistake so that’s why I asked you all for help. As mentioned, the bike exhibited jerky idle in gears 1-3 that I tried.
I don’t consider this bike fast or powerful for it’s class so I was hoping for smooth at least.
Here’s a video of a mountain climb at a mere 2k rpm.
You've obviously never ridden a Ducati. LOLANY motor under low loads can be driven at idle.
Checkswrecks, thanks for taking so much time with your reply.Impatient much? From your other posts, you seem to be changing multiple variables (at least 3) without a progressive method of getting one right and then going for the next.
1. The bike is new. It WILL take up to about 5,000 miles to break in and get smooth. Mine and some others would stall near idle, especially if it is hot out, then totally lose that trait as they broke in.
2. The bike is shipped lean and some bikes ship with better idle response than others. While we can't alter the CO as we could on the Gen1 bikes, there are multiple threads about syncing the carbs. This is important in the off-idle regime you are writing of having issues with.
3. You removed the catalytic converter, further leaning the mixture. If it didn't have an issue before, it likely would when combining this with the stock throttle body settings in the previous point. This wasn't Yamaha or the bike, this was you.
4. You wrote of getting a header. Not sure if you did but that again will lean it out even more. Without the flash or cat, you might need a Power Commander to get the mixture right.
5. You wrote of getting it re-flashed and I honestly didn't read enough of your posts to see if you followed through. The flash on this bike for the most part affects the relation of the throttle position to the intake butterflies, not the mixture. Probably no affect on the idle properties, but especially on a bike not yet broken in it can make a big difference in low speed throttle response.
6. Not sure of what else may be unique to you, your environment, or that particular bike.
I'm not flaming you, I'm just trying to relate the need to go back with a plan to work through at least what is here.
Good luck and appreciate keeping us up to date with your progress.
Here's what I would try. Leave the Arrow headers on with the stock muffler. Synchronize the throttle bodies and turn the idle screws out at the same time, aprox. 3/4 turn. Ride it and see how it performs. You have a 2018, so CO settings have to be done by a dealer. Have the dealer set your CO setting in the 25-50 range. I have my 2013 set at 50. I really didn't notice any improvement until I got to 40. Sounds like you have taken care of the throttle cable slack. Good luck.Yup, CAT is part of OEM header.
I wasn’t the one who suggested new owners need six thousand miles before the full capabilities of the S10 are revealed. I have done my best to explain an issue and the current configuration in hopes of finding a solution.
This is my first throttle by wire, but that doesn’t make thirty two years of riding everything from two stroke dirt bikes to super sport worthless. This is why I come here for advice.
I spoke at length with the PO and am confident that headers where his only engine mod. He’s an older guy (than me) who hates emission devices.
So, should I swap the OE headers back or mess with throttle bodies?
BTW, tightening the throttle cable made a huuge difference; ridiculous if the shop sold it that way.
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For clarification the issue we’re discussing is after clutch engagement when the bike is idling down the road.No offense guys but I think some smoother clutch control is in order. I'm pretty damn good at that part of it but I totally suck at slow speed!! It's not the bikes fault at all. This is one of the smoothest motors from idle to redline. There is zero jerkiness at any RPM.