2014 Es fork oil change

[peelxtz1200]

Hi All I was just wondering if anybody has changed the front fork oil on there 2014- 2016 Es models with the electric suspension any info appreciated.

 

[RED CAT]

Me too! Probably different measurements as one fork is compression and the other rebound, I believe.

 

[WJBertrand]

Me three!


-Jeff

 

[greg the pole]

I don't own an ES, but looking at the parts page, it looks no different than the non ES

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/yam/53306f1ff870024560f03df7/front-fork

Best bet would be to get the official yam manual for the 2014 and up, it will spell it out step by step how to change it.

 

[hawk281]

I have the manual and it is more difficult than a dirt bike fork.

 

[greg the pole]

I have the manual and it is more difficult than a dirt bike fork.

can you elaborate?

The open chamber forks on the tenere are dead easy compared to my KTM twin chamber forks. The inner bladder is a royal PITA and requires several fork specific tools.

The non ES tenere requires a spring preload tool which is $20 odd.

Is there not just a motor driving the preload of the spring?

 

[WJBertrand]

Is there not just a motor driving the preload of the spring?

Not sure but I think only damping is adjusted by the ES fork motors and preload is fixed?

 

[hawk281]

in order to completely drain the forks, you have to remove the forks, use a spring tool to move the fork down far enough to access the damper rod locknut, then pump the fork upside down to drain it. My KTM , I just pull the fork cap off and drain, which also drains the damper rod assembly. There is comments on the forum discussing the amount of oil used if just drain it without dissembling the damping system, however that will leave dirty oil on the interior of the fork. Removing the dampening rod reminds me of 1970 and 80 forks which required a special tool to hold the rod from spinning when taking out the Allen bolt. ::021::

 

[greg the pole]

in order to completely drain the forks, you have to remove the forks, use a spring tool to move the fork down far enough to access the damper rod locknut, then pump the fork upside down to drain it. My KTM , I just pull the fork cap off and drain, which also drains the damper rod assembly. There is comments on the forum discussing the amount of oil used if just drain it without dissembling the damping system, however that will leave dirty oil on the interior of the fork. Removing the dampening rod reminds me of 1970 and 80 forks which required a special tool to hold the rod from spinning when taking out the Allen bolt. ::021::

meh...the tool is $20. Open cartridges are easy. On dirt bikes the fork are getting out of control. I have not had the pleasure (can't find the sarcasm font ) to work on the 4cs (four chamber fork) from White power. That is a proper pain in the ass...the twin chamber is bad enough. But once set up properly, it's a joy off road.

Volume is per book at 150mm or something along those lines. Want a plusher ride, put in less oil, want a stiffer ride, add more.
I've done several write ups about the fork rebuild procedure on the tenere
https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2014/10/18/fork-rebuild-v3-0-including-fork-seal-and-bushing/