Lowering a T7

Welsh roamer

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Good morning all,
I’m currently riding an S10 which I’ll be selling shortly.
I’m considering a T7 as I’d like a lighter bike.
Whilst I can flat foot my S10 I’m on the balls of my feet on the T7 and tip toes on the WR, trouble is here in the UK there’s some great offers on the WR that makes it cheaper than all the other T7 models.
Has anyone lowered a WR and if so by how much and did it affect the bike in any major way.
It’s gonna be used predominantly for road use with some light trails/gravel roads thrown in.
TIA for any input.
 

Welsh roamer

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Hi Rob,
No mate, zero interest.
I took it off sale to do a couple of trips to Europe.
I test rode a T7 world raid yesterday, great bike but not really what I want so may just keep the S10 after all!
It’s nearly at 40k which I’m aware isn’t high mileage for one of these but it puts a lot of people off in the 2nd hand market.
Haven’t found anything else I really like that I’d actually buy.
Husky Norden and Aprillia Tuareg 660 were both lovely when I rode then but don’t trust reliability/part supply etc. not bothered with the GS as everyone has one!
who knows???
 

Treeman

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Speak to Dylan or Rowan at the Yamaha off road experience in Llanidloes.Dylan advises to change the shock linkage on the Tenere WR which is a cheap modification and drop the forks through the top/bottom yokes.He will advise you more about this.
 

Treeman

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Gareth Lloyd at CF Racing is yer man to speak to about a Norden 901.A family run business in Corwen.I have known Gareth for 35 years and he's an honest likable man who you can trust.This is a lovely bike with a far wider comfortable seat than a T7.Fuel tanks are either side of the engine.55+ mpg.204 kg.A bike you could easily ride to Nordkapp and back in comfort.The only thing that put me off was the camshaft issues KTM have had with this engine.However i tend to put over 100.000 miles on bikes,so whatever I buy it has to be good for this.If you only keep a bike say 3 years then I'm sure the Norden will be fine. Steven.
 

bimota

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Gareth Lloyd at CF Racing is yer man to speak to about a Norden 901.A family run business in Corwen.I have known Gareth for 35 years and he's an honest likable man who you can trust.This is a lovely bike with a far wider comfortable seat than a T7.Fuel tanks are either side of the engine.55+ mpg.204 kg.A bike you could easily ride to Nordkapp and back in comfort.The only thing that put me off was the camshaft issues KTM have had with this engine.However i tend to put over 100.000 miles on bikes,so whatever I buy it has to be good for this.If you only keep a bike say 3 years then I'm sure the Norden will be fine. Steven.
i really do like the NORDEN 901 myself but yer don,t trust it

Rob
 

Treeman

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Yep, Certainly for doing 100.000 + with no major engine issues.I raced in the ACU Motocross paddock for 10 years and although KTM products in the paddock are top notch.I would not trust one to take me over 100.000 miles plus around Europe,when bikes from Honda and Yamaha are readily available.There are not many like me around.Most buy bikes on PCP or cash,keep them 3 years and move on to something else.If this is the case the Norden is fine.Your a bit like me Rob,you find something you like and you stick with it.
 

EricV

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There are a wide variety of lowering links for the WR in two different styles. Longer links and a short shock link. All run around ~$200 usd. The main key to keeping the geometry so it's pleasant to ride is raising the forks the correct amount to balance it out. Lowering the rear slows turn in if you do nothing else. Sliding the forks up brings the front end down to even things out. Too much and it will quicken the steering, which can be favorable or make it too twitchy. Individual tastes vary. :) Typically 10-15mm fork change works well for a starting point with lowering links.

The main downside to lowering the suspension is loss of ground clearance during cornering, which likely won't be a big deal for your stated needs and the WR.

While the WR is a peppy beast, still, going from a 1200 to a 250 is quite a change. Have you considered some of the scramblers on the market? Less weight and lower seat height, but still ok for light trail/gravel road use.

On bikes other than the WR I normally suggest a lower seat instead of lowering the suspension. You gain the reach the ground needs, but lose a little hip to knee to peg distance and lose nothing in suspension function/travel.
 

scott123007

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There are a wide variety of lowering links for the WR in two different styles. Longer links and a short shock link. All run around ~$200 usd. The main key to keeping the geometry so it's pleasant to ride is raising the forks the correct amount to balance it out. Lowering the rear slows turn in if you do nothing else. Sliding the forks up brings the front end down to even things out. Too much and it will quicken the steering, which can be favorable or make it too twitchy. Individual tastes vary. :) Typically 10-15mm fork change works well for a starting point with lowering links.

The main downside to lowering the suspension is loss of ground clearance during cornering, which likely won't be a big deal for your stated needs and the WR.

While the WR is a peppy beast, still, going from a 1200 to a 250 is quite a change. Have you considered some of the scramblers on the market? Less weight and lower seat height, but still ok for light trail/gravel road use.

On bikes other than the WR I normally suggest a lower seat instead of lowering the suspension. You gain the reach the ground needs, but lose a little hip to knee to peg distance and lose nothing in suspension function/travel.
"World Raid T7" not WR250;)
 

EricV

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"World Raid T7" not WR250;)
Thanks, that doesn't exist in the US, so a T7 is a T7 is a T7. Its like a short guy buying a GSA instead of a GS and wanting the low version. (I say that having dealt with the wife's GSA Low/Low in the past too.)
 
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