That's a good idea. A dab of JB weld on the end of the grub screw would also hold the weld in place to cure.Maybe you could make a Threaded Plug (about 5mm long), and insert it with a flat or Alem screwdriver and glue and then insert the stud (a little shorter now)……if you weakened the bottom of the hole (where the water comes out), You run the risk of breaking it even more when you adjust the stud...but if there is already a threaded plug on the bottom, the stud will stop on it...and you can adjust the stud to the corresponding tightening torque...(without a plug on the bottom , “maybe” the stud ends up breaking the hole even more when tightened
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something like this
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Great thanks. Can i ask why the new exhaust stud couldn't touch JB weld once its set?I bought some used BMW/5 heads off of ebay. Seller packed them like crap. Dented the hemi combustion chamber. Took my dremel tool, and then smoothed the head with a sanding wheel, then filled the "holes" with JB weld (really cleaned it up).
Reassembled, then ran it for a month. Pulled a head, and the JB weld was still there. The 600's detonated like crazy, but the jb weld held.
My daughter's KTM EXC had the a replated cylinder, and there was a small pin hole leak from the cooling channel into the exhaust port. Smoked white, and used coolant.
Made a pressure test rig, found the leak while the cylinder was submerged, and once dry, covered cooling channel with JB weld (not the qwik, but the standard).
She rode that bike 15 years without a bit of leakage.
You'll be fine if you do this.
1. put a bit of JB weld in the hole. Give it plenty of time to set up, and make sure that the new stud doesn't contact that JB weld.
2. Use red stud mount loctite on the threads to seal the threads and hold the stud (see post above). Don't use teflon tape - that stuff is slippery, which is what you DON'T want.
Reassemble with never-seize on the exposed threads. That way you won't have to back out the stud ever.
Ride the p!ss out of it.