Electical Stuff? My turn....

[Twisties]

So far I just have everything wired straight off the battery with individually fused wiring:

Warm and Safe power lead
Starcom1 Integrator
Trickle charger lead

This works fine for my purposes as none of these has any significant draw when not in use. But it's getting to be a lot of stuff on the battery posts, physically. I don't want to add more there.

I was going to add the oem heated grips but after 9 days waiting they finally decided to tell me they are back ordered for another month. Now it's time to think about some aftermarket heated grips.

How are folk wiring these in? Can I use the existing plug for the oem heated grips somehow? Should I get a fuse block of some sort? Is there another switched wire that will work for a splice point? Never have had a fuse block, but maybe it's starting to sound like a good idea. Give me your suggestions for approach and a link to any install threads here that show your solution (if there is one).

Thanks!

Jan

 

[JJ Moto Addict]

Would this work?

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Electric.html

 

[Twisties]

Would this work?

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Electric.html

I don't think so, not enough watts for heated grips... 40-50 watts looks like. Edit: oops 30 amps for the block... not 30 watts, misread it. ::010:: Yes it would work!

How does the relay work? You need to wire/splice into a switched wire?

Looks like the Oxford heated grips are intended to wire straight off the battery.... maybe I'll go with those.

 

[Checkswrecks]

You can make a fused power distribution point cheaply under the right panels, like this:
(Look for the yellow insulated eyelets in the upper right of the photo.)

The terminal strip can be bought at pretty much any Radio Shack or car parts store. I have it set up the following way:

The battery ground terminal is connected to the lowest connections on the strip with 10 ga wire. (Yes, it could be thinner but I had 10 ga and will never have to worry about wire capability.)

A 20A fuse comes off the hot terminal of the battery and connects with 10 gauge wire to the 2nd set of terminals. The inline fuse plug is rated for 30A and uses the same style of fuse the bike runs. (Don't remember the lettering code.)

A 30A relay attached to the lower mounting screw provides switched power to the top two sets of terminals. The switching logic is fromt he unused grip heater plug, but there are a number of other potential signal sources. The top two sets of terminals are what my accessories can be powered by, so I'm good for a half dozen items to hang off. Each of which will get their own inline fuse of appropriate rating.

btw, the set of sleeved and spiral wrapped wires going up to the right go to an SAE plug for the compressor and trickle charger.

 

[switchback]

Jan you are welcome to check out my setup.

 

[freeflow]

How are folk wiring these in? Can I use the existing plug for the oem heated grips somehow? Should I get a fuse block of some sort? Is there another switched wire that will work for a splice point? Never have had a fuse block, but maybe it's starting to sound like a good idea. Give me your suggestions for approach and a link to any install threads here that show your solution (if there is one).

Thanks!

Jan

very easy and clean to use the stock factory plug pigtails.

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Super_Tenere/super_tenere.html

""This stock connector comes with the mating male with plugs. All you need to order is male terminals and seals to use this connector""

male terminals....a 10 pack for about $1.5 and the rest is up to you...

there is a thread here about it...

 

[Tremor38]

You can make a fused power distribution point cheaply under the right panels, like this:
(Look for the yellow insulated eyelets in the upper right of the photo.)

The terminal strip can be bought at pretty much any Radio Shack or car parts store. I have it set up the following way:

The battery ground terminal is connected to the lowest connections on the strip with 10 ga wire. (Yes, it could be thinner but I had 10 ga and will never have to worry about wire capability.)

A 20A fuse comes off the hot terminal of the battery and connects with 10 gauge wire to the 2nd set of terminals. The inline fuse plug is rated for 30A and uses the same style of fuse the bike runs. (Don't remember the lettering code.)

A 30A relay attached to the lower mounting screw provides switched power to the top two sets of terminals. The switching logic is fromt he unused grip heater plug, but there are a number of other potential signal sources. The top two sets of terminals are what my accessories can be powered by, so I'm good for a half dozen items to hang off. Each of which will get their own inline fuse of appropriate rating.

btw, the set of sleeved and spiral wrapped wires going up to the right go to an SAE plug for the compressor and trickle charger.

You did a nice job there and I'm sure the price point is lower than most options. I'm sure that appeals to some of us. I guess it becomes a balancing act between price point and function. There are a great many people who don't want to deal with a Radio Shack project, not to mention a separate inline fuse for each item they add. I suppose if you don't mind finding a nice neat way to to mount up to six inline fuses and have no problem fishing aound for them if they need checked or replaced it's no a big deal. Sometimes having all of the fuses contained in one place is worth the price difference though. Also, some of the fuse panels have terminals that accept just the stripped end of the wire rather than depending upon crimped-on terminals that sometimes work their way loose. It's all a game of tradeoffs I suppose.