RCinNC
Well-Known Member
Thanks so much, Cantab!
Will anyone in the USA rebuild the ABS control module?
- Thread starter ThrottleItOut
- Start date
Cantab
Well-Known Member
Ah it was easy as Mike is a fellow Cantabrian who ive met and is a good bugger
i remember well this issue he had
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
Once you got me on the right track with Mike's post about the bypass tubes, I was able to follow up on the other connected threads and get more info about it. Now I can aggregate all that info and the photos for the "just in case" section of my service manual. Much appreciated.
Jdandy
Member
Yes, I am aware that the control board cannot be serviced. My unit works intermittently and after it sits overnight cycles flawlessly. When I crank up and ride a few miles the light pops on. My brake fluid was very dark when we flushed the system leading me to believe there could be debris or corrosion in the valves or valve body. Possibly dirt or corrosion on the connector. My plan is to pull the pump an separate the pump from the module and clean and flush the valve body and valves with CRC electronic cleaner.
Tenman
Well-Known Member
The day my ABS module dies. I'll be doing the bypass. ABS sure is nice though. Every time I ride my ZRX1200 without abs. I slide a tire a few times.
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If you think there is corrosion in the abs module…..what makes you think that the master cylinder is not corroded too? If moisture is going to enter the brake circuit, it will enter where it enters 95% of the time... through the reservoir cap. And the rust cannot be cleaned... you can remove it... but the metal will be damaged... The pics/link you posted are only of the electrical circuit (integrated circuit, motor, and solenoids)... the valves are "inside the abs body"How to Disassemble ABS Unit
www.full-repair.com
FYI.....
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Jdandy
Member
Yes, I understand and it is very possible that I am wasting my time. I am retired and have a surplus of that commodity. The valve body can be separated from the module by removing 4 torx head screws. The valves are basically solenoid switches activated by the ECM. I have researched as much as possible and have already received a quote for replacement from Partzilla @ $1640 tax title 'and delivery.
My S10 is pretty well farkled. The ACD skidplate and SW motech panniers alone would cost around 2500 to replace The value of the GEN1 S10 had fallen for a while and it appears to have stabilized and seems to be increasing.i only have 22K on my bike so it is worth repairing and moving on.
My S10 is pretty well farkled. The ACD skidplate and SW motech panniers alone would cost around 2500 to replace The value of the GEN1 S10 had fallen for a while and it appears to have stabilized and seems to be increasing.i only have 22K on my bike so it is worth repairing and moving on.
22K is so little...I doubt you'll find all that dirt and rust you're looking for...if the fault comes from the "brake pressure" side (fault 62)...you should look for that fault first. The abs is simple, if you don't use the brakes, nothing will happen…..if you start to brake (pressure and deceleration sensor) the system will go into alert….if due to that braking/deceleration pressure, one wheel turns less than the another, the abs will actuate the solenoids…..And for the UBS system, the same…if the front brake pressure sensor is activated…the abs module will press the rear brake (at a pressure according to the front pressure)….. So you have 2 pressure sensors. You should rule out which one is failing…..
Do a test, braking “only” with the rear brake….and see if the fault appears….and then the same but only with the front one (disabling the UBS, with a small touch on the rear lever)…..
What you are trying to do, is like when a surgeon decides to open you from the throat to the groin, to see what is wrong…..
Do a test, braking “only” with the rear brake….and see if the fault appears….and then the same but only with the front one (disabling the UBS, with a small touch on the rear lever)…..
What you are trying to do, is like when a surgeon decides to open you from the throat to the groin, to see what is wrong…..
Jdandy
Member
One step ahead...or several steps ahead of you here. Both wheels removed sensors and sensor rings cleaned. It is very odd that I can cycle the pump, 20 or 30 times with the bike on the centerstand., I take off down a dirt road near my home and cycle the ABS every 30 yards or so cycling back front and front back as you have suggested and all goes well for about 15 minutes and I get an ABS light. When I changed the brake fluid it was very dark possibly indicating contamination in the system. If the brake fluid had "varnished" 'there is possibly residue in the valve body this could possibly cause the intermittent operation. possible residue from corrosion moving within the solenoid field.22K is so little...I doubt you'll find all that dirt and rust you're looking for...if the fault comes from the "brake pressure" side (fault 62)...you should look for that fault first. The abs is simple, if you don't use the brakes, nothing will happen…..if you start to brake (pressure and deceleration sensor) the system will go into alert….if due to that braking/deceleration pressure, one wheel turns less than the another, the abs will actuate the solenoids…..And for the UBS system, the same…if the front brake pressure sensor is activated…the abs module will press the rear brake (at a pressure according to the front pressure)….. So you have 2 pressure sensors. You should rule out which one is failing…..
Do a test, braking “only” with the rear brake….and see if the fault appears….and then the same but only with the front one (disabling the UBS, with a small touch on the rear lever)…..
What you are trying to do, is like when a surgeon decides to open you from the throat to the groin, to see what is wrong…..
Sometimes "exploratory surgery" is the only remedy when all other reasoning fails.
Jdandy
Member
Well we are either going to succeed or fail on this issue. Many have suggested "bypassing" . That would be the most expedient and cost effective route. ABS is on this bike for a reason and it has served me well on one than one occasion. The S10 is a heavy bike and when loaded with camping gear even heavier. ABS allows for a controlled stop or avoidance accordingly.
scott123007
Well-Known Member
I am only saying this by reading your response to Jiq 1969, but he is saying how to ISOLATE which part of the module is not working. If you were to ONLY use the rear brake, over and over, without ever touching the front, and your light either comes on, or not, you would know which part of the pump has the problem. In order to test the front brake side of the pump, (and that would be just to confirm your previous findings, by only using the rear brake) you FIRST have to "lightly" apply your rear brake as you apply the front, in order for the ABS to "unlink" the rear with the front.
Adding to what Scott comments... when I was referring to the "sensors", I was not referring to the wheel sensors (rotation sensors)... I was referring to the "pressure" sensors, which are surely "inside" the module... ..and another question, when the abs light goes on, does the abs system continue to work?... or does it no longer fulfill the anti-lock function?
Jdandy
Member
System fails when ABS light comes on.
Probably going to buy the new unit.
Probably going to buy the new unit.
Well, I would still ask you if the abs light comes on when you are pressing any of the brakes... or it simply comes on without pressing the brakes... and another question... where you read that fault code 62 refers to the pressure of the circuit braking?
I think you have started from an erroneous premise, regarding what you were informed by, who made the diagnosis
I think you have started from an erroneous premise, regarding what you were informed by, who made the diagnosis
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WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Hmmmm, 62 does not seem to be related to the ABS system?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Jdandy
Member
Ever seen the inside of a 2012 ABS pump? I removed the ABS pump today ...what a bitch!! After removing the pump I separated the ECM from the valve body. There are 4 torx screws holding the two parts together. One of the torx screws was very loose the other 3 were just "snug". There was a small amount of debris and moisture in the corner where the screw was loose.
Why in the name of Torakatsu Yamaha did they not put a gasket between these two parts? This critical part of this bike is NOT sealed and it is a direct route into the ECM
Why in the name of Torakatsu Yamaha did they not put a gasket between these two parts? This critical part of this bike is NOT sealed and it is a direct route into the ECM
Attachments
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Jdandy
Member
Light comes on after bike warms up without applying brakes.
I have reviewed the manual and am aware of all the possibilities.
Jdandy
Member
OK, unit removed, pump body and valves cleaned. Coupler both male and female connections cleaned. Reinstalled module, flushed and bled the system. No joy!! ABS light on. I can put the bike on the centerstand and after it cools down, I can cycle pump numerous times without failure.
Now, moving on . A new pump tax, title, dealer prep and delivery $1,640 @ partzilla with my military discount. Two choices on ebay 899.00 for a 2012 model or1260.00 for a 2013 model. Partzilla advises backordered until March 23rd.
Question : has anyone out there tried installing a Genll pumpona Gen1 bike?
Now, moving on . A new pump tax, title, dealer prep and delivery $1,640 @ partzilla with my military discount. Two choices on ebay 899.00 for a 2012 model or1260.00 for a 2013 model. Partzilla advises backordered until March 23rd.
Question : has anyone out there tried installing a Genll pumpona Gen1 bike?
Under what fault code does the light come on?…..it could be a momentary power failure, a momentary loss of signal, the pressure sensors are no longer there, because you said that the light came on without applying the brakes….if you don't delete the fault codes, the light will remain on, just to remind you that you have a fault detected and stored in memory
If you put a new module, and the fault is elsewhere, but related to the module... you won't solve the problem...
If you put a new module, and the fault is elsewhere, but related to the module... you won't solve the problem...
Jdandy
Member
Is there any way to delete the fault codes short of a dealer?
Light is coming onundercode "62"