Valve Adjust 2014 ES

[RED CAT]

Half way through this horrible job. I somehow thought that Yamaha would have made the job a little easier on the Gen 2 bikes. But alas no such luck. The valve cover is still a bitch and the CCT is worse than before. I knew that at 42000 kms/25000 miles the exhaust valves would be tight as they were on my 2012 bike. The only good news was that the Intake valves were ok, so only had to pull the exhaust cam and not the intake cam. Got them all in spec with thinner shims. Zip tied the cam chain to the intake cam sprocket and marked all the appropriate spots with white marker. Now I'm having a heck of a time getting that CCT Pressed back into the circlip for installation. May take a trip to my local Dealer to see how they do it. Managed it on my own on my 2012 bike but this one seems tougher. Anyone got any ideas not already posted on here? Must be a money losing proposition for a Dealer to do this job. The amount of stuff you have to remove just to get to the valves is amazing. Fun!

 

[ov1]

does this video help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBNlPRWF5LE

 

[RED CAT]

Looks easy in the video but haven't had any luck trying it that way. The socket just slips. I'll try it again. Thanks.

 

[BWC]

Yes, I also found resetting the 14+ cam chain tensioner a little more challenging than the 12-13 when upgrading mine. Might have something to do with changes made to the newer part. The video shows what's needed to be done, but I ended up temporarily screwing the tensioner to a small block of wood and holding it in a vice. Using a battery drill with a small socket, and even but firm pressure it will turn back in allowing you to reset the retaining clip.
Another idea that has been used is a drill press carefully on low speed to turn it back in. It requires just the right amount of pressure and turning and it will retract.
Learned this the hard way when I tripped the new style tensioner out of the box and had to reset it before installation.
The upside of this valve adjust is it may not need another one for a long time. ::008::

 

[BHTENERE]

I have not changed mine yet on my '12 Tenere with 15K miles, but I always wondered why the Cam chain tensioner has to be retracted when installing it and then released. When you removed the original one, didn't you just unscrew the mounting bolts and it came right out? I would think that you would be able to just install it with it fully extended and just slowly tighten the mounting bolts. I would think that this would also help prevent the cam chain from jumping a tooth, rather than having to "pop" it after installing it in the retracted position. Just a thought.....

 

[JimmyP]

Looks easy in the video but haven't had any luck trying it that way. The socket just slips. I'll try it again. Thanks.

Just finished my third valve adjustment on my '12... on the CCT, I have a block of wood that I drilled a hole the size of my socket so it won't slip out and I set (screw in) the plunger with the whole unit upside down - prevents it flying if I didn't get the clip set properly.

2x4 block on back of CCT
CCT back.
CCT plunger on socket.
Socket secured in hole of 2x4.
2x4 on garage floor.

Then you just spin the CCT using the blocks of wood for friction hold while you wind her up... once wound, set the spring clip.

 

[RED CAT]

Thanks guys. All great ideas. I'll try a few today. Oh and as for just screwing the CCT back into the bike without resetting it, won't work. It will never move in and put way too much pressure on the cam chain destroying parts in no time. Like in 2 minutes.

 

[RED CAT]

OK. Tried all these different methods but the big problem is the new CCT on the Gen2 is different. I can get it to more or less to screw down but then the inside worm gear also spins not letting the barrel all the way down to the circlip. Even tried inserting a O Ring from an O Ring chain to stop it from spinning. No luck. Heading the Dealer to see what they do. Betting they won't know either.

 

[Koinz]

does this video help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBNlPRWF5LE

I did something similar with my drill press. Held the body of the tensioner in a vise and use the drill chuck to turn (by hand) and applied light down pressure to spin it down. Once it bottoms out, its easy to hold it there while engaging the clip.

here's my legacy post about it http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=10578.msg175558#msg175558

 

[airmed]

I love working on my own stuff, but sometimes the frustrations, bloodied knuckles, and colorful words exclaimed is just not worth the effort. I'd rather spend an extra day at work on an overtime shift and pay someone else to deal with the hassel. I do respect those who are up to that challenge, though.

 

[RED CAT]

Hopefully we can end this discussion. My Dealer, Blackfoot Motorsports managed to get it recessed for me free of charge. They did work on it for 1/2 hour too. Thanks Blackfoot. These guys have been good to me all along. Great people. Asked how they did it but only said a combination of the exact pressure and turning did the trick.

 

[RonH]

I have not changed mine yet on my '12 Tenere with 15K miles, but I always wondered why the Cam chain tensioner has to be retracted when installing it and then released. When you removed the original one, didn't you just unscrew the mounting bolts and it came right out? I would think that you would be able to just install it with it fully extended and just slowly tighten the mounting bolts. I would think that this would also help prevent the cam chain from jumping a tooth, rather than having to "pop" it after installing it in the retracted position. Just a thought.....

No you can't do it this way. The reason is as you unbolt the tensioner from the engine and remove it, the tensioner extends to it's full length, and it can not be retracted except using the special procedure. You can't reinstall it fully extended.
I fought retracting my new tensioner until a little practice. You have to turn and apply pressure gradually. Too much pressure or too fast turning you will be fighting for hours.

 

[JRE]

I love working on my own stuff, but sometimes the frustrations, bloodied knuckles, and colorful words exclaimed is just not worth the effort. I'd rather spend an extra day at work on an overtime shift and pay someone else to deal with the hassel. I do respect those who are up to that challenge, though.

Agreed, especially with something as potentially catastrophic as valves. At least if it gets jacked up, they're on the hook to repair it.

 

[Motowalt]

just did the valves on my 2012
I'm installing a new 2014 cam chain tensioner
To push the piston in, I placed it in padded vice jaws.
Incrementally squeeze the jaws closer, only about 1/16" at a time (you'll feel resistance if you try to squeeze further without rotating the CCT on it's internal threads) and then rotate the CCT one full turn in the vice jaws.
Eventually you will move the upper snap ring into the top groove.

Now my problem is I can't get the CCT to release after re-installation.

Anyone have any tips here?

 

[Checkswrecks]

Per Greg The Pole's most excellent write-up here:
https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2013/10/29/tenere-valve-check-and-adjustment/


"Installed the tensioner, and then used a large flat blade screw driver to push the left guide against the tensioner, which unseats the snap ring, and sets the tensioner."


I'll just add that if the cam cover is still off, it's a REALLY good idea to wire the cam chain to all three sprockets. When the tensioner comes out, it really snaps and we've had a few people where the chain jumped a tooth.

 

[cyclemike4]

I understand the fight with the timing chain tensioner. My 2012 tensioner I could almost set back just using my hands. It really was pretty easy. I put the 14 model tensioner in and it is a pain. I tried must have been a hour and half to get it set back. I had the worm gear spin in the housing from the threads binding from too much pressure getting put on the plunger. with less pressure the plunger would spin even with a rubber grip I was using on it. I decided that my vise threads were too coarse for the job. I had a huge C clamp with fine threads. I clamped the C clamp in my vise. I put a small piece of rubber on the solid end of the C clamp. A bit of the tread I cut out of a old tire. Then the body of the tensioner was getting pressed by the threaded part of the clamp with the rotating foot on it. With the finer threads of the C clamp I could feel the pressure on the tensioner much better. I could turn the tensioner body about a quarter turn as I turned the C clamp in. Then I would start to bind I could back off the C clamp just a tad and turn the tensioner another quarter turn to half a turn. Each time I could feel the tension getting to the point that the worm gear would slip. I could just back off the C clamp enough to keep the plunger from slipping in the rubber pad and then start another quarter to half a turn. It went easy after I tried it that way. It did take a healthy push from a screw driver on the tensioner guide to get it kicked back out.

 

[Motowalt]

Yes,
Great writeup by Greg...thanks for posting the link...I had read it a while back....

I went back into the garage today intent on finishing the job...installed two extra zip ties so had all three sprockets tied down...
However, try as I might, the new 2014 cam chain tensioner would not release...even tried directly pushing on it with a long screwdriver from above...no luck..
Removed the CCT, put it back in the vise and it still would not release...I'm thinking it is defective from Yamaha and not taking a chance on it...
So I'm giving up on that and ordering a Graves manual CCT...aaarrgh!...


"Per Greg The Pole's most excellent write-up here:
https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2013/10/29/tenere-valve-check-and-adjustment/


"Installed the tensioner, and then used a large flat blade screw driver to push the left guide against the tensioner, which unseats the snap ring, and sets the tensioner."


I'll just add that if the cam cover is still off, it's a REALLY good idea to wire the cam chain to all three sprockets. When the tensioner comes out, it really snaps and we've had a few people where the chain jumped a tooth."

 

[Jeff Milleman]

Thanks Checkswrecks for finding Greg's write up , ill use it in about 6k miles .Sure hope i can find it then!!! How about the shim kit ? where is the best place to get that ? I'm an Auto and Diesel Tech so hopefully I can handle this !! ::008::

 

[Motowalt]

At 31,000 miles, the intake valves were right in the middle of spec.
But all 4 exhaust valves were too tight.

My local dealer's parts department only stocks the full shim kit.
Individual shims must be ordered and then I'd have to wait for those.

So I went to the service department and they were kind enough to swap shims with me, no charge.

 

[Checkswrecks]

At 31,000 miles, the intake valves were right in the middle of spec.
But all 4 exhaust valves were too tight.

My local dealer's parts department only stocks the full shim kit.
Individual shims must be ordered and then I'd have to wait for those.

So I went to the service department and they were kind enough to swap shims with me, no charge.

It's normal for the exhaust valves to change while the intakes hardly do, because the intakes don't have the heat and wear which the exhaust valves have.


Fairly common for local dealers to either swap shims for a small fee or sell individual shims. Usually the service manager has a better handle on what they can do than the kid at the parts window will. If they both want to sell an entire set, go elsewhere.


Besides, with the ability to order parts on the intertoobs and overnight delivery these days . . .