Now my turn signals don’t work!

Bigpicture

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2014ST1200ES, 106,000 miles, sole owner. A couple of weeks ago I put in a new battery. I soon noticed the electronic suspension warning light stayed on, and I couldn’t get the ES menu to come up. It goes from information display selection function to grip warmer adjusting function, skipping damping force and preload. I took it to the Yamaha dealer, they hooked up the diagnostics and couldn’t resolve anything ( they didn’t charage me).
Went home and tried the reset method by Toadady (Nov. 2015) …… got my ES functions back and the warning light disappeared! BUT…..now my turn signals don‘t work (the dash indicator flashes twice as fast as normal) and the clock resets to 1:00am every time I start the bike. Checked the fuses, all ok.
Anyone have any ideas?
 

Bigguy136

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I always look at what changed. What type/ brand of battery did you install? Are you able to install old battery to see if all is corrected?
Any other electronic add-ons? A re-flash? 100% original?
 

Fennellg

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Unhook the battery for a few hours. While waiting check your fuses. Rehook the battery and see if problem is resolved….
 
Last edited:

Tenforeplay

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When you unhooked the battery, you disconnected the negative first? When you hooked up the new battery, you hooked up the positive first?
 

gapmtn1

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…..now my turn signals don‘t work (the dash indicator flashes twice as fast as normal)
Burned up wire? Rodent damage?

Agree with checking fuses again, with a meter; not visual.

Did 2014 have a wiring recall (not talking about the front brake switch recall) ?
 

Bigpicture

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Location
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2014ST1200ES, 106,000 miles, sole owner. A couple of weeks ago I put in a new battery. I soon noticed the electronic suspension warning light stayed on, and I couldn’t get the ES menu to come up. It goes from information display selection function to grip warmer adjusting function, skipping damping force and preload. I took it to the Yamaha dealer, they hooked up the diagnostics and couldn’t resolve anything ( they didn’t charage me).
Went home and tried the reset method by Toadady (Nov. 2015) …… got my ES functions back and the warning light disappeared! BUT…..now my turn signals don‘t work (the dash indicator flashes twice as fast as normal) and the clock resets to 1:00am every time I start the bike. Checked the fuses, all ok.
Anyone have any ideas?
When you unhooked the battery, you disconnected the negative first? When you hooked up the new battery, you hooked up the positive first?
i guess I didn’t realize the importance of the order of disconnect/reconnect. Is the above the correct way?
 

Bigguy136

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The above is correct. You want the spark to the negative side. Spark to the positive side bad.
Any supporting documents? I agree to remove the negative first and connect it last but the reason is if your wrench touches the frame when disconnecting the negative first, no short/ no issues. If you disconnected the positive first and touch the frame, big sparks. Never heard any reason for having the negative spark vs the positive when reconnecting.
 

Checkswrecks

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Agree on positive being last off first on, mainly for the wrench sparking. But also because if you take the positive off first and there’s a spark it can fry the electronics because of the amperage in a spark.

Big Picture - The clock resetting is the clue of insufficient volts. Never did hear what the new battery is. Is it a 12 or 14 size? AGM or LiB?
I know you just installed it but there are defective new batteries so suggest to have it checked.
 

Cycledude

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Does the Tenere have a flasher ? I do know on a lot of other vehicles if the flasher is going bad the turn signals will flash way faster, a new flasher usually fixes it.
 

Tenman

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I saw a guy connect hot jumper cables to a truck battery. The post had been beat on and had a crack. When he stuck the hot cables to it. The battery exploded and blew battery acid everywhere. I hosed him down.
 

Checkswrecks

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I saw a guy connect hot jumper cables to a truck battery. The post had been beat on and had a crack. When he stuck the hot cables to it. The battery exploded and blew battery acid everywhere. I hosed him down.
Batteries off gas hydrogen. That’s another reason why when jumping you first connect the positive to the battery terminal then should connect the negative somewhere else, such as the engine block.
 

Bigpicture

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Agree on positive being last off first on, mainly for the wrench sparking. But also because if you take the positive off first and there’s a spark it can fry the electronics because of the amperage in a spark.

Big Picture - The clock resetting is the clue of insufficient volts. Never did hear what the new battery is. Is it a 12 or 14 size? AGM or LiB?
I know you just installed it but there are defective new batteries so suggest to have it checked.
Thanks everyone for your responses! Checkswrecks, it’s AGM, 12v. The bike does have a flasher, when on the dash indicator lights are normal, but the turn signals don’t flash. Can anyone tell me where the flasher is located ( I don’t have a manual)?
 

-=clinton=-

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I spent 16 years working on electric forklifts so take this how you will. It sounds like your battery is bad. a 12v battery should set above 13.5 static. if it drops more than 10% meaning 1.3 volts when starting, it's bad or going bad. The alternator should be 14.2. if you don't have a meter buy one. Even a cheap harbor freight version is better than nothing at all. All of this is a long way of saying, I agree with @Checkswrecks, sounds like you got a bad battery.
 

EricV

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Thanks everyone for your responses! Checkswrecks, it’s AGM, 12v. The bike does have a flasher, when on the dash indicator lights are normal, but the turn signals don’t flash. Can anyone tell me where the flasher is located ( I don’t have a manual)?
You didn't understand the question. Exactly what battery did you install? Brand & model number? There are two 'sizes' of batteries that fit the S10. XTZ12S and XTZ14S, both are the same physical size, but the 14 has more CCAs, (Cold Cranking Amps), and is more desirable for the S10.

Your batter is bad. Do NOT believe me. Take it to your local auto parts store and have it load tested. This is free and they will want to charge the battery first on their equipment, so don't expect to wait for the test, you'll need to drop it off and come back, likely the following day.
 

Bigpicture

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Yup, my battery is a YTZ 12S BS. I’ll take it back and exchange for a 14S…..I’ll let you all know if that takes care of my problems.
You guys are all awesome!
 

bimota

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yes

if you have bought a yuasa ytz12s take it back and swop for the yuasa ytz14s if you can i swopped my 5 yr old 12s for the 14s 6 yrs ago and still fires first time with the extra CCA it has

Rob
 
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