2012 to 2014 Clutch Basket Upgrade Question

[mikeshoop]

Greetings from Pegram, Tennessee!
I am about to do the clutch basket upgrade on my 2012 Super T with 12K miles. I have studied the videos and bought the tool, etc. etc. I think I am ready to go with it, but I have one question.

Given only 12K miles, ridden very conservatively, I'm thinking I'm good to just transfer everything from the old basket to the new basket, vs. replacing the discs, etc.

My question then: As it works now, and aside from the well known vibration issue, when I apply the clutch fully I can still feel it slightly pulling, like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Is this normal? And if not, how do you adjust it so that when the clutch is engaged it is fully engaged, not pulling at all?

Also, I've heard that fresh oil makes the clutch work better. Is this issue possibly due to the oil? There's only about 1500 miles on the current oil.

And, btw, lastly, I also bought the high permance pressure plate (in response to posts I'd read recommending it) and then I heard that it was unnecessary and that it would only give me a "harder pull" on the clutch lever. So I'm just wanting any additional input regarding the need or not for the high performance pressure plate. My riding style is fairly conservative, never near the tach red line, maybe 30-40% off-road/back roads, much closer to touring style than to racing style.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[cyclemike4]

Hello Mikeshop. I have a 2012 and it had a lot more miles than yours when I changed the clutch basket. I just swapped all the plates over and went with it. they were not hurt. I have about 100,000 miles on the clutch and it still feels fine. As far as the clutch dragging I would guess the hydraulic fluid in the clutch may need to be flushed out. If it has not been done that would be very old and likely the issue. I have no idea on the high performance pressure plates and springs. I never really needed them. Good luck with the swap. It is pretty easy if you take your time. It was well worth the money and time as well.

 

[Mr. BR]

Mike,
If your clutch is dragging a bit, you probably just need to change the fluid… ie, a full bleed.
Also, depending on your hand size/preference, having your clutch lever set at the # 1 position (furthest from grip) will give you the most movement down at the clutch.
Can’t comment on the need for a hi-perf pressure plate but for normal riding, probably not needed IMO.
Btw, I did the GEN2 basket upgrade on my ’12 a few months ago… the swap is easy with the most difficult part is tightening the center hub nut.
You should see a subtle but noticeable reduction in the vibes/noise around 3K revs… my GEN1 basket springs were very loose (82K miles at the time).
Regards,
Mr. BR

 

[Boris]

This guide may be of help when you do the change,

http://www.vibefreev.com/downloads/Removing%20and%20Replacing%20the%20Yamaha%20XT1200%20Clutch%20Basket.pdf

 

[Boris]

Agree with the above. Just use the old plates and discs. Give the fluid a change.

Don’t forget, no need to drain the engine oil for this job.

 

[mikeshoop]

Mike,
If your clutch is dragging a bit, you probably just need to change the fluid… ie, a full bleed.
Also, depending on your hand size/preference, having your clutch lever set at the # 1 position (furthest from grip) will give you the most movement down at the clutch.
Can’t comment on the need for a hi-perf pressure plate but for normal riding, probably not needed IMO.
Btw, I did the GEN2 basket upgrade on my ’12 a few months ago… the swap is easy with the most difficult part is tightening the center hub nut.
You should see a subtle but noticeable reduction in the vibes/noise around 3K revs… my GEN1 basket springs were very loose (82K miles at the time).
Regards,
Mr. BR

Thanks! Great to hear form a another 2012 owner. Mine's only got 12K but the front r/h fork seal had a leak so I put it in the shop at a local Yamaha dealer to have the front seals replaced and also add stiffer springs as I'm about 260 lbx. Since it was going in anyway I asked and they agreed to install the clutch basket that I had already purchased. I'm just hoping they don't use this as a " fishing trip" to sell me other additional parts. My clutch is not slipping and I don't believe it is at all worn out at only 12K miles but I am anticipating them trying to sell me all new clutch discs, etc. We'll see. I agree with you about the High Performance pressure plate - so I didn't ask them to install that even though I have it on hand, unopened, it'll keep on the shelf.

On a different matter, and I may make this a separate pose - I have purchased Arrow exhaust headers which will basically delete the catalytic converter and I will use, for now at least, the stock muffler. So my question about this is what will the effect be on the tuning? In other words, if I delete the cat, will it still run ok until I can get the ECM flashed? Or will eliminating the catalytic converter render it useless until the tuning is adjusted accordingly??

Thanks again for your input, it is much appreciated.

 

[mikeshoop]

Agree with the above. Just use the old plates and discs. Give the fluid a change.

Don’t forget, no need to drain the engine oil for this job.

Thanks for the tip! I think you're probably right about replacing the clutch oil, can't be all that hard. Do you happen to know how much that deleting the catalytic converter will affect the tuning of the bike? I do expect to get the ECM flashed later, so I guess I'm asking if the cat delete will negatively affect the bikes operation in the meantime? thanks again for the advice!

 

[mikeshoop]

Hello Mikeshop. I have a 2012 and it had a lot more miles than yours when I changed the clutch basket. I just swapped all the plates over and went with it. they were not hurt. I have about 100,000 miles on the clutch and it still feels fine. As far as the clutch dragging I would guess the hydraulic fluid in the clutch may need to be flushed out. If it has not been done that would be very old and likely the issue. I have no idea on the high performance pressure plates and springs. I never really needed them. Good luck with the swap. It is pretty easy if you take your time. It was well worth the money and time as well.

Thanks! I agree about the pressure plate, for now I'm just going to leave it on the shelf. I had to take the bike in to the local Yamaha dealer for front seals and springs so I'm having them replace the clutch backet. Now I have that special tool and no use for it! lol, Also replacing the clutch fluid. thanks for your advice!

This guide may be of help when you do the change,

http://www.vibefreev.com/downloads/Removing%20and%20Replacing%20the%20Yamaha%20XT1200%20Clutch%20Basket.pdf

This guide may be of help when you do the change,

http://www.vibefreev.com/downloads/Removing%20and%20Replacing%20the%20Yamaha%20XT1200%20Clutch%20Basket.pdf

This guide may be of help when you do the change,

http://www.vibefreev.com/downloads/Removing%20and%20Replacing%20the%20Yamaha%20XT1200%20Clutch%20Basket.pdf

Thanks Boris, I've downloaded the doc. Much appreciated.

 

[Boris]

Thanks for the tip! I think you're probably right about replacing the clutch oil, can't be all that hard. Do you happen to know how much that deleting the catalytic converter will affect the tuning of the bike? I do expect to get the ECM flashed later, so I guess I'm asking if the cat delete will negatively affect the bikes operation in the meantime? thanks again for the advice!

Sorry, can’t help with the exhaust enquiry, still running the standard set up.