Tenman
Well-Known Member
I’ve had mine for years. 30k miles. No problems. Micro-indexing. Lol
Your levers have very few adjustments. There is no other lever on the market that compares to the ASV for adjustment, fit or feel. A simple quick spin the knob to bring the lever in for slow speed, off the bar clutch work . Or a few clicks to get the levers out for stand up riding. Very easy to adjust while riding. I had the Pazzo levers on my Ninja and they are nowhere near as good as these.I’ve had mine for years. 30k miles. No problems. Micro-indexing. Lol
Yah it absolutely matters to have the levers where you want them. I wanted ASV but refused to pay $250 for two levers which is why I ended up getting Vortex. Still great quality but half the price I do wish I had more finite adjustment but the price wasn't worth it to me, luckily the vortex works great.Your levers have very few adjustments. There is no other lever on the market that compares to the ASV for adjustment, fit or feel. A simple quick spin the knob to bring the lever in for slow speed, off the bar clutch work . Or a few clicks to get the levers out for stand up riding. Very easy to adjust while riding. I had the Pazzo levers on my Ninja and they are nowhere near as good as these.
With the ASV levers you have no freeplay. Instant engagement. If you want more powerful braking I suggest getting a Brembo 19RCS master cylinder/lever/brake reservoir mounting kit. It has a 18-20 ratio click system for a very precise feel at the lever. If you decide to go with this MC make darn sure you know what you want. The brakes will be super touchy. It's not a really good MC for everyday riding.Yah it absolutely matters to have the levers where you want them. I wanted ASV but refused to pay $250 for two levers which is why I ended up getting Vortex. Still great quality but half the price I do wish I had more finite adjustment but the price wasn't worth it to me, luckily the vortex works great.
My gripe with the levers on this bike is not the levers but the amount of free play of the controls before they do anything. Even with a fresh bleed, rebuilding the master cylinders, and new pads, both brake and clutch have an insane amount of deadzone. Hell I'd be willing to buy aftermarket master cylinders if someone had a good suggestion.
I can't imagine it's the vortex levers the OEM levers had the same issue. I'll try that bleeding technique but I doubt I did it poorly, I took great care when I rebuilt the master cylinders, even cycled the ABS unit per the write-up elsewhere on here several times. I didn't let the calipers hang like that but I did do the ole tap the fittings technique and leave both clutch and brake master cylinders open overnight to let air bubbles rise. I don't have sponginess through the braking force there is smooth/consistent resistance and linearity to the pull for both. What I'm getting is about a half inch of nothing at the start of the lever travel.With the ASV levers you have no freeplay. Instant engagement.
FWIW, even with stock levers there should be almost zero freeplay at the levers. If you have free play then there is air in the lines. Best way to get it out is by removing levers and calipers. It's a pain on this bike because of the crossover line between calipers and the ABS block. Put left caliper down with crossover line up to right caliper. Lightly pump brake and open right caliper bleeder to get air bubbles out. Once that is done, reinstall and remove brake lever and let it hang overnight tapping the lines a few times. In the morning your brake will be rock solid. I have yet to get a bike from the factory with properly bled lines. All of them come from the factory with spongy (to me) brakes.
Wow that is strange. I don't know how to help you there. I wonder if the MC is simply worn out?I don't have sponginess through the braking force there is smooth/consistent resistance and linearity to the pull for both. What I'm getting is about a half inch of nothing at the start of the lever travel.
Yah that's what I thought lol and is why I did a rebuild of the MC, maybe the body of the MC is worn out, just seems weird.Wow that is strange. I don't know how to help you there. I wonder if the MC is simply worn out?
I use the standard length for clutch and short lever for brake.I tried a pair of shorty levers and went back to the EOM after a couple of rides. The short ones requires more pull because the decrease leverage, which makes the clutch feel heavier. I had a great shorty lever on my old KTM 990 that was specially designed to increase the pull and make the clutch lighter. Couldn't find something similar for the S10.
I use the standard length for clutch and short lever for brake.
Midwest Mountain Engineering makes a light pull clutch lever. Not sure if they have one that fits the Super Tenere MC. I've tried them on a Beta and they are pretty slick. Unfortunately the clutch engagement is not as adjustable.
https://midwestme.com/
I’ve got the same and they are absolutely crap!! Removed them same day, the clutch doesn’t even work. Worst buy ever, they look great but that’s it.Bought these on ebay and they are basically a death trap...
View attachment 71040
Made in china and a pretty piss poor attempt. Says for 10-18 Super Tenere 1200, but they are junk. as you can see from the pic Max adjustment distance setting is set #6 and I can pull the brake lever to the grip. This means that you DON'T have full braking pressure with these levers. Set it to #1-5 and the lever is closer to the bar so even less braking pressure.... basically a death trap if you need to brake hard!
Gone back to stock levers.
and mine 4 yrs brilliant
View attachment 71043
Brake Clutch Levers For YAMAHA SUPERTENERE/XT1200Z Adjustable Folding Extending | eBay
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wow,That is the same seller I bought from... delivery from china was 8 days... super quick. quality of the lever is good.
I know how to fix the issue and that is make new push rods... yeah nah!