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After doing the same thing on my bike with 26k miles on it and seeing how everything functions. There is zero need to do this other than MAYBE the little ball further on in life. The slave cylinder is self adjusting and takes up any slack produced by those wear points. Clutch master on the...

Use a long zip tie as a dipstick for your measuring tool. Dip it down into the fork all the way till the head of the zip tie rests on the fork, then pull out and measure with a ruler your fluid level. No need for fancy tools.

Sounds like you are wanting to trigger a relay from multiple sources (ie high beam switch and a separate anytime switch) and want to isolate those sources so back feed doesn't occur. Just look up the draw of the triggering circuit via specs of the relay it will be listed. I'd imagine damn...

I did exactly this but with rubber washers. Just the top right now but probably going to add them in on the bottom as I recently installed risers so extra leverage gives more movement. That stated its WAAAAY better with just the top rubber washers than stock.

Probably a minimum of 1 hr of shop time @ 120+$ 10$ with some all thread, washers and sockets from your tool box and you can press em out and press em back in yourself if you really feel the need to replace the bushings. Or ~ 4$ in some metal fender washers to totally eliminate the bushing...

Yup bought my 2015 ES a year ago and noticed the bar flex due to the rubber vibration isolators especially when riding aggressively in the twisties. Didnt like HOW much they flexed but also liked the vibration isolation they provided. I ended up putting a thick rubber washer between the bar...

I know its a little bit late. But a 6.99 copper washer set from Harbor Freight will have something plenty close to use for the coolant drain.... as well as oil drain plugs, and rear gear drain/fill plugs multiple times over...

That would be amazing. They can charge the shop time to Yamaha without doing the work and I don't have some rando messing with my bike. I'll pop in to mine and discuss with them at some point over the next few months.

Yeah, I realized when i looked at the switch itself that the leads go into the switch itself. sigh... the last thing i want is a dealer having to dig down in the bike.

I assume the rod just slides out with the clutch cover off as one more step beyond the replacement of #24-26 just lean her over on the side stand id imagine.

Going to bump this thread as I sometimes have cruise control not want to set on my 2015 ES that has not has this recall done. Is it JUST the switch on the bottom of the master cylinder, or is it a wiring harness as well?

Have you ever replaced the main clutch rod (the other side of the ball?) or does that not wear as bad as part #25

Oh sweet. I guess ill grab those parts at some point for replacement. Always felt like there was lots of "take up" before the clutch lever actually does work and wear where you describe would make as to that extra takeup (25k on the bike).

Whats the process like getting to those parts mentioned (24-26 in that schematic)?

Do you have any accessories? Mine has been cranking my tenere for a year WAAAAAAAY better than any other battery did.

To get claimed performance from said vehicles they would need to run premium. Also warranty reasons.

Every car built in the last 2 probably getting close to 3 decades have knock sensors and will pull timing. The super tenere does not. That stated, 87 is fine, just fill up with 91 the next chance you get.

Most definitely MPG things. Toyota and most manufactures are doing it to eek out mpg ratings with low hanging fruit. Im sure the manual for the prius gives a few different weight ratings that are acceptable.

Thats the key right there. As long as its non energy conserving you are likely perfectly fine in the tenere motor driven under normal conditions. My tenere is a replacement for a weekend warrior canyon blasting machine, that can also do long distances comfy... it sees WOT and limiter nearly...

And this is why you use Rotella T4 15w-40, T6 5w-40 or T6 15w-40 as those are all JASO MA certified for use in motorcycles.... And to go one step further, use either of the 15w-40 as they have way better shear strength. (T4 has been thoroughly tested for this vs the T6 5w-40.... jury is still...