ABS SWITCH MOD
Hola a todos,
I have done some research and asked around to make my MOD ABS switch.
I have not seen a report yet that this MOD causes problems with the motorcycle, as it is not really designed by me. However you must decide for this MOD under your own risk. I am just a mechanic and electrician aficionado, I am not a professional, and this MOD is an intervention of the braking and ABS system. The bike obviously will perform different and the linked braking system will be also discontented together with the ABS when you use this MOD.
So be careful, and if you don't know what you’re doing then do not do this MOD.
This MOD is totally removable, I mean, it’s does not alterate the OEM wiring of the bike. The idea is to install a by-pass on the ABS main fuse, with a fused line and a switch that, when turned OFF, will perform as if the fuse has burned. Once it's decided to resume the working of the ABS, first stop the motorcycle, just put the MOD ABS switch back to ON, and turn the motorcycle's main switch OFF and ON, to reset the system and have the ABS engaged again.
For materials you should have an in-line waterproof fuse box, a 30 amp fuse, a switch that is good enough for 30 amps, and better if it is waterproof also, and about 3 meters of AWG 14, better two pieces of 1.5 meters each in different colors. All the elements should be good enough for 30 amps. I am not sure how many amps the ABS will use, but the Japanese had installed in the machine a 30 amps fuse protection for the ABS motor, so the system should be able to handle that current.
The fuse that will be by-passed is the ABS motor main fuse. It is located on the right side on the electrical tray, on the main relay for the engine. There are 2 fuses, the lower one is the working fuse, and the upper one is a spare. Here's the pic:
So you have the new, ABS switch in-line fuse box with two wires or tails. One tail will go the main fuse slot; the other tail will go to the switch and back to the second main fuse slot. Just for mental organization and ease to check, it is ideal to have each tail in different colors; in my case one is red and one is black. The red has the in-line fuse.
You can use a switch that can handle 30 amps. Those of you in Europe or USA may be able to easily find a water proof, motorcycle or marine type switch, but you can make one normal switch water proof by using thermal tape on its activator:
The two tails I mentioned must have spades or flat connectors of the size of the legs of a fuse. You cover them with thermal tape far enough to allow the spades to enter the slot of the two legs of the main fuse slots.
This is the look of the whole thing; in between it’s about some 1 meter of wire.
This pic shows how the two spades stick on the former slots of the ABS main fuse:
The switch can be installed where is does not interfere with the swinging of the handlebar and it´s protected from the water, and more important, a place where it won't be activated accidentally. I put mine under the right hand controls on the handle bar:
One can place the in-line fuse box inside a small space above the main relay of the engine:
Remember, the linked braking system will be disabled as well.
A final word: the ABS in this bike is awesome, and the linked braking system makes it easy to control and not to tip the bike over if braking off road with front wheels on moderate terrain. The linked system was designed to be able to brake with more control on dirt, mud and ruble while standing and using only the front brakes, as the system compensates by activating the rear brake. The result of all of this is a fine handling of the bike on dirt, and for many average riders then perhaps this ABS switch would not be necessary. However, for a medium to hard off road, or scramble, it is better to get rid of the ABS. For me, off road is not about speed, it´s about technic, and without ABS it’s just easy to handle the rear of the bike on those “beat my golden ass” passes and roads.
I hope this helps some of you.
Juan Valderrama
XT1200Z
Broadcasting from Bogotá - Colombia.