PSA on Maintenance item

Vegas Eggus

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Apr 26, 2024
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At the gates of Zion and Bryce Canyon NP's
After a recent trip I began having some clutch related issues. In hindsight I'm probably really lucky the issues didn't come up during the extended ride.
So I start digging into the situation and note that in the extensive documentation from previous owners there is no mention of clutch or brake bleeds. (2014 S10 for reference)
So I go to do the service yesterday. Brakes bleed fine but the fluid is definitely old. Clutch, well that's where the fun begins. Fluid was toast. Despite all attempts I couldn't get any fluid to flow out the bleed valve. Even taking it completely out zero fluid. After much research and tinkering I now have a master cylinder rebuild and slave cylinder replacement scheduled. I highly suspect both are compromised.
Would a more proactive approach of maintenance have helped? Don't know, but I'm sure it didn't help the situation.
If you haven't addressed this in the last couple of years I'd recommend doing so as a preventative maintenance item. Both are actually fairly easy to accomplish on your own.
 

bimota

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i bleed my brakes and clutch every 18 months and cycle the abs at the same time been doing it on this bike 10 yrs now even on fluid changes it looks like i,m removing new fluids lol

rob
 
Last edited:

bluebuick66

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Apr 23, 2024
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Morris Plains, NJ
I was watching videos recently, and trained mechanics recommend bleeding both systems-clutch and brakes- once a year. I have never done that service in the past but it seems to be straightforward.
 

RCinNC

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Aug 30, 2014
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North Carolina
I flush the brake and clutch fluid every two years, using a Mity Vac vacuum pump so I can do it without a helper. The manual specifies that the brake fluid be replaced every two years; oddly enough, there's no mention of the service interval to replace the clutch fluid. Since it's the same fluid, I replace both at the same time. I think yearly is overkill unless you're doing a lot of track days. I know that even when I change it at two years, it can be kind of hard to distinguish the old fluid for new fluid.

I've also reverse bled the clutch, using a big syringe to push fluid into the bleed nipple and up to the master cylinder. It has its advantages, as there's no danger of sucking the clutch reservoir dry by accident, but you do have to watch out for overflowing the master cylinder reservoir. I've tried to reverse bleed the front brakes, but for some reason I can't push fluid into them; it's almost like there's a check valve or something in the way. Maybe it has to do with the ABS module.
 

OldRider

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Western Kentucky
What I find interesting is the manual recommends dot 4. Some interesting characteristics related to dot 4, doesn't apply to dot 3.

That guy goes against everything that's know about brake fluid. He says dot 3 has a higher boiling point than dot 4 and that's wrong. Say you can't mix 4 with anything else, wrong, 3-4 & 5.1 will mix together. I wouldn't trust anything he says.

.boil.jpg
 

Tenforeplay

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Apr 29, 2023
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Kansas, USA
That guy goes against everything that's know about brake fluid. He says dot 3 has a higher boiling point than dot 4 and that's wrong. Say you can't mix 4 with anything else, wrong, 3-4 & 5.1 will mix together. I wouldn't trust anything he says.

.

View attachment 114289
Missed that.
 

eram310

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Aug 28, 2014
Messages
92
Location
Minneapolis
I replace the brake and clutch fluid on all my motorcycles when needed. (Only the STenere has hydraulic clutch) I use a tester to determine the water content of the hydraulic fluid. You can buy one on amazon at a very reasonable price.
 
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