Who is running bar risors?

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#22
Are there any videos? I tried searching YouTube but could really find anything, more due to my lack of computer skill than anything. Were they hard to install?
Not sure about videos but very simple installation. Just put some paper towels around MC's when you break the lines loose. And don't panic if it takes a while to bleed the brake. I personally always let it hang above the bars overnight with a zip tie loosely actuating it.


I use the Heli Bar riser with Pro Taper Raptor bars. The wiring is long enough if you re-route it but I bought a second hydraulic hose extension from Heli Bars ($30) for the clutch hose. All is well.
I would have done the same had I known. I'll be replacing my lines in a few seasons with longer ones anyway (or when the rotors wear out).

Thanks for starting this thread it will likely be very helpful for me. The stock bars would most likely be fine for me but both of my wrists are messed up from my last deer accident 4 years ago, I used to think with time my wrists would improve but it actually seems more like they are getting worse. Risers that are a little up and back seem like what I probably need. Like most motorcycle parts prices they seem pretty high but I very likely will be buying a set one of these days.
I too have a bad wrist and the Helibars help immensely!

Handlebar Risers might cause issues with my Tankbag ?
I had the Factory Yamaha tank bag and the bars did hit at full lock but did not impede turning. The control buttons just graze the bag but are not effected either.

I've run ROX risers on both Gen I and II. The Gen II has the 2" risers that rotate. They give you a lot more flexibility in your position than the Helibar risers, but both do a good job. No need for me on longer lines, just followed the AltRider modification video to give a little more relaxed lines. Easy to do.

The OP asked about risers and rides a 2018 from the sig line. For anyone reading this thread, remember that Gen I (2010-1013), risers do not fit Gen II (2014-0n). They can be bolted up, but don't fit quite right and are not as secure as you really want them. Get the correct style for your year of bike.
Good tip Eric. And yes personal preference on which ones to use. Reason I went with Helibar Risers is because it's what most of my riding buddy's have used over the years. And the engineers actually ride, test, and retest, to get the perfect fit. I will tell you I was worried about the handlebar bend on the Super Tenere. It has a lot of sweep. I have to remind myself I'm not going to be standing up on this bike for long periods like my dirt bike. So between the bar bend and risers it is really comfortable. No more numb hands!!

I have just enough room to clear everything at full lock
IMG-0389.JPG
Here is a reference where to put your added brake line and index your clutch on MC
IMG-0387.JPG IMG-0388.JPG

To get extra length out of the clutch line you simply unbolt the tab from the frame and zip tie it a little forward
IMG-0391.JPG
 

Joker

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#24
I really appreciate everyone's comments and pictures, thank you!!! This has been very informative.
 

EricV

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#25
It's just about ergonomics. I'm tall torso'd and the risers create a more neutral riding position for me, as well as making the transition to standing more seamless.

@ballisticexchris - Helibars make a good product. On the FJR, their risers changed the sweep ever so slightly and that was just the ticket to end my numb hands and make things more neutral. The FJR had two bars, not one old school continuous bar, so easier to adjust sweep. Later models actually had OEM sweep adjustment, IIRC. Wish the S10 had that!
 

Cycledude

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RonH

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#27
The bars are already high. That's why I don't ride a roadrace replica. I will never see need for them. I actually enjoy and get a chuckle out of a lot of riser threads. One guy is 6'9" and feels with those long arms and height reach to the bars is too far, risers are needed regardless of what motorcycle is being talked about. A few days later a guy on the same bike is 5'2" and because of the short height and arms reach to the bars is too far so risers are needed. I don't get it, but add your risers if you are between 4'2"and 7'2" regardless of motorcycle in question. They all need them. All motorcycles are built exactly 2" too low in the bars. :)
 

gv550

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holligl

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#29
I'm using the simple risers made in Turkey and sold on eBay. Inexpensive and works great with stock hoses and cables and wires. View attachment 56559
Mine are similar (30mm). Got mine used so not sure where they were made. Cables and OEM tank bag just clear. Better riding standing and less prone to have that pain between the shoulders.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

gmillerjr

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#31
I have rox with stock lines and handlebars. Like people have said, the lines feel snug but with a few simple mods they aren't too snug. I'm 6'2 and the extra 2" made a huge difference in comfort level. I have the pivot risers that give me a little more adjustment.
 

beastie

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#32
Running SW Motech up and back risers with MT-09 bars,the original bars created pain between my shoulder blades. No need to lengthen any lines and way more comfort whether sitting or standing.
 

Joker

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#34
I'm hoping to keep original bars as I like the wide feel. I go back and forth on Rox 2", a straight rise or helibars. I would like to find something with no modifications with cables or lines preferably.
 

jbrown

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#35
The raptor bars many are talking about are about the same width as the stock bars. But the angle is different. I'd never experienced any shoulder pain riding bikes before the Tenere. But a half hour to an hour on the Tenere was enough to start my shoulders aching. The bar change got rid of that completely.
 

Cycledude

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#36
Little things can make a big difference. A few weeks ago on our Colorado trip a couple of us swapped seats for awhile, one of the seats I tried was Seat Concepts, it sat considerably higher than my Corbin so I kinda liked how my knees were not bent quite as far. A few days After getting home from Colorado I changed my Corbin to the high position and went on a 300 mile ride to pick up some parts, well I thought I felt pretty good raised up but the next day when I went for another ride I noticed pretty quick that my wrists and neck were hurting more than normal so after about 20 miles I stopped and put the seat back in the low position, the low position is definitely less painful for my neck and wrists than the high position. That’s why I have been considering trying to change something.
 
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