Recent content by Grape_salad

Ok, just to follow up on this in case anyone else finds this useful at some point: The engine alignment tool was not required. The alignment bolt is a hollow threaded sleeve that goes over the rear upper mounting bolt on the right hand side. It essentially shims the space between the frame and...

Oil light comes on after about 1000-1400kms, and needs maybe 400ml to bring the oil back to the line. So I’m having to top off the oil 3-6 times between services, depending on how much riding i’ve been doing. I suspect it has been getting gradually worse over time too, though i’ve only had the...

Thanks. It’s a 2013 engine i’m pulling to go into my 2010. Would have been nice to have a gen2 donor engine, but this one came up and the owner says it is rock solid with 80k kms on it. Even if it does turn out to develop oil burning problems (seems unlikely if it hasn’t by now) at least I can...

What does the pivot shaft wrench actually adjust? I've seen some posts in R6 and R1 forums that show it like this: Is this like an adjustable sleeve that goes around the engine bolt, to space the engine from the frame? So without it there is just less wiggle room for dropping the engine down...

Did you ever figure this out? I'm also about to do an engine removal

Anyone able to measure the sump plug threads when they next do an oil change and add them here?

The top box especially is very heavy on its own. I haven't weighed them, but the 42l top box is significantly heavier than 37l or 48l pannier boxes. Now for the panniers I don't mind that, because I've dropped the bike on them many times and lighter weight plastic panniers would have been...

When it comes to this situation, it was definitely the rack and not the rubber bumpers. The Alt-Rider rack has a certain flex and springiness to it that was causing the case to bounce around. I suspect that it is to do with the materials and heat treat used by Alt-rider. Absolute guesses here...

I don't have a good picture handy, but they're a fairly standard set that is very sturdy. Alt-rider I think? The bike has been down plenty of times on its side on flat surfaces and the bars worked fine and didn't flex or move, so it's not the crash bars pushing into the radiator.

Slight further mod - the right hand side support blocked access to the givi toolbox mounted inside the pannier frame, so I changed that side to run off the pannier mount. The angle is much tighter, but it still seems to make the rack sufficiently rigid. It is a bit cleaner looking, and...

On a recent ride I dropped the bike on the left side onto uneven ground, and through the crash bars, the plastics pushed the radiator fan into the radiator, causing a puncture. The pressure applied seems to have been very minimal - it was on uneven, hard rocky ground (baked clay with rocks...

I finally got around to fixing this - I used some 20x20x1.5mm aluminium angle to create braces from the back of the rack to the pannier frames. For where it attaches i just cut away the angle to make a tab, and bent that to fit. The rack is now rock solid, where before there was significant flex...

Thanks, that was an incredibly useful video. I'm not seeing any leaks around the axle though, so I don't think it's the output side seal on the pumpkin. I'm leaning more towards what @holligl said about the seals on the drive shaft: @Cycledude - I don't think I overfilled it, but can't rule...

I've noticed that I've got a bit of an oil leak around the final drive. It's not too bad - no oil dripping on the floor under it, but it is seeping out. I've noticed there's a hole on the underside which seems to be the source of a lot of it - anyone have any clues as to what is causing this...

do you have a picture of the high mount position? The rack was on the that came with the bike when i bought it, so i didn't realise there was another configuration.