What you did to your Tenere today??!!

twinrider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
1,882
Location
Yokohama
Replaced my notched steering head bearings today. Upper one looked OK, but the lower race had visible notches, several of which I could feel with my fingernail. It was a bit of a bear getting the lower roller bearing off of the steering stem, but a chisel I made in 9th grade metal shop saved the day! Got the bike mostly reassembled but will finish up tomorrow. Steering feels smooth as glass now.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
How hard was that job? My dealer is quoting me 3 hours.
 

Boris

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Messages
2,051
Location
midlands. UK
How hard was that job? My dealer is quoting me 3 hours.
I just changed mine, last week. I’d say 3 hours in a workshop is a fair time.

Front end, including forks and a few minor bits out. Handlebars and top yoke moved out of the way. Lower yoke out, old outer races removed and replaced. The bearing on the bottom of the yoke stem is the hassle, can be a PITA to remove and then refit the new part. Once done the whole lot has to be reassembled.

I’m no mechanic, but am okay with home maintenance. It was all pretty straightforward, without any problems along the way. I did however pass the lower bearing removal job to someone more capable and with a wider range of tools.

More info here -


If you decide to do it yourself, you need a particular C Spanner that you can pick up on eBay for a few £/$/€ and a torque wrench that goes up to 130NM. I recently posted all the relevant torque figures, just search my posts.
 
Last edited:

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,516
Location
Ventura, CA
How hard was that job? My dealer is quoting me 3 hours.
Not too hard. 3 hours sounds reasonable. It took me a bit longer to get the lower stem bearing off as that was the most difficult bit. With specialized tools this would be easier/faster. I found driving the new lower race into the head stock somewhat awkward as you need a fairly heavy blow and swinging upward from below was not very ergonomic for me. I initially got it cocked slightly and had to drive it part way back out to even it up. disassembly and reassembly are straightforward. If you have the shop do it, inspect all the little details to make sure it's completed correctly.
 

pooh and xtine

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
288
Location
UK
Remapped mine using Dynojet’s newly launched Power Vision 3 for the Gen 2 ST. It allows you to load map files via the OBD2 port beside the accessory power lead next to the battery. The tuning software lets you change all of the ecu parameters such as fuel and ignition maps for each cylinder and each gear, adaptation tables, throttle maps, fuel deceleration cut, fan temperature, ais, o2 sensors, etc. You can develop and load multiple maps into the PV3 unit and flash them on the bike, read and clear fault codes, monitor various parameters (with the unit attached to the bars as you ride) and flash back to stock whenever you want. It’s a great bit of kit for anyone who likes tinkering.

Excellent support from Richard at Dynojet UK who provided an awesome map and answered all my questions very promptly.
 

twinrider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
1,882
Location
Yokohama
Thanks for the info. Will give the mechanic at my YSP shop the green light. They’re really well trained with loads of experience so it’ll be in good hands.
 

fac191

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
2,829
Location
London
Remapped mine using Dynojet’s newly launched Power Vision 3 for the Gen 2 ST. It allows you to load map files via the OBD2 port beside the accessory power lead next to the battery. The tuning software lets you change all of the ecu parameters such as fuel and ignition maps for each cylinder and each gear, adaptation tables, throttle maps, fuel deceleration cut, fan temperature, ais, o2 sensors, etc. You can develop and load multiple maps into the PV3 unit and flash them on the bike, read and clear fault codes, monitor various parameters (with the unit attached to the bars as you ride) and flash back to stock whenever you want. It’s a great bit of kit for anyone who likes tinkering.

Excellent support from Richard at Dynojet UK who provided an awesome map and answered all my questions very promptly.
Nice, how much ?
 

pooh and xtine

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
288
Location
UK
It costs too much, especially compared with the price in the US and I guess you pay for being an early adopter….(£439), but there’s nothing else as easy to get full access to all the ecu calibration. The ftecu or woolich racing kits require plugging wires and terminal pins into the ecu plugs. You have to be interested in mucking about with stuff. For example, it’s fascinating how the throttle maps differ between low gears and high gears, but you can define which gears are “high” (or you can make the low or high gears more or less aggressive). You can also spice up touring mode if you feel it’s a bit too unresponsive.

Of course, you’re paying for the first rate support as well, and Richard’s map for mine with Arrow headers is a hoot. I’ve had a fuel only remap with linear throttle mapping on a previous ST which was a great improvement, but this includes some mild timing advance and it flies!
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,212
Location
IL/AZ
Retired my weak SWM skid plate. Replaced it with a well used Jaxon RideOnAdv plate.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

elricfate

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
380
Location
Ohio
It costs too much, especially compared with the price in the US and I guess you pay for being an early adopter….(£439), but there’s nothing else as easy to get full access to all the ecu calibration. The ftecu or woolich racing kits require plugging wires and terminal pins into the ecu plugs. You have to be interested in mucking about with stuff. For example, it’s fascinating how the throttle maps differ between low gears and high gears, but you can define which gears are “high” (or you can make the low or high gears more or less aggressive). You can also spice up touring mode if you feel it’s a bit too unresponsive.

Of course, you’re paying for the first rate support as well, and Richard’s map for mine with Arrow headers is a hoot. I’ve had a fuel only remap with linear throttle mapping on a previous ST which was a great improvement, but this includes some mild timing advance and it flies!
Yea, but I thought about getting one from 5Star just so I wouldn't have to tear out my ECU and send it to someone when I wanted it reflashed. To me it's worth the extra premium to be able to change it on the fly as well.
 

fac191

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
2,829
Location
London
It costs too much, especially compared with the price in the US and I guess you pay for being an early adopter….(£439), but there’s nothing else as easy to get full access to all the ecu calibration. The ftecu or woolich racing kits require plugging wires and terminal pins into the ecu plugs. You have to be interested in mucking about with stuff. For example, it’s fascinating how the throttle maps differ between low gears and high gears, but you can define which gears are “high” (or you can make the low or high gears more or less aggressive). You can also spice up touring mode if you feel it’s a bit too unresponsive.

Of course, you’re paying for the first rate support as well, and Richard’s map for mine with Arrow headers is a hoot. I’ve had a fuel only remap with linear throttle mapping on a previous ST which was a great improvement, but this includes some mild timing advance and it flies!
Nice, sounds like a Great great bit of kit.
 

NJGreg

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2021
Messages
56
Location
South Jersey
Started off the day with a ride to motor vehicles to get my tag and title work done. Of course I had to do a test ride to check out the new license plate. Came home from that and had a skid plate from trex waiting for me. Figured I would do my second oil/filter final drive fluid change while it was naked.

Knocked the fluid changes out and while installing skid plate noticed a screw in my front tire, granted they're only battlewings, but damn they only got 1588 miles on them and not ready to replace just yet. Plugged up and good to go.

A set of rigid ignite lights came that I will install on the crash bars, but seems fedex was not ready to deliver the mounting brackets yet.

Oh, incase anyone notices and wonders missing pillion pegs, I got a peg lowering kit that moves them down and forward for the wife. While comfortable for her, they are in the way for me when I have to put my feet down and walk the bike backwards. So I got some spring clips that go through the original peg pins and I just remove them when she is not with me. Can put them on or take them off in seconds.

IMG_0200.JPG
 
Last edited:

Sierra1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
14,819
Location
Joshua TX
"only battlewings" ?
I'd go back to them in a heartbeat. They were the widest tire I've had so far. The A41r was narrower, and the StreetSmart is narrower yet. Only by millimeters, but a visible difference. Best bang for the buck.

Speaking of the Dunlops . . . . hard to put a finger on, but they feel different from the Bridgestones. Very stable. To the point that a "stronger" input is needed to change directions, and or transition. For, now, that I'm getting used to them. . . . I'm really liking them.
 
Last edited:
Top