Final Drive Bearing Replacement

Ossaboy2867

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Jan 24, 2017
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Location
Wellsville NY
Ossaboy2867, can you provide some specifics about the size of the socket you bought and what machining you did to it to make the special tool? It's good to have alternatives, just in case one of us ever runs into the same issue as navynuke and gets sidelined over the unavailability of the tool.
I started with measuring the bore.
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Then with that dimension I took my calipers and went shopping for a socket of that size.
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After that you measure the width and depth of the teeth and mill those into the face of the socket.
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You never want to hit those notches on a nut like that hard with a punch. If you start to deform them, you ruin the machined fit the tool relies on to not have the tool slip.
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If you dont have a mill, you could make this tool with a thin cut off wheel and a dremel tool. You would have to do some math and mark areas on some tape to get the teeth perfect.
Diameter X Pi = circumference
Circumference / 4 = evenly spaced teeth.
Rough cut, then dremel to fit.
 

blitz11

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Sep 23, 2014
Messages
314
Location
SW Montana
Nice work. I had to do the same thing to get the swingarm off of the Duke 690 a couple of years ago. Used a 5/8" socket - worked great.

I have a GasGas - good to see the vintage Spanish motorcycle legacy.

Thanks
 

RCinNC

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Aug 30, 2014
Messages
2,858
Location
North Carolina
Excellent, thanks for posting that. When I saw your initial photos, I couldn't understand why there were threads cut into the bottom of the socket; I couldn't tell how the tool actually worked until you put up those close up pictures. I'm going to copy the info from this post and make it part of my service manual, so thanks for writing it up.
 

Ossaboy2867

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Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
103
Location
Wellsville NY
Nice work. I had to do the same thing to get the swingarm off of the Duke 690 a couple of years ago. Used a 5/8" socket - worked great.

I have a GasGas - good to see the vintage Spanish motorcycle legacy.

Thanks
I have bought sockets and welded pins on them for special nuts that have holes for turning.

Yes the ossa brand is near and dear. I have helped build alot of them over the years. Dad has about 40 total and about 20 complete.
 

Ossaboy2867

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Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
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Location
Wellsville NY
Excellent, thanks for posting that. When I saw your initial photos, I couldn't understand why there were threads cut into the bottom of the socket; I couldn't tell how the tool actually worked until you put up those close up pictures. I'm going to copy the info from this post and make it part of my service manual, so thanks for writing it up.
No problem, glad I could help. I might keep track of the re assembly process too for everyone. After looking at this design, Yamaha knows their stuff.
 

Ossaboy2867

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Jan 24, 2017
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Location
Wellsville NY
All the metal parts minus the pinion bearing retainer and old seals. The manual states that you have to re shim eveything if you replace the bearings. I don’t believe that’s correct. If I replaced the case, or matched gear set then yes, you would have to shim. If I replace the bearings with ones that measure exactly the same, you can use the shim stack supplied. DB5EC8B6-B5E1-41AC-AA3A-A46B9B45E09A.jpegD977766B-A6A4-47C3-B879-65D42A4CD4A8.jpeg
 

Ossaboy2867

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Messages
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Wellsville NY
Wouldn’t you know, some of the parts were on back order. I did some research and found alot of the parts in this final drive are used in other motorcycles. The needle bearing on the pinion shaft for instance is used in a Kawasaki vulcan. So if its back ordered, take the time to cross check your parts.

With that said, during that time cross checking, my parts order from bike bandit was fulfilled. I almost canceled the order but waiting paid off.

I will start the assembly and document as soon as the parts arrive and I have a weekend free from work!
 

Ossaboy2867

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Jan 24, 2017
Messages
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Location
Wellsville NY
Ok, I had some time this weekend to put all the parts together and finally complete this project.

I will start out by discussing the shims used in the case to set the proper gear lash. Each case has its own specific number etched in the case to help identify what shims should be used. Because numbers dont lie, unless you are replacing the gear set, you do not have to worry about calculating shim stack or plastigauge any clearance. Here is my reasoning:
If you measure all the old bearings that come out of the case and measure the new and they are close to being the same, you can simply install the new parts without worry. Yamaha has made this a very simple design and I love how they engineered it.
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Ossaboy2867

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Wellsville NY
Now for installing the bearings. I first started with the large ring gear bearing. You want to chill the ring gear, then slowly heat the bearing using a heat gun to where it is slightly uncomfortable to handle while wearing nitrile gloves. Any hotter you will damage the bearings.
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Ossaboy2867

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From here we are close to being able to install the ring gear assembly into the removable side of the case. First you need to stone the shims smooth to remove any burrs so the seat correctly in the cover. You should start to chill the ring gear assembly as well.
82D47CCE-771F-42CB-836F-D6E798B96657.jpegThen place the shims into the cover. Be sure to pack seal lip with grease and begin to warm evenly with heat gun.
48BD9B30-A648-437F-BBB0-49310802CCF4.jpegInstall chilled ring gear assembly into cover.
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Ossaboy2867

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Wellsville NY
Time to install bearings into the main case. Prior to doing these steps I had already installed the hardened sleeve and idle side ring gear seal into the case.
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To install the ring gear support bearing, you could use sockets and all thread to press the bearing in. Im using my welding table and strap clamp parts from my mill. The idea is to have the bearing aligned perfect before starting to apply force.
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I always grease the surface of the housing before pressing. Some light heat on the case will help aide in seating the bearing to full depth
 
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Ossaboy2867

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Location
Wellsville NY
Next is the pinion gear support bearing. I always save the old bearings so you can use them to install the new. In this case, you use the parts and the machined surfaces of the case to aide with proper alignment. Again, light grease for pressing and low heat applied.
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In this photo you can see I am using the pinion gear to install the bearing. I installed the old bearing on the gear and if you warm the main case the entire unit will slide in and out no problem. Keeping the case warm for support bearing installation is a must.
E3D3E3BF-AE38-47A3-8B17-7C34D5165DC6.jpegUse dead blow to seat lower bearing. Keep case warm for free movement.
6F9DFD6D-7711-4309-8FCA-F825F5A4396E.jpeg167084B8-9283-4B58-A5EF-57F212BFB90D.jpegEventually you will bottom out and you will have to install the old bearing on the end in order to seat the bearing completely.
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Once completly bottomed, install retainer pin and keeper. Locktight bolt threads
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Ossaboy2867

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Joined
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Messages
103
Location
Wellsville NY
Next remove the old bearing on the pinion gear, install the stoned off shim and new bearing.
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Prepare pinion bearing retainer with light grease. Re apply light film of grease in case and warm slightly. Drop in assembly and keep case warm.
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Use custom made socket to seat bearing. Torque to specified amount and allow unit to cool.
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Once cool, remove bearing retainer and install seal and o ring. Apply grease to o ring and pack seal lip.
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Torque retainer to specified value.
 
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