What you did to your Tenere today??!!

Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
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Changed the front tire to my new Metzeler Karoo Street.
Checked the front spokes (no one loose)
Made sure the floating brake disc, really was floating
Lubricate the footpegs, all joints in rear suspension (yes, I know the oil might not get to where it really is needed, but it can´t be bad:)), the gearshifter and rear brake"lever"?, and clutch and front brake lever.
There was a bit of rust on the wheel axel, right between the axel and the bearing (no where else, and only about 10mm), but it means that water will get pass the sealing, I must lubricate well when I assembly again.

The was no lubrication on the bolts for the caliber and Haldex sensor, and only very little on the wheel axel.

IMG_20190112_175434602.jpg
 

MFP

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Changed the front tire to my new Metzeler Karoo Street.
Checked the front spokes (no one loose)
Made sure the floating brake disc, really was floating
Lubricate the footpegs, all joints in rear suspension (yes, I know the oil might not get to where it really is needed, but it can´t be bad:)), the gearshifter and rear brake"lever"?, and clutch and front brake lever.
There was a bit of rust on the wheel axel, right between the axel and the bearing (no where else, and only about 10mm), but it means that water will get pass the sealing, I must lubricate well when I assembly again.

The was no lubrication on the bolts for the caliber and Haldex sensor, and only very little on the wheel axel.

View attachment 51866
Make sure your newly installed Metz tire is mounted going in the right direction. :cool:
 

Various

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May 21, 2018
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I greased my rear shock absorber linkage and swingarm bearings. 2012 Gen 1 with 36k miles.

No sign of grease in there so lots of rust including both swingarm bearings and 1 seized suspension linkage bearing, therefore well worth doing. I managed to save the seized bearing by taking the rollers out along with the yellow stuff, then cleaning it all and putting the rollers back in without the yellow stuff (like a normal roller bearing). If it doesn't last it hasn't cost me anything but I see no reason why it shouldn't work perfectly well.

I despair at the way that one suspension bolt can only be removed with the exhaust off, meaning that to grease that one bearing I had to remove the rear left footrest hanger, silencer, crash bar front section, engine 'spoiler' (plastic bit by the oil filter) and then the exhaust front section. Why not just have the bolts go in from the right matching the design of the swingarm pivot?

Also cleaned and greased the gear change lever and brake pedal - both needed doing.

Anyway, all done and thanks to you guys on here who pointed me in the right direction with previous posts.
 

EricV

Rumbux Importer - Riding, farkling, riding...
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I greased my rear shock absorber linkage and swingarm bearings. 2012 Gen 1 with 36k miles.
Good job on the PM. :)
I despair at the way that one suspension bolt can only be removed with the exhaust off<snip>
But you put it back in the other way so it will be easier next time, right?
 

Don in Lodi

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I greased my rear shock absorber linkage and swingarm bearings. 2012 Gen 1 with 36k miles.

No sign of grease in there so lots of rust including both swingarm bearings and 1 seized suspension linkage bearing, therefore well worth doing. I managed to save the seized bearing by taking the rollers out along with the yellow stuff, then cleaning it all and putting the rollers back in without the yellow stuff (like a normal roller bearing). If it doesn't last it hasn't cost me anything but I see no reason why it shouldn't work perfectly well.

I despair at the way that one suspension bolt can only be removed with the exhaust off, meaning that to grease that one bearing I had to remove the rear left footrest hanger, silencer, crash bar front section, engine 'spoiler' (plastic bit by the oil filter) and then the exhaust front section. Why not just have the bolts go in from the right matching the design of the swingarm pivot?

Also cleaned and greased the gear change lever and brake pedal - both needed doing.

Anyway, all done and thanks to you guys on here who pointed me in the right direction with previous posts.
The yellow stuff is the lubricant.
 

Various

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May 21, 2018
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UK
Good job on the PM. :)

But you put it back in the other way so it will be easier next time, right?

You can probably guess that I didn't! I did at first, but changed it back because I couldn't face taking it apart again later if there was a problem putting the exhaust on. I suppose I was being lazy. I now don't think there would be a problem, so next time it will be assembled how I'd like it (because I'm more familiar with the bike).
 

Boris

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midlands. UK
Not today, but added these very small but very bright lights to the underside of the handguards which I use in town or when filtering. Note, my intention was to be more visible, not to see more with. The light units are about the size of half a little finger.
FFE70194-3395-4FE3-9D84-0DDDD1187416.jpeg
 
Last edited:

SHUMBA

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Not today, but added these very small but very bright lights to the underside of the handguards which I use in town or when filtering. Note, my intention was to be more visible, not to see more with.
View attachment 51919
You must be somewhere in Europe. The only state that I am aware of that permits lane spitting is California.
Don't try splitting in Canada.
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

Boris

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You must be somewhere in Europe. The only state that I am aware of that permits lane spitting is California.
Don't try splitting in Canada.
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
Yes, am in England. Lane splitting is fine across most of Europe, although I did once get told off by a policeman in Germany, for lane splitting.
 
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