Eastern Beaver PC-8 Install Pics

[May 18 2015 update: How to kill an EB PC-8 Relay: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=15625.0]

I mounted my recently acquired PC-8 from Eastern Beaver up yesterday. I took a bunch of pics - hope this helps someone.

I chose to go in the compartment where the relays are on the right side of the bike. To get to it remove both right side fairings - the one that covers the battery (4 hex bolts) and the one above it - 4 or 5 screws and two little black fast button thingies on the fork side of the cowling.

After that you need to remove the fin in the middle of the empty space. I clipped mine in a bunch of spots and then snapped the pieces right off - they came off nice and clean but I then ground it with a dremel. You don't need the dremel work but I was in the mood. You can see my not so handy dremel marks below. I ended up going back and cutting that bottom fin most of the way back so I could get wires through without weird bends in the future.



I added velcro strips to help hold it completely down and in place while I put the screws in.


In place with the cover on.


In place, cover off. The screws are aimed upward a touch to avoid the protective aluminum cover that goes over the reg/rectifier. I used the EB supplied screws.


Reg rectifier cover viewed from the front. The screws miss it completely (cant see it here).


Aux light harness connection. Aux light and heated grip leads. Remove the protective cap on the aux light lead. and the PC8 harness snaps right in. A small flat blade screwdriver helps.


Finding the switched light and grip harness - just right (front) of the battery in a little space.


Ground the sharp edge out-of-the-way by the negative terminal


Stuffed the relay and main fuse in the little space. Still have the tender lead directly to the battery.


Different view.


Lead to the PC8


Tucked the harness connection back in- you can't even tell it is there.


Mounted and wired.


Done, with KTM grip lead coming in from above. More to follow ...

Great minds think alike. I did it exactly the same as you - step by step

Nice install! ::012:: I didn't think of cutting out the rib so made a simple bracket in a shallow U shape to go over it like this:


The bracket is attached using the nuts on the regulator bolts and is made of thin aluminum. I attached the fuse block to it like this:


Still plenty of room to put the cover on over it.

Nicely done jaeger22 - I don't have the tools/skills for the metal work. I like this location though - lots of room for excess wires and realys just above the toolkit.

Did mine exactly like the OP. It's almost like Yamaha planned it for us.

In fact, I'm surprised none of the manufacturers have caught on that an accessory fuse block from the factory would be an awesome feature.

ac

FWIW, I think I saw at least one pic around here of someone else's install done this way, can't remember whose. I just took a bunch of shots b/c I know if you aren't comfortable with this stuff it can be intimidating to hack into things. This was a simple install - took an hour from start to finish (I already had the grips working but was waiting on the fuse block). The most nerve wracking part for a beginner would be cutting the plastic fin. I just used a wire cutter, snipped about every 3/4" along the fin and then snapped it off with a pair of pliers. The plastic snapped right off pretty clean. The screws I wasn't sure about but after looking at it I could tell there was space above the metal guard. The dremel work was, like I said, really unnecessary - especially using the velcro since it kind of lifts the block up away a touch you don't really need to do it so don't let that stop you.

This is a simple install. If you can operate a pair of scissors you should not have a problem.

Yet another great thread on this forum. A buddy and I are planning on mounting an Eastern Beaver tomorrow and this thread will come in handy. I have PIAA lights and heated grips to wire up after all. The irony of wiring up heated grips in Las Vegas in the summer when the temperature is above 100 degrees has not escaped me however.

Did mine yesterday mostly following this route but with a couple of variations. I used tiedowns. below to hold the pc8.

Gonna do the same as tpak except I will use 3M Dual Lock instead of Velcro and no screws to fasten the PC8 to the plastic.

tomatocity said:

Gonna do the same as tpak except I will use 3M Dual Lock instead of Velcro and no screws to fasten the PC8 to the plastic.

Click to expand...

If I had Dual Lock/SuperDuty Velcro handy this is what I would do in retrospect. Much less risk of sending the screws into the RR.

Here is what I did .



I also did not want to alter the fin or drill holes in to the bike , easy to remove as if it were never there !

Very Neat

ridefire said:

Here is what I did .



I also did not want to alter the fin or drill holes in to the bike , easy to remove as if it were never there !

Click to expand...

Very nice. You could sell that adapter. Definitely makes the installation simpler.

Looks great. I like the plate onto which the PC8 will be mounted. Clever. I did not have the tools to go that way.

Hey t-pak, thanks a bunch for your posting. My friend and I installed my pc-8 today. Thanks to you everything went very well.

mashy said:

Hey t-pak, thanks a bunch for your posting. My friend and I installed my pc-8 today. Thanks to you everything went very well.

Click to expand...

::018::

I did the install of the PC8 as posted for a friend. Even though I fitted the upper fairing during the install to check clearances, it never dawned on me that to change a fuse it would be necessary to remove both lower and upper fairing. Not a big job. 4 quick release Allen bolts for the lower and 3 additional Allen bolts for the upper. Not a huge job. Then I installed the wind deflectors. 3 more screws to remove. That put the decision to move the PC 8 easy. I taged all the wires and relocated the PC8 lower, next to the battery. Much better. One more power socket/USB port to install in the trunk, zip tie the wires near the panel and the job will be complete.

The PC8 powers the following:
Windshield bar mounted GPS
Windshield bar mounted power socket/ USB port
LED driving lights with Skene Design controller
Custom dynamics Led voltmeter
Gerbing's heated gear plug
Trunk power socket/ USB port (inside)
Battery tender

I utilized the factory plug for aftermarket heated grips.

Much appreciation for posting this how-to. I just bought a 2014 ST last month, and I cannibalized the PC8 from my old V-strom before I traded it in so I could use it on the new bike. Just got the new wiring harness from Eastern Beaver today, and I was in a bit of a dilemma on where to mount the thing until I found this post. I'm hoping that there haven't been any changes between the previous model years and the new year that would make this unworkable.

Again, many thanks!

I installed the PC-8 in this location but the side cowling interfered. The lower right fastener would not close. I even snapped-off the left side tab on the PC-8 so it would be flush to the battery. Did you leave the cover off the PC-8? That was what interfered with the cowling.

Lhamil said:

I did the install of the PC8 as posted for a friend. Even though I fitted the upper fairing during the install to check clearances, it never dawned on me that to change a fuse it would be necessary to remove both lower and upper fairing. Not a big job. 4 quick release Allen bolts for the lower and 3 additional Allen bolts for the upper. Not a huge job. Then I installed the wind deflectors. 3 more screws to remove. That put the decision to move the PC 8 easy. I taged all the wires and relocated the PC8 lower, next to the battery. Much better. One more power socket/USB port to install in the trunk, zip tie the wires near the panel and the job will be complete.

The PC8 powers the following:
Windshield bar mounted GPS
Windshield bar mounted power socket/ USB port
LED driving lights with Skene Design controller
Custom dynamics Led voltmeter
Gerbing's heated gear plug
Trunk power socket/ USB port (inside)
Battery tender

I utilized the factory plug for aftermarket heated grips.

Click to expand...

78YZ said:

I installed the PC-8 in this location but the side cowling interfered. The lower right fastener would not close. I even snapped-off the left side tab on the PC-8 so it would be flush to the battery. Did you leave the cover off the PC-8? That was what interfered with the cowling.

Click to expand...

I experienced the same interference on my 2014 ES. With the PC-8 mounted as pictured above, the lower forward area of the right side cover contacted the PC-8, preventing closure of the lower forward 1/4 turn fastener. As of today I have still not found a suitable mounting location on a 2014 ES model bike.