She'll helix HX5

[Andyb43]

Anyone used this in their S10?

 

[Xt1200zsupertenere]

It is A car-oil ::007:: ::007:: , dont put it in A motorcycle .... Not MA rated ( wet clutch )

 

[Xt1200zsupertenere]

It is A car-oil ::007:: ::007:: , dont put it in A motorcycle .... Not MA rated ( wet clutch )

http://www.widik.se/shell-helix-rimula-advance-spirax.asp?query=advance

 

[Don in Lodi]

If it says Energy Conserving in the little roundel on the back it has friction modifiers that will wreck a clutch. There are still a few automotive oils out there that haven't gone with the slickery additives.

 

[EricV]

The Shell Helix HX5 in the yellow bottle is is an energy conserving car oil w/o MA spec, so don't use that.

From the Shell Swedish web site - Shell Helix HX5 10W- 40 is a quality oil based on mineral base oils with high viscosity index and specially selected additives. The oil is manufactured to withstand cold conditions for both petrol and diesel engines in passenger cars.


The Shell Advance line of oils are motorcycle rated and carry MA2, JASO or better ratings and would be fine.

 

[Scouse]

I have used car packaged semi synthetic 10/40 oil in various bikes over the years. A friend of mine uses shell helix H7 semi synth 10/40 in his Honda VTR 1000, 20.000 miles on it and it's running fine. Theres another chap our way who races a couple of Jap fours, a cb600 and a suzuki 750gixxer that uses vauxhalls own brand 10/40 semi synth without problems according to what he tells me.
Obviously if bike is still in warranty use what manufacturer says, otherwise use whatever you're comfortable with.

 

[Don in Lodi]

The Energy Conserving part of the oil we're concerned with is a friction modifier, not a weight issue, think Slick 50. It gets in between moving parts to lessen friction. Not good for a wet clutch. Yes, 0-20 is more efficient than 20-50, but not interchangeable. Even a full synthetic without modifiers is ok, it's that extra bit of chemistry that's the troublesome part.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Looking at photos of a bottle, it's not made for the US market, so does not have the API roundel. This means that all the talk about looking for the "energy conserving" is a moot point, as it's not required to be printed in the first place.

The Shell spec sheets are confusing, as it appears the oil has different ratings in different countries. One shows it as API SN/CF, while another shows SL/CF. EricV found yet a different one.

What I'm not seeing but Eric seems to have, are claims about energy conserving or higher levels of molybdenum, which is the lubricant usually associated with that marking. Moly is what kills wet clutches.

So the bottom line answer is clear as mud.

 

[EricV]

I am reading into the wording a bit. And you're correct, not the US and the OP is in the UK, so unknown if the EU offerings of Shell motor oils follow the same additive package as in the US or even other parts of the EU.

While I'm a fan of thinking outside the box and not always believing everything moto specific has a reason, the increasing amounts of additives and ever needful marketing to "prove" one oil is better than another can confuse anyone. I have seen diesel oils in the US that exceed the API and JASO specs for MA/MA2 oils, but appear to still have lower levels of zinc, which is helpful to transmissions, i.e. engines with the same oil flowing thru the trans as the engine, like motorcycles.

In the end, there have been instances of wet clutch plates being damaged by some auto oils, and plenty of people running non-moto oils w/o issue, though the unknowns are far greater than the knowns.

Do what makes you happy, just be prepared to accept the results. Oil, tire, tyre and gun threads all sort of end up the same way.

To answer the OP's question; No.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Cool, just went to the guy from Sweden's link, XT1200, Shell does make an MA/MA2 motorcycle specific oil, Shell Advance, MC. I used to use an MC spec Castrol oil until my shop closed, ACT-EVO, straight dino or a syn. It's still available, just not handy. I use the Valvoline MC spec in the Tenere now because my Napa store has it on the shelf. I have no problem using automotive oils, I have in the past. I've always known to look at that API roundel. After this thread I've learned you should use one of the older obsolete spec oils. I've learned when API started, in the 20's?, they were at SA, they're now at SN... SF/SG is apparently safe for a wet clutch and shared tranny. Higher zinc content than today's SM/SN? I think that was what it was.
More info than I needed to know. ::010::

 

[WJBertrand]

I think to earn the API Energy conserving rating, the oil has to have both the friction modifier and a 10w-30 weight or less. That means a 10w-40 automobile oil would not have the energy conserving badge but may still have the additive package, at least in the US. Therefore I stay clear of non-motorcycle rated oils. My 0.02.


-Jeff

 

[2daMax]

30 Wt and lower oil is mostly Energy Conserving and ILSAC GF4 or 5 (Starburst Logo). Stay clear of this as said earlier.
> 40Wt oil, not sure if Friction Modifiers are added. If unsure, do not use for MC. Car engines does not shear the oil as much with a wet sump in a MC. Shear stability is a concern if the car oil is not shear stable and would require a shorter oil change interval.

I know a chap who's been riding MC for 30+ years and he says, Car engine oil, 20W 50 Castrol GTX, and change every 3000km. He uses it on his 22 year old BMW 1150GS. He owns or has owned lots of other bikes too.

Shell Rotella T is a Heavy Duty Engine Oil for Diesel engines but is rated JASO MA. API CI-4 Plus. Many MC owners uses it maybe due to cost reasons. There is a T6 fully synthetic version also.

 

[WJBertrand]

One thing about the older BMWs (boxer) is that they have a dry clutch like a car. Car oil probably works fine in them. I think the singles, vertical twins, fours and the latest water boxers have wet clutches though.


-Jeff