What you did to your Tenere today??!!

EricV

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I've recently fitted a pair of twin tone horns. Much louder than stock and fitted them to the factory crash bars. I had a set of these on my Strom after the Denali Soundbomb decided it didn't want to play at being a horn anymore. Less than £10 on eBay. They don't interfere with the steering at full compression and the sound projects forward, rather than downwards like the stock horn.
Looks very nice Paul. Watch out after the rainy season for water getting inside the horn and seizing them up. A shot of ACF50 now or WD40 later will help avoid those nice horns becoming a mere tweet of their former selves.
 

EricV

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<snip> my wife talked me into making him a little bit different and be honest I'm glad they did.
That looks Great! You have the one of two existing sets of Red Rumbux bars that I am aware of. I used to offer custom colors and did a red set for another 2015 Super Tenere owner.
 

Xclimation

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He is 6-6 or 6-7. I can still kick his ass though. I think. Maybe.
Thank goodness! I saw that picture and thought he makes the S10 look like a toy!
Funny thing...I told my boys when they were young..."I don't care how big you get or how bad you think you get, I'll ALWAYS be able to take you!
They are full grown (25 and 23 years old) and I'm taller than them, but was bigger than them back-in-the-day....And definitely badder than them!!!
 

dannyv

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That looks Great! You have the one of two existing sets of Red Rumbux bars that I am aware of. I used to offer custom colors and did a red set for another 2015 Super Tenere owner.
Has me thinking about getting mine painted blue before I bolt them on. Wonder where I could get that done....
 

EricV

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Has me thinking about getting mine painted blue before I bolt them on. Wonder where I could get that done....
Check your local powder coaters. The Rumbux bars are e-coated under the powder coating, so you would lose that benefit if you had them stripped and re-powder coated in another color. The e-coat prevents rust from migrating under the powder coating should you get a scratch down to bare metal.

Every brand does things their own way. Typically powder coaters will have a minimum fee. Some will charge you less if you want a color they run on a regular basis. White typically costs more, because they have to clean out everything very, very well, to avoid contamination. It usually cost me around $150-200 do powder coat a set of Full Spec bars. I used to get them in e-coat only for the custom colors. I've not paid for an e-coat, then powder coat on a set, but it would certainly cost more than just powder coating.
 

NewAdvRider

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tested my battlewings and Rumbux on some nice slippery Mud. down once, Totally no issue, yes she's Heavy but Not That Bad. battlewings let you go SideWays for as just about as long as you want. when she lays on her side the Rumbux Reduces the LiftDistance by at least 30%, easier to lift than my VFR i Think.
 

Xclimation

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If you decide to rattle can your rumbux crash bars.....get some 000 steel wool go over every single crevice...then make sure to get any dust off. Wipe down a clothe slightly dampened with acetone. Then what I did, take a metal S hook and hang from a clothes line. Lightly coat with rustoleum univeral bonding primer. Wait about 10 minutes then another coat. Another 10 minutes then another coat. Go very light on these coats make sure you are constantly moving the spray can. Check EVERY inch because just when you thought you got everywhere...you missed a spot. Especially at intersections and by mounting tabs.
Wait 30 minutes after last coat of primer, then add the color. This is what I used. The Blue looks pretty close to the lighter blue S10s maybe test some before applying to see how it matches. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/metallic/. Do the cycle of light coats, then recoat for 3 or 4 coats. Wait about 30 minutes then get a gloss or semi-gloss clear coat. Doing the same cycle of light coats. There are SEVERAL options of clear coats.
Don't do this unless you are in a place that is above 70F. The paint creates a lot of dust if you do it indoors. Wait about 4 days before mounting to your bike. When mounting be careful! I scrapped mine because the paint wasn't fully cured. I waited 2 days, this is why I recommend 4 days.
 

Nikolajsen

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Changed the front tire to my new Metzeler Karoo Street.
Checked the front spokes (no one loose)
Made sure the floating brake disc, really was floating
Lubricate the footpegs, all joints in rear suspension (yes, I know the oil might not get to where it really is needed, but it can´t be bad:)), the gearshifter and rear brake"lever"?, and clutch and front brake lever.
There was a bit of rust on the wheel axel, right between the axel and the bearing (no where else, and only about 10mm), but it means that water will get pass the sealing, I must lubricate well when I assembly again.

The was no lubrication on the bolts for the caliber and Haldex sensor, and only very little on the wheel axel.

IMG_20190112_175434602.jpg
 

MFP

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Changed the front tire to my new Metzeler Karoo Street.
Checked the front spokes (no one loose)
Made sure the floating brake disc, really was floating
Lubricate the footpegs, all joints in rear suspension (yes, I know the oil might not get to where it really is needed, but it can´t be bad:)), the gearshifter and rear brake"lever"?, and clutch and front brake lever.
There was a bit of rust on the wheel axel, right between the axel and the bearing (no where else, and only about 10mm), but it means that water will get pass the sealing, I must lubricate well when I assembly again.

The was no lubrication on the bolts for the caliber and Haldex sensor, and only very little on the wheel axel.

View attachment 51866
Make sure your newly installed Metz tire is mounted going in the right direction. :cool:
 

Nikolajsen

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Yes, sure I did think of this. But thought "why only a few tires like this".
But of course, it depends on the tread...
 

Various

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I greased my rear shock absorber linkage and swingarm bearings. 2012 Gen 1 with 36k miles.

No sign of grease in there so lots of rust including both swingarm bearings and 1 seized suspension linkage bearing, therefore well worth doing. I managed to save the seized bearing by taking the rollers out along with the yellow stuff, then cleaning it all and putting the rollers back in without the yellow stuff (like a normal roller bearing). If it doesn't last it hasn't cost me anything but I see no reason why it shouldn't work perfectly well.

I despair at the way that one suspension bolt can only be removed with the exhaust off, meaning that to grease that one bearing I had to remove the rear left footrest hanger, silencer, crash bar front section, engine 'spoiler' (plastic bit by the oil filter) and then the exhaust front section. Why not just have the bolts go in from the right matching the design of the swingarm pivot?

Also cleaned and greased the gear change lever and brake pedal - both needed doing.

Anyway, all done and thanks to you guys on here who pointed me in the right direction with previous posts.
 

EricV

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I greased my rear shock absorber linkage and swingarm bearings. 2012 Gen 1 with 36k miles.
Good job on the PM. :)
I despair at the way that one suspension bolt can only be removed with the exhaust off<snip>
But you put it back in the other way so it will be easier next time, right?
 

Don in Lodi

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I greased my rear shock absorber linkage and swingarm bearings. 2012 Gen 1 with 36k miles.

No sign of grease in there so lots of rust including both swingarm bearings and 1 seized suspension linkage bearing, therefore well worth doing. I managed to save the seized bearing by taking the rollers out along with the yellow stuff, then cleaning it all and putting the rollers back in without the yellow stuff (like a normal roller bearing). If it doesn't last it hasn't cost me anything but I see no reason why it shouldn't work perfectly well.

I despair at the way that one suspension bolt can only be removed with the exhaust off, meaning that to grease that one bearing I had to remove the rear left footrest hanger, silencer, crash bar front section, engine 'spoiler' (plastic bit by the oil filter) and then the exhaust front section. Why not just have the bolts go in from the right matching the design of the swingarm pivot?

Also cleaned and greased the gear change lever and brake pedal - both needed doing.

Anyway, all done and thanks to you guys on here who pointed me in the right direction with previous posts.
The yellow stuff is the lubricant.
 
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