Changed the CCT to a manual one. Engine sounds really smoo
th now. Hopefully a couple of pics attached here. You may be able to see how I zip tied the chain to keep it under tension and I also used a socket to wedge the camchain slider in position whilst removing the old CCT and fitting the new manual one. Easy job and all went well
A few months ago I bought a set of Rumbux crash bars from a fellow inmate here who got into an accident. I'm fully convinced these Rumbux crash bars either save this person's life or save them further injury! I had to do some work on them I had to heat them up with my torch bend them... fit them to the bike let him cool off over and over again till I got them right then I brought them down to bare metal, primed, painted them. Believe it or not everything in the paint was from a rattle can Rust-Oleum and Rust-Oleum metallic in the red color matches the red of my bike just about perfect on other parts such as the altrider luggage rack I painted that with the metallic but black and it matches on the Matte Black Metallic side cowlings absolutely perfect if anybody was thinking about painting any parts. On the metallic Parts I put a matte clear coat on there and on the red Parts I put a semi gloss clear coat. Finally got around to mounting them I scraped them a little bit... paint wasn't fully cured had only been curing for a 48 hours but I wanted to get them on the bike to allow the paint to cure while they are mounted. you do have to manipulate them a little bit whether you got them wrecked or brand new no big dealio... all
crash bars are this way.
More views I was just going to paint the crash bars with the Matte Black Metallic like on the lower side cowlings but a combination of a couple other members with the color crash bars and my wife talked me into making him a little bit different and be honest I'm glad they did.
I've recently fitted a pair of twin tone horns. Much louder than stock and fitted them to the factory crash bars. I had a set of these on my Strom after the Denali Soundbomb decided it didn't want to play at being a horn anymore. Less than £10 on eBay. They don't interfere with the steering at full compression and the sound projects forward, rather than downwards like the stock horn.
Looks very nice Paul. Watch out after the rainy season for water getting inside the horn and seizing them up. A shot of ACF50 now or WD40 later will help avoid those nice horns becoming a mere tweet of their former selves.
Thank goodness! I saw that picture and thought he makes the S10 look like a toy!
Funny thing...I told my boys when they were young..."I don't care how big you get or how bad you think you get, I'll ALWAYS be able to take you!
They are full grown (25 and 23 years old) and I'm taller than them, but was bigger than them back-in-the-day....And definitely badder than them!!!
Check your local powder coaters. The Rumbux bars are e-coated under the powder coating, so you would lose that benefit if you had them stripped and re-powder coated in another color. The e-coat prevents rust from migrating under the powder coating should you get a scratch down to bare metal.
Every brand does things their own way. Typically powder coaters will have a minimum fee. Some will charge you less if you want a color they run on a regular basis. White typically costs more, because they have to clean out everything very, very well, to avoid contamination. It usually cost me around $150-200 do powder coat a set of Full Spec bars. I used to get them in e-coat only for the custom colors. I've not paid for an e-coat, then powder coat on a set, but it would certainly cost more than just powder coating.
tested my battlewings and Rumbux on some nice slippery Mud. down once, Totally no issue, yes she's Heavy but Not That Bad. battlewings let you go SideWays for as just about as long as you want. when she lays on her side the Rumbux Reduces the LiftDistance by at least 30%, easier to lift than my VFR i Think.
If you decide to rattle can your rumbux crash bars.....get some 000 steel wool go over every single crevice...then make sure to get any dust off. Wipe down a clothe slightly dampened with acetone. Then what I did, take a metal S hook and hang from a clothes line. Lightly coat with rustoleum univeral bonding primer. Wait about 10 minutes then another coat. Another 10 minutes then another coat. Go very light on these coats make sure you are constantly moving the spray can. Check EVERY inch because just when you thought you got everywhere...you missed a spot. Especially at intersections and by mounting tabs.
Wait 30 minutes after last coat of primer, then add the color. This is what I used. The Blue looks pretty close to the lighter blue S10s maybe test some before applying to see how it matches. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/metallic/. Do the cycle of light coats, then recoat for 3 or 4 coats. Wait about 30 minutes then get a gloss or semi-gloss clear coat. Doing the same cycle of light coats. There are SEVERAL options of clear coats.
Don't do this unless you are in a place that is above 70F. The paint creates a lot of dust if you do it indoors. Wait about 4 days before mounting to your bike. When mounting be careful! I scrapped mine because the paint wasn't fully cured. I waited 2 days, this is why I recommend 4 days.
Changed the front tire to my new Metzeler Karoo Street.
Checked the front spokes (no one loose)
Made sure the floating brake disc, really was floating
Lubricate the footpegs, all joints in rear suspension (yes, I know the oil might not get to where it really is needed, but it can´t be bad), the gearshifter and rear brake"lever"?, and clutch and front brake lever.
There was a bit of rust on the wheel axel, right between the axel and the bearing (no where else, and only about 10mm), but it means that water will get pass the sealing, I must lubricate well when I assembly again.
The was no lubrication on the bolts for the caliber and Haldex sensor, and only very little on the wheel axel.